UKBouldering.com

Adam Ondra first to OS 9a (Read 2666 times)

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 499
  • Karma: +65/-1
Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 07:59:13 am
According to Jorge Díaz-Rullo.

 :worms:

Plenty of others taking 9a for it so fair play to Jorge going for the big downgrade, although he did cop out and give it a slash grade instead of opting for a devastating 8c+ blow to the prince of the Frankenjura.

colin8ll

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 50
  • Karma: +3/-0
#1 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 08:26:59 am
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#2 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 09:04:34 am
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

It really wasn’t a big deal for him as I understand. Very casual. I was very lucky to watch it unfold from the buttress opposite. Another example of split grade absurdity.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2817
  • Karma: +135/-3
#3 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 09:31:13 am
Looking at 8a.nu, this is far from the first time someone's suggested a downgrade including Ondra himself!

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1188
  • Karma: +73/-2
#4 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 09:46:01 am
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS.

I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.

Ged

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 927
  • Karma: +40/-1
#5 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 10:05:50 am
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

I though he did it by mistake, thinking he was on a different route? Therefore not having the barrier?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4258
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#6 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 10:11:22 am
Does anyone know the current state of the route? With respect to holds having vanished or appeared? Ondra thought it was maybe not 9a, but a big hold vanished after he did it but before Megos onsighted the route. Has it changed since?

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3401
  • Karma: +523/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#7 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 12:43:12 pm
I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.

There was a general feeling when I was over there that the whole area was a little on the “holiday grades” side, the consensus being that if you could climb grade x at the nearby New River Gorge you’d be getting up grade x+1 quite easily given a week of acclimatisation. I think the locals were quite relieved that Ondra didn’t knock the routes down more than one notch.

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#8 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 06:28:03 pm
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.


DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1726
  • Karma: +166/-6
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#9 Re: Adam Ondra first to OS 9a
February 19, 2022, 06:37:32 pm
I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

I'm not sure how this works. If Megos was prepared for a 9a tussle, then he's more likely to succeed; if the route was any easier, then even more so. I don't think there is a "barrier" which makes the ascent harder. It's just not the route he thought it was.

There are plenty of 7bs that I'd fair better on if I had to surmount the mental barrier of believing they were 9a when I set off
.. from my armchair  :lol: that Megos kid is such a punter. I bet he'd claim 7b+ for Sardine. Everyone knows it's 7b/+.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal