[Duma]

M - 1:30m plank. Eve bouldering @ TCA, started out feeling a bit clunky but perked up, and managed two blues upstairs that I'd been trying. Was particularly pleased to get a pocket based one given that one of my failures at the comp last weekend was on pockets. Left ring finger a bit tweaky now though.
T - 8 hr shift. Eve routes circuits cos Ant bailed last minute, UCR. Aerocap on "6b+" 10 min on, 10 min off x 4
W - 8 hr shift
T - am bouldering, TCA. Trying blues downstairs, quite a few I've not been on yet. No flashes, but did 5, and spent a bit of time on 2 others. 2m plank.
F - Went to TCA while gf swimming but wasn't feeling it so just drank coffee. 2m plank. Eve aeropow repeaters @ 50kg on 20mm edge, 7:3 x 12 x 6, 4 min between sets.
S - am routes, Redpoint. Doubles: 6b7a, 7a7a+, 7b7a. Ran out of time for last couple of sets. 1m plank.
S - 1:30m plank. Drive to Cornwall with daughter.

71kg . Seem to have put on 2kg since yesterday, so this average doesn't reflect today very well!

Currently have slightly tweaky left ring finger and left shoulder, but it's half term now so next week will be mostly rest, probably good timing.

[Fultonius]

Interesting to see the level you do Aerocap at and redpoint doubles. I think you're a grade or two above me on redpoint in general.

Are you periodising this year or doing some other protocol?  I'm now doing 15min x 3 on around 6a+/6b "upwards" and 5c/6a down, with lots of hanging about on smaller holds and poor rests trying to keep a very consistent overall level of difficulty.

However, on "redpoint doubles" I think I'd be struggling at 6c/6c+ just now so it seems like you're a chunk ahead there. I'm planning to leave that more "punchy" aerobic stuff until March and just focus on base endurance just now.

Mon:3.5km jog back from dropping work van off.
Tue: General boulder session with a few new 6c/+s and repeats of some 7As. Then 10min @ 6a+ aerobic on autobelay, followed by 12 more at 6b (downclimbs easier).
Wed:Rest
Thur: Max Hangs +16kg 20mm. Plus some 2 finger pocket work assisted 17kg.
Frid: 5am alarm for winter climbing, got to Crianlarich but roads too bad and realised it would be grim, bailed. Felt hard to get motivated to do much else, so lay in bed and watched a film (android/mother, as per recommendation on here)
Woke up enough for a GCC routes session.  6a up/down x 2, 6b up,6a down,6b up,6a down, then various onsights up to 7a+, finished with some more sets of 4 (udud). around 200-250m climbing.
Sat:11km run (well, 8.5km and my left knee tightened up at the IT band so walked the end). 30 mines yoga for climbers, managed to tweak something in my thoracic spine / shoulder :-(
Sun: Massage for shoulder, then 15mins x 6a+ish, some boulders (felt surprisingly weak - not a good warm up for hard bouldering for me!)  followed by 15m x 6a+/b doing lots of shaking out on "not quite good enough" rests, mimicking placing gear and generally just milking the steeper bits on the TCA autobelays, 2mins rest then another 15m of the same.

Aiming to get to 4 x 20 mins and then I'll drop it back down to shorter blocks are a slightly higher level.

Bit much socializing / late nights this week

[Aussiegav]

Written while sitting on my ark.
Hope everyone is safe & dry.

Monday - rest

Tuesday
Fingerboard at home. 7s hangs.
BW + 22.5kg.

Wednesday
30min  ride on the peloton


Thursday
10s max hangs.

Base weight with dipping belt =87.4kg
Max hang was 87.4kg + 17.7kg = 106kg

Friday - rest


Saturday
Pre dawn session at the School

Splat Board traverses
5 feet on Campus Pulls
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2 23mm edge
Feet on Campus 2-4-6 x2 (13mm)
5 warm ups 5 to 6a+

15min send session  on the 2016 Moonboard
- Crimps & the Blobs. 6b+ did first go then rested 5mins and did again.
- I’m Not a Setter. 6b+  can’t do cross over move to 2nd last hold. Fingers open up on E13.
- Winkles 5. 6b+ hard move to black square E16.
- Very Small Moves. 6b+. Nice problem. Climbs like an outdoor problem

Conditioning
10s frenchies on repeater timer (10:2)
4,4,3. (Number of locks at 90* & 120*)

