[MischaHY]

According to Jorge Díaz-Rullo.

 

Plenty of others taking 9a for it so fair play to Jorge going for the big downgrade, although he did cop out and give it a slash grade instead of opting for a devastating 8c+ blow to the prince of the Frankenjura.

[colin8ll]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

[Wood FT]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

It really wasn’t a big deal for him as I understand. Very casual. I was very lucky to watch it unfold from the buttress opposite. Another example of split grade absurdity.

[Bradders]

Looking at 8a.nu, this is far from the first time someone's suggested a downgrade including Ondra himself!

[Teaboy]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS.

I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.

[Ged]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

I though he did it by mistake, thinking he was on a different route? Therefore not having the barrier?

[jwi]

Does anyone know the current state of the route? With respect to holds having vanished or appeared? Ondra thought it was maybe not 9a, but a big hold vanished after he did it but before Megos onsighted the route. Has it changed since?

[cheque]

I think Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket in RRG were both 'officially' graded 9a when AO on-sighted them but I guess there must have been plenty of rumblings about a down grade at the time giving how little resistance there was to his downgrade.

There was a general feeling when I was over there that the whole area was a little on the “holiday grades” side, the consensus being that if you could climb grade x at the nearby New River Gorge you’d be getting up grade x+1 quite easily given a week of acclimatisation. I think the locals were quite relieved that Ondra didn’t knock the routes down more than one notch.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

I don't know how this kind of thing should be dealt with historically because down grading it now wouldn't be a fair reflection of the psychological barrier Megos had to overcome to make his OS. So in my mind Megos' 9a OS should stand, albeit with a little asterix beside it.

I'm not sure how this works. If Megos was prepared for a 9a tussle, then he's more likely to succeed; if the route was any easier, then even more so. I don't think there is a "barrier" which makes the ascent harder. It's just not the route he thought it was.

There are plenty of 7bs that I'd fair better on if I had to surmount the mental barrier of believing they were 9a when I set off
.. from my armchair  that Megos kid is such a punter. I bet he'd claim 7b+ for Sardine. Everyone knows it's 7b/+.