[shark]

11.7-8 average 161.7 down 0.3lbs

M Eve mobility

T

W PM mobility I think

T

F  Weather was shit so sacked off going outside. Hangs spread through the day. Set of recruitment and speed pulls followed by max hangs on ergo edge. Best hang HC+32.5kg x 6 secs which is around PB level

S PM Mobility

S Set of recruitment and speed pulls then foot on campussing.

Easy week. Heading to LPT tomorrow for a couple of days.

[yetix]

M Hangar, thought I was fresh enough for the board quickly realised I was not, spent about an hour going around a few 6-8s downstairs and doing 2x yellows upstairs
T rest
W quick 1 arm hang session on the bottom bm2k edge 5x5s 5kg assistance each side. Also did a one armer on the right hand at body weight on this edge, because party tricks. Left hand feels a mile of this.
T Boardroom. Moonboard managed 7 more benchmarks. Running out of 7As on there but the 7Bs feel the living end ha.
F rest
S spotting duties in the day, short cave session in the eve. Repeated rocka first go after warming up, 3x goes at Hatch got to the flake each time. Feeling more consistent but didn't have time to have more goes.
S rest/scoped out the gop

[Duma]

M - 12hr shift.
T - 12hr shift.
W - Bouldering, TCA. Did the comp, so 25 problems. Weird tweak of a neck muscle warming up. Going ok for the first 20 or so, albeit with a couple of annoying slips, but then really struggled, only managed one more top, and got pretty spanked by the steep harder ones, barely even got many bonuses. Still, tried hard.
T -
F - Early start, travel.
S - Chulilla, gentle slabby start at Fantasia. 5+, 6a+, 7a, 6b, 6a, 7b. All OS except the last, went wrong way but steady second go.
S - Even gentler day to help gf settle in, Cherales. 4, 4, 5+, 5, 6a. Feeling tired and neck still tweaky. Rain forecast tomorrow and feel like I need the rest despite not doing much yet.

71kg

[James Malloch]

M. Acro yoga

T. Friend was stuck in traffic so couldn’t come to the board. I had a rest - was absolutely knackered.

W. Intended to have a board session - too knackered.

T. Friend couldn’t make board session again - I bailed, still knackered.

F. Day out doing field work. On my feet for 6 hours carting 10kg round on my back and, dismantling monitoring stations and lugging them all back to the car (about another 10kg of awkward kit for each tributary). Managed to get around every one and dismantle all but 2 which were stuck fast. Good day of food/drink. Cruffin, Sausage roll, 2 pork pies, 3 toffee crisp, coffee, tea, 2 cans of pop. Pie and beer for dinner. My perfect day of food!

S + S. Mums 70th so back in Cumbria visiting family. Beautiful weather and some lovely walks out. Been told about how stupid spaniels are with drops. Mine ran off into a quarry and re-appeared a few seconds later. I assumed there wasn’t a drop but me must have gone over about a 4m drop. Good job it wasn’t the high part - idiot.


Summary of the week was a was absolutely fucked. We’re at the stage where we only really have one evening free a week due to packing so much in. A rest week has been long overdue - I watched a lot of Spooks. Feel more alive today so hopefully it’s done the trick.

11.5 days of work left (spread over 3.5 weeks) so really close to our trip now. Can’t wait to relax and just climb outside lots.

[Will Hunt]

Hello, boys! I'm baaack!

W - Harrogate Wall. Flashing routes up to 7b as a three for a few hours.

Sa - Bridestones with Jim, Sophie, and Matt. Got a bit flash-tired repeating Horror Arete. Hadn't really warmed up by the time we got to Jerry's. Fortunately Matt found a lovely bit of beta that made going into the pocket much much easier for the taller boi (go in with left foot first). Was feeling pretty beaten up by this point (my level of activity lately has been dire) with very tired shoulders. Got my hands over the top feeling around among the baldness and slithered off exhausted. A similar attempt followed. Had a long rest and then did it - very chuffed as I didn't expect to be able to do it in a session. Thank God for Matt's beta. We also did Cleopatra and plenty of easier techy slabs. Delightful. Even had a pint in Hebden Bridge afterwards.

