Sounds like you're calling me horribly unfit DD...:-D
Might be just the difference between "absolute max" and "regular indoor max", e.g. there's 3-4 grades difference there for me. 4 grades off my all-time outdoor PB onsight would be way too hard for aerocap, 4 grades off my regular indoor max onsight would be about right...
People get quite hung up on the intensity of aero cap. A good way of judging this is "how close am I to failure?". Aerocap should never get close to failure. IMO, each rep should finish at around the "I'd really like to stop now" point.BTW, if you are exercising in the "I can do this all day" regime, that's ARC, not aero cap. I'm not sure how useful ARC is; I've not seen any good studies and my personal experience is not positive.
Late entry...M - restTu - Cliff. Third session on Keelhaul; tried it about a year ago and didn't manage one of the moves. Frustratingly still no dice. Everyone else seems to keep their heel/toe cam in for the move, but it just slides out every time for me. Linked into it from the start at least, and nearly linked to the top from after it. Also tried to repeat The Keel and again couldn't quite put it together. Finished off with a quick circuit of the low 7s up around Demon Wall. Picked up a bit of a tweaky knuckle at some point on right middle finger. W - restTh - Caley for Ben's Groove Sit session #17 this year, #26 overall. Bit of a disappointment really, last session a couple of weeks ago was incredibly promising, but despite what looked on paper to be great conditions it just wasn't; sliding all over the place on holds. However, it was still productive as I came up with new beta for the crux section, which works incredibly well. Climbed this consistently. On my best go from the start I got to the double right hand slap but hadn't placed my heel hook correctly and it spat me off. F - restSa - short session, fingerboard first; 3x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +40kg, 2.5min rests. Then tried 3 projects on the board; had my best ever go on one of them and did okay on the others. Su - Caley. Ben's. Given training the day before I set myself the goal of just getting it consistent from 3 hand moves in. Definitely mission accomplished. Linked to the top twice in a row, plus to the lip (i.e. with 2 tricky moves left to do) another 5/6 times before just dropping. I actually didn't feel too tired so did have a couple of goes from the start which didn't really come to anything. Conditions were easily best at the end of the day when I was already tired and skin was thin! Really pleased with this session though, just very consistent on that link and feel like I just need to execute the first 3 moves well and I'll have a great chance.
M - work, 12 hrsT - tired from all the long shifts, couldn't face the wall.W - TCA, can't really remember, think I started by attempting a bit of moonboard, but sacked it off and mostly did whitesT - UCR, circuits 6a+, 3 x 10 mins on/off on, thought I was doing aero cap, but apparently it's ARC (and probably pointless).F - TCA, pretty much no memory of what I did. Maybe tried some blues? Then work nights, 12 hrsS - work nights, 12 hrsS - work nights, 12 hrs
Sounds like you're pretty close mate, keep at it - psyched to see the progress!