[Wellsy]

Knee Club

Monday - font 3-4 climbing at the wall. Made my knee worse. Decided to sack that off for now.

Tuesday - 3 x 8 V pullups.

Wednesday - bench 5x5 at 65, 70, 75, 70, 65. Personal best! Max hangs on 20mm working up to 10 seconds at 30kgs added weight. 3 x 8 overhead dumbbell press at 15 kgs per arm.

Thursday - 3 x 8 V pullups. Really liking these at the moment

Friday - rest

Saturday - 3 x 5 weighted pullups at 20kgs added weight

Sunday - 5 x 5 bench at 60, 70, 75, 75, 70. Overhead barbell strict press 3 x 5 at 40, 40, 40. Rack pulls 3 x 10 at 70 for kneehab, weight is low but definitely working on that specific weakness. Box squats 3 x 10. Fingerboard 20mm edge, 8 x 10 seconds, 25, 25, 30, 30, 30, 30, 25, 25

Knee all over the place this week but feeling better now, stretches and such every day for mobility. 75kgs PB on bench very welcome, 5 x bodyweight is a cool little milestone.

[Duma]

M - 12 hr night shift.
T - 12 hr night shift.
W - TCA, only had 45 min before work but nice to do something at least. Managed a few of the black set (6C-7A+?). 12 hr night shift.
T - 12 hr night shift.
F -  TCA, short session but managed a few more blacks. Still feeling foggy from nights.
S - free day, perfect connies, but no one interested in anywhere but Brean. Couldn't face it after last week so sulked and went for a bike ride with gf. Nice meal out in the eve, drank too much.
S - another perfect day, mate keen for cheddar but I was on dad duty. Fucks sake.

71.5 kg

Pissed off I didn't manage to get out this weekend, work and parenting for the Easter hols now so no more chances for the next fortnight.

[Duma]

75kgs PB on bench very welcome, 5 x bodyweight is a cool little milestone.

Nice work on the PB Wellsy, but I'm pretty sure you don't weigh 15kg, so what does this mean?

[Wellsy]

5 reps of 75kgs which is my bodyweight, sorry not clear there

[Duma]

Ah ok! Makes more sense!

[duncan]

Wellsy, up and down is normal in any recovery. Are you doing any knee exercises? At the very least you should be easing into some squats.


M - Shoulder conditioning: handstands, side planks and lock-offs at 90, 120 and 150 degrees elbow bend. Westway ‘aerocap’: 4 x 10 mins of 5c-6a.
T - Walked 10km
W - Fingerboard: usual 4 finger half-crimp down to 15mm; also tried 3 finger drag down to 15mm. Could barely hold this, a good short-term goal.
T - Walked 7km.
F - Shoulder conditioning. Fingerboard warm-up. Westway bouldering. The current setting is really dislikable: horrible holds, high cruxes setting you up for an awkward landing. I tweaked a finger early in the session so bailed.
S - Fingerboard, 15mm edge 3 finger crimp and drag left hand only. Walked 14km.
S  - Fingerboard, as above. Shoulder conditioning. Walked 10km.

Up and down week. Offspring off school, a non-covid cold, and mixed forecasts so not syked to leave London. Short and longer-term sport climbing targets both feature three finger small edges so have decided to check my ego and try to up my three finger crimping.

Westway boulder setting strikes again. The overhanging autobelay routes are great at the moment, so I’m not sure what’s going on there.

Four days in Pembroke for Easter, 6 months since I last placed a wire (when I backed off an E2 I’d soloed in a previous life) so not expecting too much.  There will be good company so with some half-decent weather and assuming the tweak settles I’m sure it will be a lot of fun. 

[Wellsy]

@Duncan the Rack Pulls and box squats are stuff the physio has given me (and I will be doing increasingly more of them), but I'm doing mobility work and things like one legged kettlebell pickups and leg raises which I haven't listed as would take too long. But yes I'm doing the physio exercises a lot

[Will Hunt]

M - board sesh with #sammarks

Sa - Malham. Put clips in Wasted Youth then finished that off. Upstairs and tried Free and Easy again. Listened to Dave's beta (again) for the crux and tried to make it work to no avail and much swearing - the same result as last time. Came back to the ledge. Later went out again and tried something different and did the crux no problem twice on the trot. Went to the top and feel like this needs work before I try and redpoint - that's a job for after Font.

[shark]

Thanks Wellsy


11.6-8 Average 161.2 up 0.1lb

M. Eve Bar warm up Set of recruitment and speed pulls Foot on campus 5 sets. Below expectation but at least my knuckles didn’t swell up this time

T. Mobility/Core

W.

T. Gashed a knuckle quite deep on a tin lid evening before. Toyed with giving climbing a miss but finger was okish on Fb  warm up. Went to Tor. Weather was windy and rainy - much worse than forercast. Finger was tender and not great to climb on and I was anxious about it getting infected. Just focused on cross thru move. Got some alternative beta off Dave H using a funky left toe hook and got it to work once by but using a slightly different right toe to him. Might be the way and toe hook strength potentially trainable but still not easy. Look forward to experimenting with it some more.