Su - A broken shell of a man riddled with DOMS in every fibre of my being. Still not rid of it.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T.
F.

S. Early morning session on the woodie. Spent most of it adding a bunch of new Beastmaker holds, mainly pinches which I was lacking, first impressions of the holds are great. Managed maybe 30 mins of actual climbing.

S. Afternoon session. 20 mins TRX and fingerboard warmup. 1 hr on the woodie. 30 mins getting to grips with the new holds and repeating some easier problems, then 30 mins working 2 projects. Need to go harder as I climbed one of them at the end of the session, but there is plenty of scope to make some harder variations of it. The other one is 6 moves long and feels miles away! Allez!

[SA Chris]

Su - A broken shell of a man riddled with DOMS in every fibre of my being. Still not rid of it.

Embrace the DOMS!

[tommytwotone]

Goal: New (to me) Font 7a outdoors somewhere

(inc a bit of week 723)

Sat: City Bloc with youngest, not been there in ages. Good session, he enjoyed it and did a few bits, I got enough of his time and patience to allow me to rag round and wear myself out

Sun: Holmfirth with youngest to meet up with T2 and Mini-T2, mainly just to enjoy some actual outdoor climbing. Hardest thing I did was my warm-up, but T2 did well. Had another bash at Mad Mantel which my old man hips do not like the high step on.

Week 724:

M: 3rd day on. I haven't climbed 3 days in a row since before kids (8 years ago). Random day of leave booked in hope of a decent day out, but weather didn't play ball. Went to LSD and decided to just try all the "easy" stuff. Got as far as all the V0s, V1s, V2s and V3s. Pulled on to a V4 and arms went to jelly. Good workout though.

T: 4th day on(!) kind of accidental as other half had just assumed I was going to the wall in the evening and I didn't want to turn down a pass. LSD had been part-stripped, so nothing new to go at, so just pottered round for a bit. Got sucked into attempting a V5 and a V6 I'd been trying previously and surprised myself by doing both.

W: Nowt

Th: LSD eve. New section reset, lots of interesting, tech-y stuff...big boy grades though! Came away a bit humbled but good in the long run I guess.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag 3', 1' rest, uphill jog 4', 1' rest x6.
Tue - 20' garage session 2. Tired from Monday sprints.
Wed - ab wheel, loaded carries.
Thu - went climbing on rock after a few years. I just tried to avoid an injury.
Fri - EMOM weights: TBDL x5 70 kg , snatch x5, high pulls x5 40 kg, all x7.
Sat - weights.
Sun - boxing bag, very tired from bike riding in baltic weather.

[Bradders]

M - rest

Tu - fingerboard one arm hangs. 6x 7s straight arm and 6x 7s 90' lock. Did the first 3 on the low BM1k edge which meant I could use less assistance (20kg) but it was awkward for the right hand with my pulley set up so did the rest on the Lattice edge. Followed by an hour on the board trying limit moves. Hangs had definitely taken it out of me, not as good as last week. Finished with weighted pull ups, bridges, external rotations and rings press ups and Ts. Felt a cold coming on.

W - rest, felt bad with a cold

Th - half sessions as short on time. Pick up fingerboard 2x each of index and pinky mono and middle 2, all half crimp, same weight as last week except upped index. Then 3x board triples and finished with weighted pull ups superset with wide Arnold Press.

