UKBouldering.com

King of Drunks (North Wales) (Read 4389 times)

dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 16, 2003, 11:59:35 am
Me and my mates went out bouldering yesterday and had a really cool day. The weather was great which reminded me you can still have a good day in the pass despite it been in the shade. We warmed up at the pie shop and then headed up a bit to wavelength where we did and few easy problems and then worked and dispatched king of drunks. Its a really cool problem and definitely deserves its three stars. I just though I'd share because it was our first decent day out this year.

What did everyone else get up to this weekend?

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#1 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 16, 2003, 02:49:40 pm
Just got back from Northumberland where we had the best bouldering weather i think Ive ever had there!! Cold but not so that when u get warmed up u chill down again, no wind , sunny, bloody perfect!!Kyloe In conditions yesterday were awesome!!

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#2 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 16, 2003, 04:26:22 pm
Was due to go to them  Slipstones but felt a bit under the weather so went to Eagle instead. Didn't do a right lot, but it was very nice to be there, then it got a bit crowded so I bagged it.  Even tried the minging offwidth but failed miserably.

dave

  • Guest
#3 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 09:23:26 am
Oh you're such a ladyboy, Slipstones was superb on sunday. It was misty all day, and windy, which meant the Temp didn't get more than 0deg all day - it was brass-monkeys.

We managed to do Sulky Little Boys V7 arete (HVS 6c!), which is excellent, and also what we are led to belive was Simpe Sally E4 6c.  Couldn't get off the floor on Micro-Corner, but did the V6 adjacent to it, Pod. Did loads of other easier stuff, also classic Layby, and tried Layby arete but it was desperate and then some.

Couldn't really pull of the floor on Cypher, so it must be 8b. Thats a mindbending line. Well done to button Moon.

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#4 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 09:39:51 am
Damn, my ladyboy secret is out - the hormone treatment is working nicely - soon I'll have a fine pair of baps and they'll be bifurcating my dick to create some lips.

I really want to do SLB, should have got my arse up there really - ah well. I tried micro-corner for about 1/2 hour last time I was there. Demoralising really that such a simple looking and tiny problem can be so vexing.

Yeah, I looked at Cypher and couldn't get anywhere, so I agree, it must be 8b  :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#5 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 09:51:02 am
I could get about as far on micro-corner as i could on Cypher, so i recon they're both 8b.

I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has done Layby Arete, like how the feck do you do it?

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#6 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 04:45:17 pm
I have nothing useful to add other than the fact that I have also failed on Layby Arete and Micro Corner - last time I was there, a cheeky heel/toe hook on a crappy flake with your right seemed to help a bit on Layby - unfortunately it might be one of those problems that requires technique......

I did manage to find another new crag over here - went through a whole wire brush cleaning some of the problems - there's an unclimbed prow to be had on crimps if someone fancies an unclimbed Mandala-ish V10??

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#7 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 05:17:36 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"

 - went through a whole wire brush cleaning some of the problems -


Thats cause you have a shit wire brush Andy :-)

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#8 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 05:55:26 pm
Come on AndyR, spill the beans!

KoD is amazing aswell...

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#9 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 07:01:40 pm
Quote from: "Nigel"
Come on AndyR, spill the beans!



The beans are spilt (see http://www.theshortspan.com/stuff/news.htm the rumours bit )

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#10 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 17, 2003, 10:35:34 pm
I raced up the Pass on Sat morning to try a project. It was pretty cold. but there wasn't any wind so I managed to get warm and not quite do that bastard line again! I hit the good hold at the end of the crux but had a substantial power dab. After a few moments consideration I knew it didn't count, then the  sun moved off the boulder and it went really cold and I couldn't touch it.  Oh well, I'm sure I'll do it this week.
Anyway, time was pressing. I had to be back for 11 to make it to Dave Noden's wedding in Beaumaris: a tremendous all day piss up.

Today, after a hard morning on the computer, I got dragged (kicking and screaming) to Porth Ysgo. There was quite a crew down there and we did 2 new lines and lots of first time ascents. Another crystal day.

Cheers, Simon.

Dave, glad you liked KOD; one of the finest around.

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#11 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 18, 2003, 06:05:42 pm
Quote from: "Glen Dale"
Quote from: "Nigel"
Come on AndyR, spill the beans!



The beans are spilt (see http://www.theshortspan.com/stuff/news.htm the rumours bit )


Ha ha - no, another new venue (I'm assuming, based on the fact that there was no evidence of people having done the problems - I could be wrong though) - photos on their way to you shortly Dave.

And it was a new brush as well!

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#12 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 19, 2003, 09:34:54 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Glen Dale"
Quote from: "Nigel"
Come on AndyR, spill the beans!



The beans are spilt (see http://www.theshortspan.com/stuff/news.htm the rumours bit )


Ha ha - no, another new venue (I'm assuming, based on the fact that there was no evidence of people having done the problems - I could be wrong though) - photos on their way to you shortly Dave.

And it was a new brush as well!


Tell us then...

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#13 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 19, 2003, 10:00:39 am
Might do! It's in the wicklows - are you around next weekend - might go up there one of the days.......

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#14 King of Drunks (North Wales)
February 27, 2003, 04:23:19 pm
Quote from: "AndyR"
Might do! It's in the wicklows - are you around next weekend - might go up there one of the days.......


This is what Andy was being enigmatic about
http://www.theshortspan.com/bray.htm

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal