[Fingers of a Martyr]

Right anyone got any tips? Basically i have no stamina and even less power endurance. My fingers just uncurl after 5 hard moves I was thinking of doing longish (12-20 moves) boulder problems on similar holds?
I fancy tryin sum :shock horror: sport routes and need to get my fitness together...

any advice much appreciated...

cheerz

jonny

[paulh]

circuits are the way to go - next year I have decided i am aiming to do some  sport routes of the short hard variety and circuits on the bouldering wall 20-25 moves.

There is a Gresham article about power endurance on PlanetFear, its quite good as well

[webbo]

you could try doing 10 to15 easy but steep moves in to a problem thats about 80% of your max.i find this quite effective.it's one of gresham's work outs.

[Graeme]

I personally like to do stuff similar to on the minute where your limited to the time it takes for another person to climb aproblem then your back on again, then they climb and your back on again, seems to do the trick.

Oh and you have to do it lots not just twice.