[AndiT]

The crag is called the Wickenstones. It's about a ten minute walk from my house and lies within a small holding. It's an obvious set of rocks clearly visible from the road and ranging from 15 to 35 foot in height. Most of the crag is around vertical although the left hand side is more bulbous with an overhanging base. The gritstone ranges from a bit snappy to excellent, although it's all a bit scrittly at the top as it's effectively unused. The issue is is that lies in a patch of private land which is all clearly visible from the owners house. I spent lockdown talking regular dog walks which would take me through the owner's property (a footpath basically goes straight through his garden, it feels quite instrusive to be fair when you have to duck under their washing line to get along the path) until one day I finally met him, got chatting and managed to get permission to climb on the rocks. So, as you can imagine, that leaves me in a funny position. The best position I think is that I just leave it as it is. It's never going to get public access but that doesn't mean other people won't get to climb on it in the future, the owner is really lovely person, but you certainly wouldn't want to take advantage of that. If that makes sense?

[Fiend]

...and cue up the Bonjoy Wickenstones retro-claims 

[Hacker]

The crag is called the Wickenstones.

Is this different to Garden Buttress of the The Wicken Stones described in the Roaches guide?

PS is Miriam Farm Rocks / ERF rocks still a no go?

[Jacqusie]

If that makes sense?

Yep it does thanks Andi, glad you gained access in the end and had decent experience with it all

There was a discussion way back in 2007 when it was discussed by the BMC and folk on the other channel too...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/erf_rocks_access-237930

[grimer]

Andi do I remeber something about some climbing on a sensitive crag, an angry farmer and Justin Critchlow flying a kite or something?

[steveri]

Is this it… https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=862

Comment from a couple of years ago

[AndiT]

No, this is a crag which lies between "Garden Buttress" (which can still be accessed if you ask the owner) and Miriam Farm Rocks (AKA ERF Rocks) which used to be an ok, but now you'll be asked to leave.... it's on my agenda to try and remedy this.

Grimer, you're confusing a few stories there but you've got the general gist: There was no crag, there was a kite being flown and there was an angry farmer with his mates dipping sheep up the road. "what the bloody hell are you doing on my land!", Justin (flying a kite): "playing cricket, what does it look like?"

[Fiend]

Is this it… https://thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=862

Comment from a couple of years ago

That was my comment, I didn't go again so didn't follow it up. Still waiting for Andi T to sort it out.... Titan is still on my lifetime wishlist.

[steveri]

Ah, apols for poor quality research, should have checked grid ref. Always grateful to anyone doing careful diplomacy.

[AndiT]

No apologies needed.

Leave it to me. I'll make a definite point of visiting and seeing what I can arrange. It was the very first case I was given by Dave Bishop (legend!) many years ago and now I'm living so near I really want to fix some sort of access and do it in a fair and amicable way.

As to the original thread, I would like to apologise to Jon for being so  haughty and I hope there're no hard feelings and I'll explain my outburst in person when I next meet you. Sorry x

[Bonjoy]

Cheers Andi. Absolutely no hard feelings, even though you suggested I have less self restraint than Gary Gibson  . Sorry about the smart arse problem names. X to you too.

[Hacker]

Leave it to me. I'll make a definite point of visiting and seeing what I can arrange. It was the very first case I was given by Dave Bishop (legend!) many years ago and now I'm living so near I really want to fix some sort of access and do it in a fair and amicable way.

  fingers crossed. Thanks

[SA Chris]

X to you too.

Spare us the love in, we want handbags!

[Johnny Brown]

Does Gibson even winch?

[sheavi]

Leave it to me. I'll make a definite point of visiting and seeing what I can arrange. It was the very first case I was given by Dave Bishop (legend!) many years ago and now I'm living so near I really want to fix some sort of access and do it in a fair and amicable way.

Dave Bishop - the first person I ever trad claimed with. Savage intro to crack climbing and jamming at Ramshaw. Legend indeed.

[Bonjoy]

 

Does Gibson even winch?

Not often enough going by the number of huge blocks/ledges falling off his routes.

[Fiend]