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Two Squirrels, Caley (Read 1628 times)

Will Hunt

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Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 05:45:19 pm
What the hell are you meant to do?
I know what holds I'm supposed to use and roughly in what order, but are there any tricks I should know about.

I don't make any impression on the initial right hand pat to the sloper thing on the front.

Cutting loose once left hand is out to the dish rail/lip also felt very stern.

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#1 Re: Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 06:49:44 pm
Here's my beta:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B-DRY-HpYkk/?utm_medium=copy_link

For the initial slap to the sloper I put my heel on but also curled my foot inwards so it felt like I was toe hooking and heel hooking at the same time, although you can see in the video I don't actually toe hook anything but that was distinctly the sensation. I think this helped to engage the hamstrings really hard. Left foot is out wide I think on a good edge but might be wrong on that bit.

The cut loose is softened by sticking a toe hook in and positioning yourself first.

I thought it was a brilliant boulder despite being lowball.

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#2 Re: Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 07:37:56 pm
Cheers Liam.

Left foot is out wide I think on a good edge but might be wrong on that bit.

There's an obvious steep sloping ramp thing going down and left. Could it be that or something a bit more like an edge?

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#3 Re: Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 07:46:38 pm
Cheers Liam.

Left foot is out wide I think on a good edge but might be wrong on that bit.

There's an obvious steep sloping ramp thing going down and left. Could it be that or something a bit more like an edge?

It was the ramp, I remember now. It's more in the right hamstring though.

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#4 Re: Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 08:23:42 pm
Yeah for that right hand slap thing it's all about pulling really hard on your right heel. In fact I don't remember having my left foot standing on anything, i.e  aiming to get all the weight on the heel. At most it will have been squeezing against the vague arete.

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#5 Re: Two Squirrels, Caley
November 20, 2021, 09:10:07 pm
I can't remember my sequence for this but I'm a sucker for nostalgia, so I retrieved my hand-written diary entry from 12/3/09.  I know this will most likely be useless but just indulge an old man.....

"It was meant to be an "active rest" session but the intended "quick look", to scope out a potential project, turned into a "quick feel", turned into "just one more go", which became a "send" (twice, as there was a suggestion of a dab first time, which I didn't want on my conscience).  Not sure of grade as it took less than 2 hours and Underhand took 2 years.

Sequence (as per David Cowl on yorkshiregrit video).
Start: LH small undercut, RH crack, feet on smears - RF bridging across groove, LF at base of first prow.
- Stand up, LH to big slopey pinch.
RF heel-hook, LF to slopey rail at base of LHS of prow.
- RH sloper on top of prow, LH throw to sloper on LHS of prow, match RH to LH, bump LH then RH along to next lip holds.
- Very carefully release RF and drag until it is hooking the prow's edge, cross RH through to pinch lip hold, move LH next to it.
- cut loose and swiftly place RF on big slopey pinch, toe-hook arete with LF.
- Move hands along lip, RF heel-hook lip.  Throw LH to jug on LHS of final prow.
Shuffle hands along and rock around prow."

 

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