F - rest, drove to North Wales late evening

Sa - triple crag day! 9am start, walked to Craig y Llyn as it was right next to where I was staying. Warmed up and did the right arete of the main block, then the link of that into the Brat finish which took a few goes. Great move on the Brat. Attempted to flash Voie Normale Sit but had decided on an unnecessarily complex sequence which didn't work. Did it in a couple of goes via a more basic method. Packed up and headed round to Rhiw Goch to meet some friends. Lovely to sit in the sun and chat for a bit, but still a nice cold breeze so climbing was fine. Managed to do Moria 3rd go, which I was pleased with having utterly failed on it a couple of years ago. Glad to do it quick as those holds bite! Finally headed round to Elephantitus Cave. Managed to flash Elephantitus itself, then finished the day trying and eventually doing Going Down on an Elephant. Stopped at 17.30! Big day!

Su - early morning again, started at the Gwynant Roadbloc as I was driving past it. Started on Seadogs Arete thinking the stand at 6A+ would make a good warm up, and the sit is the best looking of the harder lines. Unfortunately I reckon that grade is a full number or so off! More like 7A climbing the arete proper without going way over to the left. Eventually did it, then managed the sit as well in a bunch of goes. Packed up and headed up to the Smith Block near the Mallory Boulder to meet friends. Did a nice wall climb, Smith's Pockets (non-lank method, couldn't make the span on the lank version!), and a couple other 6s, then onto the main event Poison Ivy. Attempted a flash but didn't get the heel hook in properly and dropped the crux. Did it 2nd go. Awesome problem. Finished doing the sit to Smith's Pockets via the non-lank method.

Fantastic weekend away, felt so lucky. Couldn't really have gone any better in terms of focusing on volume, especially given I still have a cold! Did everything I tried and had a great time. There's something extra special about turning up at a crag, doing what you wanted to do on the quick, before promptly packing up and heading elsewhere. Very satisfying. Does make me wish I lived closer to the mountains though.

[Coops_13]

Two weeks:

T: inSpire Rock Houston. Quick session after being stuck in a windowless meeting room for 11 hours, feeling very heavy and weak - not ideal prep for Bishop…

F: Flew to Bishop

S: Buttermilks. Warm up then to Fly Boy area. Did Fly Boy Arete V5 3rd go, should have flashed. Gave me a false view of the trip to come… Failed miserably on Fly Boy and the Sit, couldn't get fingers to work. Went to Bowling Pin V4 and did that, very good. Finished the day over at High Plains Drifter, skin too far gone for that.

S: Happies. Warmed up and surprised myself sending The Gleaner V6/7, really good. Tried Hulk to no avail, my hand was having none of it. Went up to Every Color You Are V6 and couldn't touch it before a local (ish) showed up and gave pristine beta. Went first go from the bottom with that beta. Finished the day doing Kepton Classic V4 with some unusual final dyno beta to protect my left hand.

T: Buttermilks. High Plains Drifter to start. Got through to crux slopey left hand quickly but couldn't work out how to use it in a way that didn't cause me pain Spent way too long trying and ruined my skin with the patina. Went and did the Hunk V2 as a consolation. Failed on some other easy stemming boulders then finished the day falling off Easy Grit V5, causing more hand pain in the process...

W: Sads. Power hour before my flight home. Strength in Numbers V5, incredible overhung and long boulder - just what I needed to finish the trip! See vid on Non-quality Vids

T: Went and cleaned a boulder with hope to try on Friday

F: Boulder Canyon. Boulder I cleaned the day before was still wet - bit I was worried about was dry, bit I thought was fine was wet… Went to Castle Rock and played around on a V5 and V8 but no luck (5 hurt hand, 8 too crimpy)

S: G1. Repeaters 20mm BW 7/3 X6 *6sets. Final two sets were 6/4. Very tough but felt good. Tried problems and sent 3 V4, 3V5, 1 V6.

