[Carliios]

We cleaned this highball slab a couple days back and gave it a send go yesterday, lo and behold a new beautiful, scary and technical slab for you all to enjoy. A true trouser filling experience.

FA from Elias Bignold with me grabbing the 2nd

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZKHhl6B8tk/?utm_medium=copy_link

[BID]

Looks good. What's the landing like? You must have some concept on the grade? Low 6s? None of it looks strong per se maybe getting left foot onto the first ledge. but obviously the top looks sketchy.

Great work. Sure it hasn't been done? Get your retro claims out boys :D

[Carliios]

We’re thinking around 6C/+. I’m pulling off a mono on the right hand when I move off that start crimp and get the foot up. And the rest of the holds are slopey crimps and a sloped pocket dish and a sloper before getting the top holds.

The landing is probably the scariest thing about it. There’s a small square for a pad and if you bounce off it you fall down into a pit.
https://imgur.com/a/FJPGE4X

And I can guarantee this hasn’t been done   

[BID]

And I can guarantee this hasn’t been done   

Those are dangerous words! Haha. I hope it's new though, as payment for cleaning it.

Very cool mate. The landing looks revolting but at least semi safe if you come off in control...

I may go and try it. I'll find it as hard as you I'm not WAD so you'll get some feedback on the grade in the coming months. Or a photo from an air ambulance. Both are good ofc.

[Carliios]

And I can guarantee this hasn’t been done   

Those are dangerous words! Haha. I hope it's new though, as payment for cleaning it.

Very cool mate. The landing looks revolting but at least semi safe if you come off in control...

I may go and try it. I'll find it as hard as you I'm not WAD so you'll get some feedback on the grade in the coming months. Or a photo from an air ambulance. Both are good ofc.

For reference this is the state we found it in:
https://imgur.com/a/9jwZiFl

We had to get a lot off mud off it so would be surprised if this has ever been climbed 

Drop me a line on Instagram if you do go and I’ll bring pads and a spot! Always welcome to an opinion on grade. I’m just but a newbie developer and grading stuff still feels strange 

[BID]

I've DMed you on here. I don't have Instagram (angry young/old man etc etc)

And remember, people have been soloing their '40 solos at stanage' for longer than either of us have been alive.

This could have been climbed in the 80s. Hopefully not, or at least hopefully no one claims it :D

[Carliios]

I've DMed you on here. I don't have Instagram (angry young/old man etc etc)

And remember, people have been soloing their '40 solos at stanage' for longer than either of us have been alive.

This could have been climbed in the 80s. Hopefully not, or at least hopefully no one claims it :D

Ah I’m still learning my way around the forum, let me check!

And very true, well fingers crossed it’s never been climbed!

[bolehillbilly]

Looks like some really nice rock. Whereabouts is this at Yarncliffe?

[Carliios]

Looks like some really nice rock. Whereabouts is this at Yarncliffe?

It’s up at the edge. So if you park at the bus stop as for Mossatrocity, you just cross the road and go up into the forest

[Hacker]

And I can guarantee this hasn’t been done   

Those are dangerous words! Haha. I hope it's new though, as payment for cleaning it.

Very cool mate. The landing looks revolting but at least semi safe if you come off in control...

I may go and try it. I'll find it as hard as you I'm not WAD so you'll get some feedback on the grade in the coming months. Or a photo from an air ambulance. Both are good ofc.

For reference this is the state we found it in:
https://imgur.com/a/9jwZiFl

We had to get a lot off mud off it so would be surprised if this has ever been climbed 

Drop me a line on Instagram if you do go and I’ll bring pads and a spot! Always welcome to an opinion on grade. I’m just but a newbie developer and grading stuff still feels strange 

Having cleaned up a good number of existing problems and routes over the years, and looked at the last online logs or revisited after my cleaning it doesn't take that long for nature to reclaim stuff, particularly in wooded venues, where moss regrowth and dirt build up is particularly fast. Hopefully you got there first but dirt is no guarantee.

[ferret]

Agreed, I climbed what is now Pea Crab Shuffle 20 odd years ago. No idea whether I climbed it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, whatever but it was completely green. I bet whoever climbed it next found it in the same condition, some rock just returns to nature quickly if not climbed much.