Bicep curls
4sets of 5 reps each arm. 15kg

Sunday
Rest day - working 2pm to 10pm

[yetix]

M rest
T
am 5x7s HC 20mm +27.5
pm Hangar 50, repeated the 3 hardest things I'd done on the board, added a harder to finish to 1 of them and managed to do the only move I hadn't done on another project I've been working on. Very happy with this session!
W rest
T Hangar 50 again. Started on something entirely new, first move is crux, didn't feel miles off. Could hold the position and get feet back etc. Moved onto another (supposedly harder problem - board grades continue to make no sense!) which felt immidiately closer to doing in a session, revolves around linking 2 moves for me, in the end I could do each move a little over 50% of the time, so hopefully next session fresher and with the beta more refined now I can link that, managed to repeat the crux section of the thing I did on Tuesday first go, but too tired to link from the start.
F rest
S rest (felt v tired from previous sessions + neighbours had a party on til 7am which wiped me out as I couldn't sleep so opted for double rest day)
S Matchworks for a 1 arm session, expected it to be cool and quiet, it was busy and surprisingly warm/humid! RH 4x5s BW HC 1x5s -6kg (kept greasing off the final hang no matter what I did, 2x attempts at 3s/ea) LH 5x5s -6kg HC (final hang may have been a failed hang as may have hit the stopper knot just at the end of the hang)

[Bradders]

Deload week

M / Tu / W - rest

Th - City Bloc. Mid-evening so naturally very busy. Warmed up and joined a group on the Kilter Board who for some reason had it at 30'. Followed them round a few easy things, did a 7B in a few goes and then tried a problem that gets 8A at 40' but ungraded otherwise. Did all but one of the moves. Persuaded them to drop the angle to 40' and went round a circuit of 5 7Cs. One had a 2nd move which was a complete stopper for me so didn't spend much time on it, but quite a bit on the others and made good links on two. Finished very nearly flashing two 7Bs just coming off the top on both.

F - rest

Sa - went for a walk round the Chevin then nearly got stuck in the car park as the snow came down pretty hard. In the evening did half a one arm session, Lattice edge 2x 5s straight arm and 2x 5s 90' lock, half crimp, all -20kg, 2 min rests. Finally then bit the bullet and took all my good (20mm) uniformly spaced footholds off the board, and replaced them with scattered 10mm edges. Been meaning to do this for ages due to the suspicion that the big feet make it too easy, or at least don't help me target my weaknesses. Had a session mainly trying to repeat easy - mediums I had dialled on the big feet; smaller ones certainly up the ante and makes the board feel quite burly, which is good! Felt thoroughly worked after. Finished with 5 mins of easy climbing and shaking.

Su - rest. Took a load more holds off the board and set what should be a cool new problem. Gradually transitioning the board from symmetrical to splatter.

[duncan]

Storm club:

M - 10km walk.
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs, handstands, side-planks. Box-steps for 25 minutes. 10km walk.
W - 7km walk.
T - Brief fingerboard warm-up. Westway autobelay: 90 minutes, five sets of 9 minutes on and 9 mins off. 250m climbing at ~5+ with the odd harder pitch for interest and to practice de-pumping. Shoulder conditioning. Walked 7km.
F - Shoulder conditioning.
S - Box-steps for 30 mins. Walked 12km inspecting the trees down in N. London.
W - Shoulder conditioning. Brief fingerboard warm-up. Westway autobelay: 4 sets of 12 minutes on and 12 off at ~5+/6a; about 250m climbing, slightly pumped.

Reads like a quiet week but you can add house clearing, painting, shelf building, and other DIY. Would be good training for a big wall - if I was planning one, which I'm not - but has left my elbows grumbling. And it was half term which is never quiet. Probably do another couple of weeks of this base fitness work, let the elbows settle, before adding some shorter and sharper climbing in March. Will try to get outside too, end of the week looks to be more settled.