Hand still bothering me, prevented doing some climbs in Bishop and home... Hopefully will grab an MRI soon to get it looked at

[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M - Wall. Knackered after Portland boulders.
T
W
T - Wall. Crappy work week dragged general mood down and the idea that sneaky afternoon at the wall would alleviate this turned out to be overoptimistic
F
S - Wall. Decided to try new comp set and actually quite enjoyed this.
S

I think I was feeling a bit crappy still post covid, and had also got v slack about midweek walking / running

M - Max hangs - Improved on previous pre-covid improved numbers so quite pleased with that. Quite a decent board session plus trying to make more progress on various comp problems. Fun evening.
T
W - Various pulls - assisted 1 arms, wide weighted pulls, locks, mini stretch. Felt pretty good.
T - Max hangs. Wall - pretty syked on the board, felt really good, tried some roof things in the cave for the first time in literally years. I wonder whether that stuff might actually be not unsensible, esp when it involves pulling round lips when quite pumped.
F
S - Wall. Quite sore skin and going out following day so tried to stick to wooden holds and not do too much.
S - Winspit. Wanted too assess how unfit I was and didn't have anything specific in mind, so opted to put clips in Peppercorn Rate for partner. Great route, though I took a while to figure out best options for moved above the overhang in the lower section, and also made thing harder for myself at the top by not moving right enough. Really enjoyed it, but got insanely pumped and didn't recover very well at all. Repeated some other things and 7 year old had a go on two things, though managed to bump his unhelmeted head which didn't go down v well. Helmet now ordered. Anyway, perfect conditions, t-shirt weather, etc, and v keen to get back for more Dorset routes as much as possible over the coming months.

[JohnM]

M - Hike 5.84km +254m. 50 BW squats + achilles rehab.

T - Hike 6.28km +220m 100 BW squats + achilles rehab. Bouldering - rubbish session. Gone backwards on the coloured sets, campussing was terrible. One arm hangs ok.

W - Hike 6.41km +220m 100 BW squats + achilles rehab.

T - Hike 7.98km +239m 100 BW squats + achilles rehab. A bit of bouldering and routes. 7b, 7c, 7c (fail).

F - Drove to France. 66 BW squats.

S - 100 BW squats (3 x 33).

S - Supporting the Trail des 3 Chateaux (80km +3200m). Early start 0430am and very cold (-5C). Mainly driving to all the aid points but also hiked/jogged some of the sections. Amazing weather and scenery! 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late again... club

M: AW with GF - Belayed and did a few easy routes up for F6b
T: AW with mate - Warmup, burn on new F7b that I had a play on last weekend - surprised myself by pissing the crux and staring at the chains thinking shall I just go for it and skip the last bolt & face a pretty big lob or try and clip from a seriously strenny position? Chose the latter, fumble the clip twice, decided to fuck it off and skip the clip (completely boxed by this point) and end up throwing for the penultimate hold and taking the ride anyway... Arse! Bouldered up to V6ish - fun!
W: Rest
T: AW with daughter - Did some Autos up to F6c
F: Rest
S: AW with GF and daughter - Got on F7b again, felt pants... Lobbed off last hold as decided to skip the clip from the ground this time but everything felt hard!
S: Full on cold/flu shizz - Up all night, sweats, sore throat, the lot! Not covid thankfully but felt like shite (still do!) Arse!

Meh... Cold got in the way but surprised myself earlier in the week which was nice... Going to just take it easy and work on stamina until Spain in a couple of weeks now (once I've done that bloody F7b of course ) and then do something proper about my training as the shoulder is fine and I've got a bit of spare cash to spend so will probably get some sort of plan together so I can maximise my Kaly trip in October (that I just booked YYFY!!)...