[Carliios]

Agreed, I climbed what is now Pea Crab Shuffle 20 odd years ago. No idea whether I climbed it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, whatever but it was completely green. I bet whoever climbed it next found it in the same condition, some rock just returns to nature quickly if not climbed much.

Quite possible, I did check with Jon who said he hadn’t at least done it, it also wasn’t the most obvious line but will have to see if anyone tries to retro claim it

[Bonjoy]

There is no record of it being climbed prior to Carliios. Hypothetically any FA could actually be a repeat, except where there's physical proof it isn't, like fragile surface features which wouldn't survive an ascent, or a boulder that has to be moved to make a climb accessible. But why pick on this climb? By far the most likely scenario is that Carliios' is the first ascent. In the absence of anyone claiming an earlier ascent why cast doubt?

[Bonjoy]

Agreed, I climbed what is now Pea Crab Shuffle 20 odd years ago. No idea whether I climbed it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, whatever but it was completely green. I bet whoever climbed it next found it in the same condition, some rock just returns to nature quickly if not climbed much.

It won't have been the FA 20 years ago as Iain's ascent predates that. But I totally agree about stuff returning to nature very quick, especially in mossy woods. Case in point, I climbed the line Carliios called Triple X in mid 2020 and it was sufficiently remossed by this year for Carliios to assume it was an undiscovered block.

[Carliios]

There is no record of it being climbed prior to Carliios. Hypothetically any FA could actually be a repeat, except where there's physical proof it isn't, like fragile surface features which wouldn't survive an ascent, or a boulder that has to be moved to make a climb accessible. But why pick on this climb? By far the most likely scenario is that Carliios' is the first ascent. In the absence of anyone claiming an earlier ascent why cast doubt?

I do see how things could return to nature in the span of a few years so fair point there! We’ll just wait and see if anyone attempts a retro claim, in the mean time please go try it people, it’ll put a smile on your face for sure!

[ferret]

Agreed, I climbed what is now Pea Crab Shuffle 20 odd years ago. No idea whether I climbed it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, whatever but it was completely green. I bet whoever climbed it next found it in the same condition, some rock just returns to nature quickly if not climbed much.

It won't have been the FA 20 years ago as Iain's ascent predates that. But I totally agree about stuff returning to nature very quick, especially in mossy woods. Case in point, I climbed the line Carliios called Triple X in mid 2020 and it was sufficiently remossed by this year for Carliios to assume it was an undiscovered block.

Not a dodgy retro claim, just a comment on how things can return to nature. It took hours to brush (thing must have 40 moves or something) and certainly had no signs of ever being climbed. I bet it looked exactly the same as when I found it within a year.
Wasn't picking your problem btw Carliios just a general throw away comment on how surprisingly quickly the green can return.

[Carliios]

Agreed, I climbed what is now Pea Crab Shuffle 20 odd years ago. No idea whether I climbed it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, whatever but it was completely green. I bet whoever climbed it next found it in the same condition, some rock just returns to nature quickly if not climbed much.

It won't have been the FA 20 years ago as Iain's ascent predates that. But I totally agree about stuff returning to nature very quick, especially in mossy woods. Case in point, I climbed the line Carliios called Triple X in mid 2020 and it was sufficiently remossed by this year for Carliios to assume it was an undiscovered block.

Not a dodgy retro claim, just a comment on how things can return to nature. It took hours to brush (thing must have 40 moves or something) and certainly had no signs of ever being climbed. I bet it looked exactly the same as when I found it within a year.
Wasn't picking your problem btw Carliios just a general throw away comment on how surprisingly quickly the green can return.

All good guys, I didn't think you were picking on it don't worry 

Few people have repeated already and enjoyed the heck out of it, so just chuffed people are trying the new lines!

[Jacqusie]

And I can guarantee this hasn’t been done   

I've been poking about in these woods for far longer than is probably good for me, but it's been a regular walking and climbing ground having grown up in Grindleford and the vegetation on the crag is fairly easy to spot if it's been festering and overgrown in the mutiple of years bracket.

Although some of the lines at Yarncliffe may have been done in recent (or past) years, having see the state of this buttress first hand, when something is so over grown as this, I think our freind Carliios almost certainly has a first ascent this time 

That landing is something as well, good effort chap, although we best get on with our projects there before they get found!