I feel it's a route that has an undeserved reputation for nastiness - compared to some of the upper tier it's fairly benign.
Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef?
Very busy this week with work, getting sorted for going on holiday.Mon: general bouldering session despite being pretty tired from a weekend of driving and partying... Managed a few new blacks and was feeling noticeably stronger than last few weeks.Gym after: Dips, face pulls, should ext rot.Tues-Friday pretty much nothing, few light hangs and pull ups.Choosing to actively eat more does seem to have helped in the power/strength stakes. It's going to be a tricky balance though as I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Potentially very bad timing to try this just before a sport trip...Sat: warmed up then on sighted a couple of nice routes on ermita (6c felt path and the 6c+ a little more involved).Sun: GF on sighted her first 6b outside which was ace to watch and I did various onsights up to 7a. Not quite sure what to aim for this trip as life got in the road for any serious training in the run up.Got pointed at some potential onsight able 7cs but really not sure I'm on that form, but maybe quick projects would be fine.Oh, forgot to day - I've always massively struggled with Dips, maxing out at 8 reps. Can now do 12. Pull ups the same, always been relatively shit at about 10. Did 13 this week.I really do reckon I've been hindering strength gains the last 5 years by chasing an elusive light weight for me. I hit 73kg (maybe even 72kg) when I live in Chamonix and I was climbing loads, and it seemed like my good fighting weight, but thinking back, that happened back then through sheer amounts of exercise (big routes, being out 5 days a week etc.)so I was still eating loads.Anyone else in the late 30s/early 40s managed to gain strength without gaining too much beef? Reckon I'll need to cycle a bit to lose excess before a trip / project?
Sucked up to Sonia big style and got the nod to go to Chulilla so off on Friday for 10 days. Been twice before but no particular aims otter than a desire to tick some routes so if anyone can point me at any bangers up to 7c+ that I’ve not already done then I’d be grateful.
I've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish.
Quote from: Fultonius on November 08, 2021, 07:40:47 amI've clearly also put on some body fat too. Up to 79kg from 75ish. Am I right that you've been eating more just for a couple of weeks or so? If so, it's impossible to put on that much fat in that time. It'll be a combination of water weight and food weight (literally the weight of the extra food you've eaten). It could even be a little bit of muscle through hypertrophy from your training! Weight is a really poor metric. Far more important is how you feel, and it sounds like you should be focusing on the strength endurance gains you've made!
T: AeroCap @ AW - 3 x 4 routes @ 4 grades under my best recent onsight so F6b(ish)...
Climbed three times in 10 days, are you kidding?
In any case working strength in the right way shouldn't add much beef, if at all.