[joeisidle]

Better late than never to join in right? Two weeks worth to get started post a COVID isolation period spent mainly stretching and doing gentle shoulder conditioning

21st Feb - 27 Feb
M - Core routine (plank, bicycle, leg raise)
T -
W - Fingerboard (5x not quite max hangs on 18mm edge - +10kg)
T - Core routine (side plank, dish, bicycle, chest raise)
F - Fingerboard (5x bodyweight on 10mm edge), Pullups (5 reps of 4-7), indoor circuit up to V5 at Bham Depot. Felt very tired and powered out by the end, but felt like I was moving ok after not doing much for two weeks.
S -
S- AM - fingerboard (5x not quite max hangs on 18mm edge, + 10kg), PM Llangattock edge bouldering, did a new 7A but skin gave up very quickly

28th Feb - 7th March
M- 25 minute evening swim with other half, spoiled slightly by goggles letting in water on every fucking length
T - Short session on Moon Wall (felt rubbish, getting shut down by anything above 6A+), 3x5 narrow pullups, 3x3 wide pull ups
W -
T - Shoulder conditioning (IYT, push ups, TRX), pull ups (3x5 narrow, 3x3 wide) & max hangs (3x 17kg on 18mm edge)
F-
S- Climb outdoors with other half at Goitre Coed, gentle pottering in low-mid 6s
S - Outdoors again at Llangattock, did a couple of new variations in the 6C-7A range, shoulder conditioning in eve (IYT, shrugs and 1 arm isometrics)

[Rocksteady]

Yeah I'm late too. A very unsatisfactory week last week tbh. Terrible sleep for about the 4th week in a row. Got injured.

Mon: Rest

Tue: Fingerboard, ancap repeaters, 7:4 *6 * 6 sets. I felt weirdly tired in the lats doing these. Managed all but a few reps successfully but felt absolutely spent. Beforehand I warmed up doing burpees on the minute, 1 then 2, 3, 4, 5. I wonder if I pre-tired some part of my stabilising muscles.

Wed: Very sore in the serratus. Then on one of the night wakings of my son, raised my arms and cricked my neck weirdly.

Thu: Very sore neck and back, had to cancel climbing session. Physio rehab exercises.

Fri: Sore neck and back, just physio rehab exercises.

Sat: Ditto.

Sun: Felt a bit better, did a light bouldering session then tried to do aeropow campus laddering on medium campus rungs at the Arch Acton. However, I did 1m30 something on first set and by the 6th set was only doing 30 secs. So this was maybe more short PE than I wanted. I think next time I will move onto the large rungs for longer sets.

[seankenny]

Sun: Felt a bit better, did a light bouldering session then tried to do aeropow campus laddering on medium campus rungs at the Arch Acton.

Have they finally put some footholds under the campus rungs then?

[Aussiegav]

Late to the party. Thought I’d shared.
Monday -
Rest


Tuesday
Routes at Awesome Walls.
Had a good warm up over 4 routes, 5a+, 5c, 6a+ & 6b.

Work on Redpointing session. Picked a
6b+. Went up not expecting too much as it looked hard. I did all the moves except the last one. I didn’t intend to have another go. But then changed my mind and climbed to the last move. Didn’t do the last move, then worked out the move and did it 3 times. I lowered to the third bolt and climbed it to the top. I had a long rest, 15-20mins and then did it.
Second route to Redpoint, a 6c. This looked fairly simple with some big holds. I went up once, worked the moves and then did it next go. I’d give 6b+ but it did suit my style.
Great session and take away learning is, give routes a 2nd try before walking away from them.

Wednesday
30min  ride on the peloton


Thursday -
Into the 2nd week of 8 fingerboard programme. A quick session at home. This week is four 10s hangs at 87% (BW plus 7.5kg).

Friday

Went to the School late in the evening. Planned a big mileage session spread over the 3 Moonboards.
9 problems from each board. 2.5 – 3 mins rest between each problem. Maximum of 1 attempt per problem.
27 Problems across 3 Moonboards

Saturday rest.


Sunday rest

[Rocksteady]

Sun: Felt a bit better, did a light bouldering session then tried to do aeropow campus laddering on medium campus rungs at the Arch Acton.

Have they finally put some footholds under the campus rungs then?

Sorry just looking back at my old entries to see when I last posted and saw this!

Yes after persistent badgering they have put 2 rows of screw ons underneath the campus rungs.