[Yossarian]

M - Max hangs. Dropped 4kg off off my training weight since previous session. Went to wall. Not super p0owerful on the board, so spent a while on a new problem set downstairs which was lots of fun, though felt a bit out of breath at times. Awful night sleep.
T - Increasingly feeling shit.
W - In bed with covid.
T - F - Feeling increasingly better.
S - Skipped wall. Started looking at maps and weather forecast, as weather / covid had scuppered previous plans for routes with csl and Duncan either at Ansteys or Portland earlier in the week.
S - Portland. Easiest drive down ever. Rain all the way, but when we arrived it was overcast and misty and pretty windy, but dry. Spent the day at the Cuttings. Daughter did Bear Hug in not-too-many goes and then tried Grizzly Style which hopefully she'll be able to finish next time. I tried the former and found the start quite infuriating. 7 year old did pretty much every low grade slab I pointed him at and had lots of fun, despite getting a bit freaked out by the wind. I was aiming merely to calibrate my outside climbing potential vs recent indoor / training achievements. Had a vague plan to try to flash The Terminator, but I found the lower crimps incredibly sharp / painful. Also tried Stay Off the Weed which I thought I was going to get done, but had problems keeping my feet on. It was a good day out though and hopefully next time I'll be able to finish some stuff off.

Also, I think that struggling with sharp holes has exposed flaw in the "maybe being a bit heaver than I'd like if I can carry on getting stronger" approach, in that, whilst that might work when getting better on nice rounded wooden holds at the wall, if it's absolutely fucking murder as soon as I try to hang off something that's a bit hurty then something needs to be done.

[csl]

Goals for February
- Do 90% of planned sessions - done
- Lose 2kg - have lost ~1kg
- 3x days out on rock - storm Eunice caused a bit of trouble with this one.

Weight: 76.6kg


2 weeks here.

Previous week
2x fingerboard - up to 5x5 second max hangs
2x board
1x getting pumped

This week
had planned to get a few days out, but storms meant it ended up being a rest week (from climbing at least)
I did 3 full days of DIY, no idea how people with physical jobs can do any training, I'm still feeling pretty fucked from removing a wall and taking down a 100 year old ceiling.

This week I'm aiming for 1x day sport climbing, 1x rings, 2x board sessions and 1x fingerboard session on smaller edges

[shark]

Thanks Duma

11.7-11 average 163.6lbs up 0.2lbs

M Drive to NE. Lovely walk by Crag Lough/Hadrian’s Wall

T PM Kyloe with Karl T who was dubious it would be dry but was generally fine. We did some warm up stuff on left including Red Rum and had a few goes at Hitchhikers off the block. Flexibility / RoM improved since I last tried it not that I got any further than briefly getting the side hold a couple of times. Looked at the Prow to try and work out what the fuss was about and coincidentally bumped into Franco on way out

W. Drove back

T. AM Weighing heavy. Home warm up then Tor with Morritz. Was meant to be dry but chucked down. Few goes on cross through getting pinch wrong then got it right and climbed into THFML. Got throw at first attempt and climbed to set up for cross thru but too bust to do it - good link and pretty goosed after that. 2 attempts from start executing throw move on second attempt. Finished with a failed attempt at THFML - core was spent. Decent improvements on last session but still short of my best.

F. Weighted deadhangs on ergo edge. Not done this for 6 weeks so pleased with HC +25kg x 10secs and +30kg x 6secs

S. Felt wiped out

S. Considered taking another rest day and should have.  PM Systems board. Under par on fingery benchmark. First set of 20/10s timed 2 secs per move got to move 100. 10 mins rest then another set at normal speed.

Weight all over the place still. Broadly trying to get stronger and keep stamina ticking over. Expect I will stall on Bens in the next few sessions by which time hopefully there will be some dry routes to go at. Lower back is tweaky which is a salutary reminder to keep at the mobility work.

[Wellsy]

Bang on 75kgs still

Monday - Pretty sure I was on the circuits at the works

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - Circuits, fingerboarding (8 x 10 seconds, 35kgs added, 20mm edge)

Thursday - Board session. Felt reallllly good and strong. I've got a real spike in terms of crimping on small edges, did some hard (for me) problems on the 35 degree BM1000 board. Definitely improved in terms of climbing dynamically too compared to a few months back. Did some  core at home.

Friday - session at the works. Bit of light board, some circuits. Again felt very dynamic.

Saturday - rested

Sunday - weighted pullups (3 x 5 at 20kgs added), two handed lockoffs (6 x 10 seconds with 35kgs added). Some light climbing.

Training deload week this week which I'll use to just relax somewhat. Feel like my strength progression has slowed a lot but that's to be expected I guess.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: New (to me) Font 7a outdoors

Thurs: LSD after work. Good session. Knocked off V5 I'd been failing on for 2 previous sessions, and they'd reset the slab / vert so ended up engaged in a battle with balance-y, tech-y V6 that I eventually got after about 20 tries!