F.

S. Mobility/Core. Weighted foot lifts!

S. Eve Deferred going to LPT because of tomorrow’s forecast. Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Foot on campusing. Similar scores to Monday

Lacking motivation/direction. Finger cut still weepy especially when I flex  or load it but it isn’t swollen or especially painful and doesn’t look infected. Lower back has felt sore this week. Thought I was losing weight but it all piled back on yesterday for no apparent reason. Had intended going over to LPT tomorrow but forecast locked iffy so going later in the week.

[Aussiegav]

Knee club.
Sorry to hear about the knee woes Wellsy. Have you tried easy arc sessions instead??

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
Went to Awesome Walls after work.

Week 6 of the programme- 4x 10s hangs
Did 3x10s hangs BW plus 10kg. Felt tough this time, dropped to 7.5kg for the last one.

Capacity Power session
Back to back routes. Did a 4 to loosen /warm up then doubles on 5c, 5a, 5b then 6a +. Had to use different feet for the 6a+ one one section due to the knee.
Felt tired this session

Wednesday - Rest day


Thursday - rest day.
Had my MRI in the evening. Have to wait till the specialist contacts me.

Friday
Felt tired but psyched my self up for a session of 10s hangs.

A few crimp curls with 12.7kg.
20s hangs with 20kg assistance
30s hangs with 20kg assistance.
10s Hangs
1x BW + 2.5kg
1x BW + 4kg
4x BW + 7.5kg
Didn’t manage 10kg but TBH, my heart was never in it.



Saturday -

Conditioning – 2min rests between reps

Australian pull ups on Rings with feet on a bench
3 sets of 8

Bench Press
1set of 8 50kg
4 sets of 4 70kg

Seated overhead press
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 35kg

Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 10kg

Single Arm Preacher Curls
3sets of 8 10kg

Single Forearm rotation
3sets of 5 with 2.5kg.


Sunday -
Mid morning session at the School
Limit session.
Able to do carefully selected problems on the 40degree board. Managed some 6a+ and then did limit moves that didn’t cause discomfort.
Pleased with quality of session and still able to enjoy everything.
Hope to get a appointment with the knee specialist in the next week or one after.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, nearly did a problem that was meant to be a warm down from trying the other project and now turned into a project in its own.
Tue - garage session 3.
Wed - farmer's static holds, empty bar snatch x50. Tired.
Thu - board climbing, did the problem in good style for once. Set and tried another.
Fri - loaded carries.
Sat - TBDL 80 kg 80 reps and loaded carries in various formats.
Sun - DOMS hell. Boxing bag.

[shark]

Freedom club.

M. Acro yoga. Loads of people there and cake for us leaving. Really fun night.

T. Board session. Redid my max hang test. Got up to 173% hang (was 163% 9 weeks ago). Then had a good session after that but tweaked my finger. Seemed to be muscular though and clears up after 3 days.

W. Van jobs and then a fancy fancy 3 Michelin star meal.

T. Van jobs

F. Van jobs and then set off to Sheffield

S. Walk around Burbage and seeing friends. Board session in the evening. Feeling strong and finger was feeling good!

S. Lazy morning and trip to the spa.


We’re heading to Dover tomorrow. Psyched to be properly on the way now. Can’t wait to clip some bolts!

[JohnM]

Missed a week so 2 weeks...

28 March - 3 April

M - Endurance training on the spray wall. Tried to stay on for 5 minutes x 4 with 5 minute rests between sets. This was harder than I imagined as jugs are rare. Afternoon walk 6.76km +257m.

T - Endurance training as above + 5 x foot on campussing (2m, 1m35s, 1m, 57s, 1m) - powered out pretty quickly combined with very sore skin so the time dropped off fast! Mountain biking 27.4km +583m

W - Bouldering session on circuit boulders. Decent session managing some moves/boulders I couldn't do before despite crappy skin. Trail running 19.11km +909m.

T - Hill training following the gondola route 14.18km +1,888m.

F - Rest.

S - Drove to Osp.

S  - Climbing at Misja Pec. Amazing crag, can't believe I haven't been before. 6b+ warm up, 7b onsight and an 8a attempt(s).

4 April - 10 April

M - Climbing at Misja Pec. 8a attempt(s), 7b+ flash, 7c+ flash, trying another 8a.

T - Fly fishing. A rest day from climbing but a day walking/wading a few kilometres up and down the river continuously casting turned out to be way more exhausting than climbing!

W - Climbing at Misja Pec. 7a warm up, 7c flash, 8a (1st RP), 8a attempt, 7b+ onsight attempt fail.

T - Climbing at Misja Pec. 8a attempts, 7c+ (2nd RP).

