I have to disagree. It's a competitive discipline with clear rules which the athletes are fully aware of. Janja must have known that there was another climber on better form than her and that therefore a slow top might not win it for her?
I think the issue is that Janja didn't lose on time - she actually topped the final route fastest - but she lost on countback in a comp where only time differentiated between Ai and Janja.
Qualifiers - both topped both.
Semis - Janja timed out right near the top, Ai topped with 2 seconds to spare.
Finals - Janja topped faster.
It was definitely the right person to win from the way the rules are written, but it shouldn't be this close at the top of the field - it'd be much better to have more separation.
Also, Janja is not a slow climber. She's not been timed out many times before, so the wall height/number of moves was arguably not compatible with a 6 minute time limit. AFAIK the limit was introduced to stop people climbing slowly - so it's probably a bit short a limit if any top only just makes it within the time. Let's leave speed to the speed athletes. It's pretty undeniable that harder routes would have given us a clearer idea of who was better!
More importantly, it was brilliant to see Toby battle his way onto the podium and I'm slightly amazed that isn't the main focus of discussion here. First male podium in lead since 1994 I'm told, awesome if true. I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to help out so I got to see some of the action, and returning from doing an airport run just in time to see Toby start in the finals was such a privilege.
First male podium in a senior world cup*. Hamish won bronze at the world championships last year, arguably a bigger feat! And obviously we've had lots of junior world medals, including from Toby himself. But impressive nonetheless. I guess it was just Duma and I who said our congratulations before the debates began