Sat: Crazy morning of jobs and family admin, but then had window of opportunity in afternoon so legged it off to Big Depot for a impromptu session. Warmed up on new slab stuff, then tried all the steep / roof stuff sub V4ish, but with timed 2 min rests inbetween. Felt pretty worked after that.

Sun: Struggle to classify as training, but took eldest ice skating. She picked it up pretty fast, I found out I've still got the muscle memory, also managed to teach myself to skate backwards (albeit very badly / slowly). Only wiped out once myself, but seem to have bruised a rib or something as a result!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Not bad at all... this climbing shit seems fun, I might get involved.
Tue - 20' garage session. Tired.
Wed - light weights.
Thu - board climbing.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - log carrying and splitting.
Sun - Lattice edge 85%, bentover row, 1' loaded carries x10.

[mr chaz]

Weekend Warrior Club:

M.
T.
W.
T.
F.
S. We're on! 2hours on the board with little man. Really good session, quite slow to get going as it was early morning. Starting to feel cruisy on some of the warmups which is a good sign. Arms still feel weak as piss though, I'm a way off being able to one arm lock off on the left and slightly less pathetic on the right.
S. 1 hour scoping new problems on the board with a bit of climbing. Felt pretty tired after Saturday.

[Duma]

Interesting to see the level you do Aerocap at and redpoint doubles. I think you're a grade or two above me on redpoint in general.

Are you periodising this year or doing some other protocol?  I'm now doing 15min x 3 on around 6a+/6b "upwards" and 5c/6a down, with lots of hanging about on smaller holds and poor rests trying to keep a very consistent overall level of difficulty.

However, on "redpoint doubles" I think I'd be struggling at 6c/6c+ just now so it seems like you're a chunk ahead there. I'm planning to leave that more "punchy" aerobic stuff until March and just focus on base endurance just now.

First, I've no idea what I'm doing really, only realised the difference between ARC and aerocap a couple of months ago!
Second I think there's confusion about the doubles session - the wall I was doing them at is called "Redpoint", they weren't routes I had pre-worked! All the doubles session was OS, mainly as I'm off to Chulilla in a fortnight and that'll be the focus. Also I'm not that strict about getting straight back on, so there's probably a minute or two between the routes? Lastly the grades at that wall are significantly softer than the wall where I do my aerocap circuits.

[Coops_13]

M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +70lb HC *3sets. Two arm OH BW had pain :/ Kilter board 45 degrees. 2 V4, 3 V5, 2 V6. Shut down on a fair bit of harder stuff.

T: Pride Rock, Clear Creek Canyon. CCC's premier sharp granite link-up choss. Good little session though v sharp rock made me fearful for my skin and not exactly my style. Warmed up and did E40 V5 before putting down the link-up of Magnum 40 V6. Had a play on lots of other variations but no luck, good finger and skin-intensive session


W: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

T: G1. Warmed up on fingerboard then did six sets of 7s hangs on 35degree slopers (BM 2K). 3 sets full hand, 3 sets one pad - trying to load in OH. Mostly pain-free which was good. Kilter board 45 degrees 1 V3, 3 V4, 8 V5. Did some really good and hard boulders. Some bouldering on the walls after (with some successful open handing) but was pretty spent

F-S: Wife's family visiting, much food and alcohol consumed. Not ideal Bishop prep...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Lost all focus club...

M: Routes @ AW up to F6b+ - Felt tired!
T: Routes @ AW up to F6c - Still tired!
W: Rest
T: AW with daughter - She led some stuff, I did some autos up to F6c and then did some bouldering... Managed a new yellow (supposed V8+ - felt about 6C+/7A at most!).. Kilter board sesh, nowt too hard  (V4ish) but set it steep and had to pull a fair bit...
F: Routes @ AW with GF - Felt tweaky and tired! Wrist, elbows, both shoulders and at least one finger feeling uncomfortable... Sacked it off after 5 routes up to F6b...
S: Drive to Brighton
S: Drive to Sheff - Knackered!

A pretty mediocre week! Feels like everything hurts and I'm going backwards... Have decided to take a bit of a rest week to try and clear up all the things that feel tweaky... Have had a couple of big nights out and long journeys recently too that have wiped me out for a few days so I think a bit of R&R for a week before getting back on the horse won't do any harm... Should proably do some cross training or summat but CBFA right now... Will see how the week progresses 

[Fultonius]

First, I've no idea what I'm doing really, only realised the difference between ARC and aerocap a couple of months ago!
Second I think there's confusion about the doubles session - the wall I was doing them at is called "Redpoint", they weren't routes I had pre-worked! All the doubles session was OS, mainly as I'm off to Chulilla in a fortnight and that'll be the focus. Also I'm not that strict about getting straight back on, so there's probably a minute or two between the routes? Lastly the grades at that wall are significantly softer than the wall where I do my aerocap circuits.