F - Fly fishing.

S - 8a attempt - something went pop in my knee on a very deep drop knee. Did feel bad immediately after so tried an 8a+ at the other end of the crag. You don't realise how much you drop knee until you can't. Tried to get up it "front on" but gave up.

S - Knee injured so managed the short hike up to the crag to belay but not much else.

A nice trip to Osp to climb at Misja Pec which is an amazing crag and somewhere I wish I had gone sooner. After not climbing much on rock or doing consistent training this year it was nice to get the flow back a bit and flash a couple of things. I am just annoyed I wasted some many attempts trying to get up the 8a start to my mates project link up. The climbing felt relatively easy but I just couldn't get up the damn thing. To add insult to injury it wrecked my knee on the penultimate day. I am gutted to have another leg injury after only just recovering from the last one. It seems like it is just a medial collateral ligament strain so hopefully I can recover quickly. It doesn't generally hurt apart from any rotation which only seems to happen when I get out of bed!

[Rocksteady]

Sorry to see lots of knee woes on this thread.

I had a pretty directionless week: hard bouldering on Wednesday evening but only a short session. Awful on the board and sprained my neck (again). Sunday did easy bouldering with my son who had a great time.
Seem to have picked up a bit of a golfers elbow tweak on my left arm. Which is annoying as...

Looks likely I will be going to Magic Wood for the first time towards the end of May. So I'd better get on strength and power training.

[SA Chris]

(S) travel to Austria, alarm at 4:45 coach to St Anton, wander like a zombie getting things sorted. Light snow.
(S) Ski Day 1 - Had to cut morning short due to one of kids ski boots not fitting, otherwise exploring.
M - blue sky day - skied as far as Zurs, great snow, but mechanical issues on critical gondola meant a stressful bus ride and blast to get back for end of lessons
T - Light snow, windy, and rain in resort. Didn't go too far, just made the most of what we could actually see. Session at the bouldering wall, small but good setting. Skin knackered quickly.
W - blue sky and powder, some great off piste, unfortunately flicklock pole releasing in middle of offpiste meant skiing most of the day with one pole. Late afternoon slush.
T - game of 2 halves. Bluebird morning with great runs off top of mountain. Some great side piste stuff still untouched. Clouded in and light went flat just after lunch. Rain / snow late evening. Bouldering at wall with Kyle, both had good session before skin went.
F - Morning better than expected, sun out for kids races, both did well. Wind picked up by lunch, and binding broke just after, so avoided slush fest and took photos.
S - long way home.
S - Bouldered at Johnsheugh with Rankers. Did a few of the quality easier probs, and worked on the 2 7s he put up, great climbing, will go back when feeling a bit stronger and with better skin.

Recommend St Anton if anyone is going with a mixed ability party, off-piste potential is enormous, but need to be earlier in the season to avoid crap snow. Great little bouldering centre and good looking climbing wall combined with bowling and trampoline park are a bonus for something to do in evenings.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Club de Lluvia....

M: Pissing it down in Spain
T: Pissing it down in Spain
W: Pissing it down in Spain.... Oh wait! There's a break, do a shitload up to F6b.
T: Good weather at last! Not feeling it tho... Lliber - Warmup on F6a & F6b then decide I need to pull me finger out... Get on F7a+ slip off and slice a hole in me middle finger! Claret everywhere! Game over man!!
F: Pissed off climbing with a shedload of tape on (can't recall the crag) - Nowt above F6b (becoming a theme!)
S: Rather than more pissed off climbing with a shedload of tape on decide to do stuff that the GF wants to do so put clips in a load of F4's and F5's in me trainers at Guadalest.
S: Finger's on the mend, Steve Mac (who happened to be staying at me mate's place) looks at it and states that it's nothing, do a shedload up to F6c at Echo... Not setting the world alight by any stretch of the imagination but once to finally not be pissed off - all it took was a F9b climber calling me a pussy (who'd a thunk it!!)

Funny week - Rain followed by a flapper and overall very low psyche... Picked up towards the end and was nice to be away, got some good tips and saw some great mates for the first time in years!

[Wellsy]

Knees are just generally untrustworthy

Arc sessions and such are all well and good but realistically I just need to get a decent backsquat

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session. Managed about 1 hour, before I got a small split on the pad of my index, stopped immediately. Made new links on a proj and nearly sent another. Still on an upward trend of feeling lighter and stronger.
W.
T.
F.
S.
S. Morning pass so headed to Newstones with the intention of doing easy volume. Excellent weather, quiet crag and good climbing. Wasn't moving great - clunky and nervous, I suppose that's what happens when you haven't touched grit for a year. Thought I'd do a couple of laps on The Ripple, but couldn't remember my hand sequence and bailed after falling near the top a couple of times. Not to worry, there's little ego left to be damaged, especially after falling off Varicose twice, so whatever  .

Onwards