I don't actually own any snazzy sport draws (Mine are just beefy wiregates of varying brands with fat tapes) but I think I prefer Shadows to Alphas as they have the same gate that makes clipping easier but the basket is shallower so its easier to get them out of bolts when stripping. Maybe there is a reason alphas have a deep basket but that is just what I have noticed from using the wiregate versions.
easier to get them out of bolts when stripping.
Personally I just go for these cheapo simond ones https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/climbing-and-mountaineering-quickdraw-rocky-m-11-cm-polished/_/R-p-304930?mc=8524931They've got a nice fat tape, a notchless nose and are pretty good value. They seem pretty durable in the 5+ years I've had them, though I did manage to kill one when the spring holding the gate came loose (probably related to trying to flick it in to a bolt from below for 5 mins!)The more expensive ones don't seem worth the upgrade imo. If I was gonna splash some cash I'd get some of these as they should last ~forever https://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/quickdraws/bulletproof-set.html
If I was gonna splash some cash I'd get some of these as they should last ~forever https://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/quickdraws/bulletproof-set.html
Quote from: remus on January 13, 2022, 12:21:28 pmIf I was gonna splash some cash I'd get some of these as they should last ~forever https://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/quickdraws/bulletproof-set.htmlThat’s bizarre. The steel insert should be for upper crab as that gets worn far more.
More common in places with fixed draws, in particular the lowest draw on the route.
In my experience the upper karabiner gets nicked but I've not known it to affect the usability of the draw, whereas a heavily used draw will get a big (and sharp!) groove worn in the bottom carabiner.
Quote from: shark on January 13, 2022, 04:56:38 pmQuote from: remus on January 13, 2022, 12:21:28 pmIf I was gonna splash some cash I'd get some of these as they should last ~forever https://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/quickdraws/bulletproof-set.htmlThat’s bizarre. The steel insert should be for upper crab as that gets worn far more.In my experience the upper karabiner gets nicked but I've not known it to affect the usability of the draw, whereas a heavily used draw will get a big (and sharp!) groove worn in the bottom carabiner. If I remember there's been several accidents where these sharp draws have damaged or even cut ropes. More common in places with fixed draws, in particular the lowest draw on the route.ed. This was the one I was thinking of https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/mario_luginbuhl_dead_in_tragic_accident-67521 plus a few more examples here https://nkbv.nl/files/Kenniscentrum/Materiaal/November_2012_NL_Press_Release_xlation_worn_carabiners.pdf
Go for sturdy tapes
Smith Rock is covered in fixed draws. I fell off near the top trying to onsight darkness at noon, and heard a weird sound. Looked up to see my rope had been circumcised. About 10 feet of core showing. Lowered off in a hurry. Went back up with my draws and inspected the in situ ones, most clipping biners had a razor edge. I took the sharp ones off and got a right earful from a local, despite me showing him my rope, and the article about the person who died in Switzerland. Didn't trust fixed biners after that.In summary, definitely steel biner on the rope end!
As this is a thread about buying draws for personal use my comments about the steel draws are in relation to my personal use not for fixed draws. My personal experience is the top krab wears out first but maybe that’s because of the way I use them.
I have to throw away my own biners with some regularity when they have become rope-knifes.
what do you think this is in particular? Not enough massive whippers??
Go for sturdy tapes, not really short or skinny ones. I'd agree with choosing 16-18cm tapes ideally. If you are likely to be using a clipstick, get draws with a ridged biner on the bolt end.
Unless I'm looking at the wrong QDs I think you're making a mistake.I use DMM Phantoms for trad and any decent length MP sport but for single pitch sport climbing they're grim.Quote from: NaoB on January 14, 2022, 07:16:35 amGo for sturdy tapes, not really short or skinny ones. I'd agree with choosing 16-18cm tapes ideally. If you are likely to be using a clipstick, get draws with a ridged biner on the bolt end. This 100x over. I've got the Wild Country equivalents to the Alphas and they've been great.
Prob too late to the party, But my last set I made up my own - Fat tape, solid straight gate at bolt, light wire at rope. However banafingers seem to be selling pretty much the exact thing at a decent price atm:https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/quickdraws/dmm/shadowspectre-hybrid-quickdraw
I like wiregates - (about half my sport draws are wire at both ends) light and the euros like them as less likely to "whip" open (think this is more a theoretical risk tbh) but nice to have a solid on the bolt end in case of cross loading.
I do have a screwgate-screwgate draw which I sometimes use when there is just one bolt between me and the ground. Possibly a bit paranoid…
I've noticed that there's something about the design of my current Petzl Spirit draws (grey-orange/black) that makes the top-end biner spin relatively easily so the biner gets cross-loaded in the bolt. This happens more often with the current draws (my 'onsight draws') than with the 1st generation Spirit draws which I still use as draws on projects. I'm under the impression this happens more often with the current Spirit draws than with any other quickdraw I've used.
Is there a reason you prefer the lighter carabiner on the rope end?