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Cry Freedom, top sequence (Read 2402 times)

spidermonkey09

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Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 02, 2022, 09:04:33 pm
Is anyone aware of an accepted non-lanky sequence on the top section of Cry Freedom? I had a go today and can do all the moves on the top boulder pretty easily apart from the long one up to the glued crimp. It felt really, really reachy. I think I can see a way to make it work using ridiculously high feet, but it'll be hard. Just wondered how others had done this, ideally if you're about 5'7! Cheers!

haydn jones

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#1 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 02, 2022, 10:48:16 pm
I was on this with Pope yesterday and he was able to reach the crimp fine, but struggled on the releasing his left hand. just left hand undercut right hand sloper next to it and then go big.

petejh

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#2 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 02, 2022, 11:06:01 pm
This is what this siteís been missing for the last two years. Fuck politics and covid, welcome back arcane beta for glued-together limestone.

spidermonkey09

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#3 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 02, 2022, 11:24:39 pm
Thought it looked pretty well chalked. Sounds about right, if Jim can reach the crimp I probably have the reach, although maybe not the guns! Would be interested to know where the feet are for this move if he happens across the thread. I thought releasing the left hand would be down to heel placement?

Incidentally, the route really needs a proper lower off. Any thoughts where it could go? I thought just up and right of the decent left hand side pull at the end of the top crux. At the moment the finishing holds are shit and in the middle of rock that gets wet very fast.

Kingy

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#4 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 03, 2022, 12:03:32 am
My 2p's worth. I think regardless of the scoop where the route finishes now (by the vast majority of ascentionists other than Neil Dickson and a few in the 80's) drying slower than the rest of the route, any new loweroff should be here (i.e where the route finishes now). To be clear, the 'scoop' is at the end of the still tricky moves up and right after the crux, which at least one person has fluffed on RP and which add spice to the route right til the end. It would be a shame to end the route early without including these moves with a new, lower loweroff.

I know its loose on the original finish to the ledge but a part of me is a bit uncomfortable with putting a new loweroff before the original finish. It wouldn't bother me if the status quo of lowering off a single  draw in the scoop remained, leaving folk free to go all the way to the proper loweroff bag on the ledge if they want to. 

Steve Crowe

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#5 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 03, 2022, 02:25:22 pm
Cry Freedom finishes on the ledge so thatís where the lower off should be in my opinion. However perhaps it would be worth adding more bolts to the dirty section so it would be possible to yard from bolt to bolt making it more practical to keep the finish clean and leaving the option to lower of a couple of QDs if the finish is too wet.

jimpopeonarope

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#6 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 03, 2022, 06:38:43 pm
Would be interested to know where the feet are for this move if he happens across the thread. I thought releasing the left hand would be down to heel placement?

I have left foot on the sideways chip you do the knee bar off, and right foot level with it on a bad sloper a foot ish to the right. Once i get the crimp and put the heel in, i used a small crimp up and left rather than the undercut to release. It felt really hard and probably a bit too hard for me to do from the floor at the moment. Keen to take another look soon!

spidermonkey09

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#7 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 04, 2022, 07:24:26 am

It felt really hard and probably a bit too hard for me to do from the floor at the moment. Keen to take another look soon!

Distressing news!  :o

Cheers Jim. I'll have a go at that and see what I can work out. Sounds more feasible than Eders beta using a mono and dynamic toe hook at least!

spidermonkey09

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#8 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 04, 2022, 07:29:03 am
Re the lower off, I can't get too upset about nobody climbing to the top, it's filthy dirty choss and nobody has been up there for years. Might as well just formalise what everybody already does.

I think Ted's suggestion of a lower off where the existing single bolt one is is reasonable. This would mean you still have to do that techy little traverse to finish. That said, it's all pretty arbitrary. There's a video of Jordan where he finishes well before that section, and I can't imagine he's the only one to have taken the tick from there. Was it previously common to finish there?

Kingy

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#9 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 04, 2022, 08:44:25 am
Just to clarify, Im happy with the status quo of lowering off draws but wouldn't object to a LO going in if that makes sense

spidermonkey09

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#10 Re: Cry Freedom, top sequence
April 11, 2022, 03:24:39 pm

I have left foot on the sideways chip you do the knee bar off, and right foot level with it on a bad sloper a foot ish to the right. Once i get the crimp and put the heel in, i used a small crimp up and left rather than the undercut to release. It felt really hard and probably a bit too hard for me to do from the floor at the moment. Keen to take another look soon!

Tried this sequence with a slight variant on the left foot position, which I moved up and left to weird vertical smear on a little spike. I also cleaned up a few potential new footholds for the right foot just above the good right foot nobble that everyone tall can use. Its too hard for me so I'm binning it off, but would be interested if Jim can get it done as he'll be stronger on the move than me (I only managed it once in two full sessions!)

 

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