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[Peak][X][Thingbetween] (Read 1122 times)

El Mocho

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[Peak][X][Thingbetween]
November 06, 2021, 03:09:31 pm
7C ball park

Sit start as for Jasons Problem/Spiderman etc but get the Spiderman wobbly crimp jug thing with right hand rather than left and go into the Thing but do this the easy way.

Was feeling 8A when I tried it in June but since then the wobbly bit has come out of the crimp. This makes the start of this easier (when you pull on it) and the finish as well as you can stand on it to get the right hand sidepull (I had to use a poor heel closer in before which was a really cool move). The missing bit will also likely make Spiderman easier too. I've not been here between June and now so no idea if the bit is around anywhere. The crimp does seem to have a few slightly wobbly bits in it still, guess it might be worth some glue to stop these coming out as well/the whole thing disintegrating.

Obv it's a link up, only new moves are the ones linking into the Thing (and I guess the easy way of doing the top may be new?? I had heard the top may have been done this way before? Maybe Aussie Si?) but it does climb quite well. You can use any part of you feet and any holds you can reach, sorry, guess it means X aficionados can do it with only toes and the Thing the hard way.



Adam Lincoln

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#1 Re: [Peak][X][Thingbetween]
November 06, 2021, 03:18:02 pm
Shit spotting....

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#2 Re: [Peak][X][Thingbetween]
November 06, 2021, 03:35:22 pm
Nice one Ben, looks cool. Is the end literally the line of the thing with better beta? 

El Mocho

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#3 Re: [Peak][X][Thingbetween]
November 06, 2021, 03:46:57 pm
It climbs up the same bit of rock but uses extra holds and goes straight to a good finishing pocket rather than the lovely sloper on the Thing. Crag X so there has always been rules etc I would imagine the Thing is deliberately done that hard way to be hard/cool rather than people not going this way (although it was a much harder move using the heel before the crimp became a massive foothold + you needed boots with a decent heel not just a pair of lasers)

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#4 Re: [Peak][X][Thingbetween]
November 06, 2021, 03:59:59 pm
Ah decent. I’ll give this a whirl next time I’m there. Nice work getting a vid out. Think that really helps for new stuff at crags like X.

 

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