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Favourite Welsh Handholds?? (Read 4270 times)

Fiend

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Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 04:37:41 pm
Because it is such a good potential discussion.

Blocs only please. And anyone who mentions the slot on The Edge Problem is barred for life, you disgusting animal(s). Same goes for The Cave.


Slopers on Riley's Arete - as good as grit if not better.

Crimps on Ultimate Warrior Stand - the perfect board problem for punters.

Weird micro-divot + sloper crimp stack "thing" on NASA - man that takes some working out and subtlety.

The slots on Supercrack - are they pockets or fingerjams?? Who knows, they're bloody good though.

Left hand sloper sidepull on Ribcrackin' - just doesn't seem good enough to work as a hold, all about the position.




Hoseyb

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#1 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 05:07:20 pm
The 4 ft of lip following the crack on Higgs Traverse. Perfectly clean rounded slopeyness with a delightful texture.

Ross Barker

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#2 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 06:06:12 pm
The undercut on The Severed Ear at Manor Crag.

The weird pinchy shard on Ping at Milestone Buttress.

The double-pocket-pinch-thing on The Wolf above Wavelength. If the topout ever gets cleaned let me know as it's a sweet problem!

The square nubs on Killerweed at Wavelength too.

petejh

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#3 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 09:15:25 pm
I know you said blocs only but you're going to have to accept the backhand guppy on the upper half of A Skip of Fools, on The Diamond. The guidebook says it's the best hold in Wales so it must be true.

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#4 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 09:49:06 pm
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

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#5 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 10:00:08 pm
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.

Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.

bolehillbilly

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#6 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 06, 2022, 10:01:01 pm
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.

Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.

mr chaz

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#7 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 08:41:10 am
The pinch at sheep pen and the golf ball on King of Drunks both spring to mind

sxrxg

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#8 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 09:08:25 am
The stuck on bits on popcorn party also spring to mind as memorable holds. I wouldn't call them nice though...

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#9 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 09:27:35 am
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.

Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.

Not Wales again but speaking of undercut guppies the keel hold is pretty good!

danm

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#10 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 10:49:40 am
The small pocket/mono hold on Wizard Crack and Psychobilly. I always feel like I'm going to damage my arthritic old fingers using these but never do and they are both surprisingly good holds to boot.

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#11 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 12:52:45 pm
Haven't bouldered much in Wales but did think the starting pinch on Emyrs Arete was pretty cool, lovely width for a pinch and fully quartz

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#12 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 07, 2022, 01:12:41 pm
The pinch on Smoke a Bloke and the slopey rail on Special K are the first things I thought of also the LH slot on Diesel Power because it's so ratty

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#13 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
May 10, 2022, 02:08:27 am
The mono pocket / thread that you shakeout at when you get to the headwall on Face Race 7a+ at LPT :punk:

CJD

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#14 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 12, 2022, 02:03:08 pm
Most of the holds on Eat the Meek, PYB boulder.  Unreal texture.

Ru

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#15 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 12, 2022, 09:32:59 pm
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

Percy was probably the first person I heard using it, which was a long time before I heard anyone else use it (with the exception of people that climbed a lot with Percy) so I'm guessing either he invented it, or he was only one or two degrees off the person that did (in the Kevin Bacon sense).

Fiend

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#16 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 12, 2022, 09:39:55 pm
Most of the holds on Eat the Meek, PYB boulder.  Unreal texture.
Good shout with that boulder's texture!

Grady

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#17 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 13, 2022, 10:11:39 pm
The finger/knuckle jam on Bus Stop Right. More interesting than a crimp and as good as a jug if your fingers fit it as well as mine.

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#18 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 13, 2022, 10:26:25 pm
What's the history of the "Guppy"?

Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?

Iove a good guppy!

Percy was probably the first person I heard using it, which was a long time before I heard anyone else use it (with the exception of people that climbed a lot with Percy) so I'm guessing either he invented it, or he was only one or two degrees off the person that did (in the Kevin Bacon sense).
I was wondering about this the other day as it seems less logical than the American "meat hook"

SA Chris

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#19 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 13, 2022, 11:31:20 pm
It's common slang for hands or fists, not just restricted to climbing.

https://www.yourdictionary.com/meat-hook

Carliios

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#20 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 14, 2022, 07:24:58 am
Again, not wales but the crimp on sausage king is mega ergonomic

Fiend

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#21 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 14, 2022, 09:41:09 am
 :off: :offtopic: :chair:

JohnM

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#22 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 14, 2022, 09:50:21 am
Back on topic: I am going to be bias and say the sloper on my own problem "Prisoners of the Sun".



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vswRtj_WTkpi_1OEgpdEiVtRSTLpirv9/view?usp=sharing

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#23 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 14, 2022, 11:02:45 am
I can second that one, one of my favourite problems in the pass!

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#24 Re: Favourite Welsh Handholds??
June 14, 2022, 12:08:42 pm
There's a lovely sloper on Arse Soul in the pass, and the vertical rail on Wavelength is beautifully textured. There is also a perfect sloping sidepull which looks like it has been carved out of an otherwise blank bit of wall on Big Red Button in Tan y Grisiau which always pleases me.

 

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