[mark20]

The day after a hard board session I noticed RH middle finger PIP joint was slightly swollen and stiff. After about 6 weeks of avoiding anything too crimpy, and plenty of massage etc, I'm not noticing any improvement.
I can usually make a fist with each finger, touching the part of the palm closest to the finger, but can't quite do it on this finger now. After a good bit of massaging (and sometimes a satisfying 'click') the stiffness eases off and I can get full range of motion again. But it's stiff and slightly swollen again the next morning.

I haven't noticed any loss of strength or pain, but I'm quite nervous of pulling hard on it. A couple of people I've spoken to said this is quite common for them after a lot of crimping and they just climb as normal.

So should I just be climbing as normal and put it down as just another slightly creaky part of my body, or should I be resting for a few weeks completely and trying to get it back to normal? Any experiences much appreciated

Thanks

[M1V0]

Sounds like a classic case of tenosynovitis. I've had this for several years, fingers hasn't been able to touch the palm for about as long. I've not found anything to resolve this, but other forums have suggested finger rolls with dumbbells have helped. Rest doesn't seem to help too much, as it just comes back.

I understand that openhanding holds is a way to help reduce the strain and has previously helped get rid of my tenosynovitis (so a week in Font climbing easy circuits technically counts as therapy). It only removed the problem for a month or two before it came back.

I've been successful in reducing the swelling by wrapping a 1cm wide strip of athletic tape (the stretchy stuff, not climbing tape) over the joint and leaving it for a few hours, but it always returns. Should probably combine this with something else too. Like a real warmup for the fingers.

[Fiend]

Be like Barrows and take up sewing then do F8c roof first ascents 

[mrjonathanr]

Be like Barrows

Adopted a new motto Fiend?

[Fiend]

I'm not doing any bloody sewing!!

(Nor F8c ever, for that matter)