The blind leading the dumb eh? haha.

[JohnM]

M - PE boulder (16 moves) x 4 with 5 minutes rest. Foot on campussing x 2 (5 min rests). Slight improvement in time. Not committed to a proper 5 sets yet due to skin/general pump pain.

T - Tried to set a new slightly harder PE boulder. Ending up setting a desperate project for me and struggled to set anything at a good level for now. Ended up just tweaking the finish of my existing PE boulder. Might need to set some stuff that doesn't just use the small polished wooden jibs for feet as everything becomes really snatchy and hard. Foot on campussing x 2 (5 min rests).

W - Bouldering on the coloured circuits. Crappy skin and a bit tired but still a decent session.

T - Lunch time trail run 5.33km +148m (gave up because of solid ice covering everything). After work trail run 18.61km +593m.

F - Trail run 5.26km +158m. Climbing with my strong Polish friend on the spray wall. Usual scenario, I set some filthy crimp problems with crappy feet that shut him down, he sets some beefy compression boulders on pinches and slopers that shut me down. We both agree we should improve at each other's styles before avoiding it completely and sticking to our niches! Managed the crux move on the project boulder I set on Tuesday. Amazing how something can go from impossible to doable after a rest day!

S - Easy ski tour 8km +811m.

S - One arm hangs and campus progressions. Despite not really training much because of an elbow injury my one arm hangs have improved a lot. I can now do a meaningful hang on the lower middle slot of the BM (3-4 seconds). Mostly with good form but I tend to rotate on my right arm. Think the problem was shoulders all along and they have had a decent break. Not lost anything in campussing but it stressed the elbow a bit. Finished with some attempts on the project boulder and some red circuit boulders up to 7Aish. Good session.

A solid week for climbing training. The elbow is complaining a bit with the increase in load but hopefully I can keep it at bay. Looking forward to getting out on rock again as it has been ages. Finally came out of the denial phase with my Achilles inflammation from running. Nearly all the swelling had gone after 3 days rest but as soon as I ran again it blew up. Frustratingly I need to have a few weeks off loading it properly. Trying hot and ice bathing 3 times a day, some stretching and negative calf raises. Meant to have a race in two weeks but will probably have to knock that on the head and try and recover for mid-March when I hope to recce the first two days of the Dragon's Back in Wales. 

[Fiend]

Also, I think that struggling with sharp holes has exposed flaw in the "maybe being a bit heaver than I'd like if I can carry on getting stronger" approach, in that, whilst that might work when getting better on nice rounded wooden holds at the wall, if it's absolutely fucking murder as soon as I try to hang off something that's a bit hurty then something needs to be done.

This is definitely something I clearly noticed when I had a large weight gain post-DVTs.... With some effort (and when I was still young enough to take it without falling to bits), I could train to get some power-to-weight back to compensate for the latter, but the increase in pressure through the skin and pulp due to the weight was quite obvious (I have very soft / sweaty skin anyway). I didn't really find an optimum way around it, except eventually using anti-hydral more. There's always the principle of training more on ratty holds but it's not that easy to motivate for!!

[rginns]

Busy week this week - another one...had the kids all week at home as they're on half term, so limited opportunities to get anything done in the day.
M - resting from Sunday's board session
T - Board session - the aim of which was to best Sunday's session. Good warm up and then spent time working through the established problems on the board. Felt springy and light. I can really feel my fast twitch improving which feels good. Concentrated on accurate foot placements and flashed many of the problems. Added another problem involving a dyno - satisfying.
W - rest
T - late night endurance session - or an attempt at it. Warmed up, then banged straight into one minute on, then resting to almost complete recovery, then 1 minute on again.. etc. Managed 7 complete minutes across about half an hour. Pathetic, but for me it's a great improvement and you have to start somewhere....
F - Builders in lining the living room ceiling with plasterboard, drove to Anglesey in the afternoon
S - In Anglesey. End of Storm Eunice
S - In Anglesey. Start of Storm Franklin...everything wet. Nice walk with the fam though.

