the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Training different energy systems
abarro81:
--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on January 23, 2022, 06:49:41 pm ---Basic principles for ancap training:
1) climbing time about the same as rest time
2) around 1.5-2 mins duration
3) hard enough to (not quite) fail on last rep of last set.
So something that’s worked really well for me in the past is to set a 15 move Boulder problem on a steep board and do 4 reps with ~2 mins rest. This is one set.
3-4 sets, with 5-6 mins between sets.
But basically anything that hits the principles above.
--- End quote ---
I don't understand what you've written at all here Stu, since 15 move problems inside don't usually take 1.5-2 min, that time length sounds way longer than what I (and I'd assumed you) do for ancap, and your rest time sounds really short. Your principles sound v different to what I do but your session sounds v similar (I use a 3 min interval timer, normally about 45s climb and 2.15 rest, give or take). Have I misunderstood what you meant or have you changed format or started to climb slow?
I would not describe what Devonshire is doing as an cap at all really. Unclear to me if this is simply an issue of nomenclature.
My fave is long boulders similar to Stu. Also like boulder tripples - 3 boulders (~6 moves each); I use on-the-minute but think lattice do 1 min rest so more like a 1.20 interval timer. Rest maybe 3-5 min between sets. Think it's on crimpd app. This is a bit more strengthy so fits well with the short and powerful end IMO. Also since it only needs short up problems it's v easy to reuse problems you already have made up and know
Fultonius:
Whatever you do Jonathan, take it easy to begin with and get plenty of recovery rest after your session. I kicked up the gear of AnCap (15-18 moves, 2-4x rest) and it started to fry my elbows / brachialis/brachioradialis pretty quickly.
Anyone done AnCap on the lead wall? I was trying to use a project level route, split into 3 sections (25m wall) and just gunning for the 15-18 move length, with decent length hangs on the rope between sections.
Oh yeah, forgot to ask. All you seasoned energy systems / periodised climbers - how badly does your route climbing ability usually drop off in the middle of a longer AnCap block?
I.e. say you peak at, f8a onsight level but halfway through an 14 week AnCap block (with lots of strength work but not a lot of aero), would you expect to drop down to f7c level, or worse? 7b+?
My peak form just now is around the f7b o/s level and I'm looking to up that to f7c, but had a session (after 2 weeks no climbing due to tweaked wrist in a silly fall walking back from a winter route..) but I got pretty shut down on a f7a+ at ratho on Friday, and one of the f6cs felt pretty hard!
mrjonathanr:
Thanks Alex, that fits more with what I’d understood. What I have been doing is 4 reps of 40seconds climbing (approx 15 moves) with 5 mins between sets.
Still don’t get why each rest between reps would not be longer, with harder moves on the reps.
Alasdair- cheers, I’ll heed that, especially since my elbows make Michael Owen look like Iron Man :thumbsup:
Fultonius:
--- Quote from: mrjonathanr on January 23, 2022, 07:40:32 pm ---Thanks Alex, that fits more with what I’d understood. What I have been doing is 4 reps of 40seconds climbing (approx 15 moves) with 5 mins between sets.
Still don’t get why each rest between reps would not be longer, with harder moves on the reps.
Alasdair- cheers, I’ll heed that, especially since my elbows make Michael Owen look like Iron Man :thumbsup:
--- End quote ---
I wonder if it's just the pure practicality of the session length and boredom of doing such long rests? Might be slightly less optimal but makes it a more manageable session length? And as you say, the slight cumulative fatigue works a bit of your lactic tolerance too?
mrjonathanr:
--- Quote from: Fultonius on January 23, 2022, 07:35:12 pm ---
My peak form just now is around the f7b o/s level and I'm looking to up that to f7c, but had a session (after 2 weeks no climbing due to tweaked wrist in a silly fall walking back from a winter route..) but I got pretty shut down on a f7a+ at ratho on Friday, and one of the f6cs felt pretty hard!
--- End quote ---
I think Alex refers to this in his pdf. btw, I used to do a fair amount of sport climbing especially onsighting, but that was a long time ago and that fitness came from just climbing. So my thoughts here are more theory than practice.
My understanding is that after 45s anaerobic respiration starts to wane and you depend increasingly (and after 120s totally) on aerobic energy systems ie the krebs cycle. (obviously this is concurrent with anaerobic respiration briefly providing power at a faster rate when needed. Aerobic energy production only stops when you are dead) So the aerobic system provides both energy for work and the molecules that will allow the the anaerobic system to resume. So if your aerobic capacity is mediocre, after pulling really hard for 90s+, you are not going to be able to recover.
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