It was always going to be a limited week this week, what with the kids off and then heading over to Anglesey at the weekend, but still managed 2 good quality sessions on the board.
I feel like I'm really starting to get into the board, flashing problems that would take me 3 or 4 goes in December. Strength is definitely improving, although I do think I'm adapting to the board, so could do with adding a bit of variety - normally this would be getting outside, but weather has been atrocious.
Noticeably lighter in the afternoons now. Won't be long before it'll be possible to get out in the afternoons.
Can't wait.

[Rocksteady]

February goals:         
Train ancap without getting injured         
AIM: 71kg 12% bodyfat         
Bodyweight: 71.7kg at apparently 14.8% bodyfat.

Mon: Rest

Tue: Tried ancap repeaters at 7:4 at bodyweight, 5 reps, 6 sets. Finished this workout and felt good. The slightly longer rest to reset fingers just really helps me, thanks to those who commented last week on this topic. Next week I will add a rep to a few of the sets.

Wed: Rest

Thu: Routes partner away skiing (selfish) so tried the Boulder Intervals workout on the Crimpd app for Aerobic Power. This is supposed to be 20 problems in 20 minutes at moderate intensity. This workout didn't really 'work' for me. The wall was too busy to just jump on any problem I needed to in the end I did 20 problems in just under 30 minutes. And I don't think I got the intensity right as I didn't really get pumped. This could be the nature of the wall (Arch Acton) which just isn't very steep. I then did a foot on campussing test and got 1m23 which I can't really benchmark against anything. I think I used to do more on the Westway campus board but not sure the rungs are the same size. I also did a bit of aerocap 50:50 circuits on the traversing boulder mixing between the easiest (probably about 5+/6a in route terms) and the middle one (yellow, maybe 6b in route terms). This felt quite tiring and I could imagine being a beneficial workout albeit tedious.

Fri: Rest. Holed up with 2 young children spent all day inside due to the high winds. Not the best day I've ever had.

Sat: Went to the wall with my older son (4) and played about. Flashed one from the V4/5 circuit.

Sun: Boulder triples x 6 sets. Am getting into this workout, don't know if intensity is right though as I keep succeeding on all reps. Finished off with pull ups on the minute, 8x3. Ground out last few reps. Ached the next day.

[Bradders]

Sun: Boulder triples x 6 sets. Am getting into this workout, don't know if intensity is right though as I keep succeeding on all reps.

Yep, too easy. Should be failing on about half of them, especially 2nd reps.

[Yossarian]

Also, I think that struggling with sharp holes has exposed flaw in the "maybe being a bit heaver than I'd like if I can carry on getting stronger" approach, in that, whilst that might work when getting better on nice rounded wooden holds at the wall, if it's absolutely fucking murder as soon as I try to hang off something that's a bit hurty then something needs to be done.

This is definitely something I clearly noticed when I had a large weight gain post-DVTs.... With some effort (and when I was still young enough to take it without falling to bits), I could train to get some power-to-weight back to compensate for the latter, but the increase in pressure through the skin and pulp due to the weight was quite obvious (I have very soft / sweaty skin anyway). I didn't really find an optimum way around it, except eventually using anti-hydral more. There's always the principle of training more on ratty holds but it's not that easy to motivate for!!

I've not used my micros recently, and might start doing that. Anti-hydral was the first thing I thought of, though I've never used it before... I think I probably need to accept that the most efficient option is going to be to get skinnier!

[Wellsy]

Or get mad strong fingers and overcome pain through rage!!!

[James Malloch]

M. Acro Yoga
T. Board session. 6x10s hangs with +20kg on 20mm edge. Good board session. 1:05 on, 55 off for 10 reps wandering around on the board. Last set was hard! 3x5 pull-ups with + 10kg.

W.
T. Drive to Huntingdon.
F. Trains cancelled to London
S. Made it to London
S. Epic to get back home with the flooding. Took dog to Buckingham palace.

For the 1 on 1 off stuff I’m aiming to build it up to 2 on 1 off.

At the moment my partner is building up to 1 on 1 off. So for now weve been doing it like this:

Me: 1 on 1 off
Zora: 45 on 1:15 off

Me: 1:10 on 50 off
Zora: 50 on 1:10 off

Next time we want to up it we will probably go:

Me: 1:20 on 1 off
Zora: 1 on 1:20 off

This means it fits in more easily and we can use the same timer.

It’s a bit more all over the place, but is this okay rather than keeping the rest time consistent?