[duncan]

When I was down south and almost all my training was fingerboard based I found assisted multi-minute repeaters really helpful for recovering from efforts and general volume on climbing days eg. I did 4-5 minutes of 7/3 to nearly failure (with chalking up breaks), rest for 2-3 the set time, 3 sets, lowering the intesity to get the time.
If the joints can handle it, way lower intensity than max hangs and a proper forearm burn.

Thanks for the suggestion. I very briefly experimented with something like this ages ago, standing on scales, . I might go back to it after I've focused on strength for a few weeks.

Do they work? I'm pretty sure it's not as good as normal training, but also pretty sure it's significantly better than nothing - so useful tools to have in your arsenal if you're prone to being injured a lot...

That's interesting. I was supervising an MSc project on quads. training with BFR for folk with arthritic knees* following the same rationale but left my job before the data collection started. [theorising]I can it might work for climbers with chronic finger joint problems. I would be more cautious with tendon and pulley problems where graded mechanical stress is a key part of encouraging good healing [/theorising].

*with half an eye on whether it might be applicable to injured climbers!

[Aussiegav]

When I was down south and almost all my training was fingerboard based I found assisted multi-minute repeaters really helpful for recovering from efforts and general volume on climbing days eg. I did 4-5 minutes of 7/3 to nearly failure (with chalking up breaks), rest for 2-3 the set time, 3 sets, lowering the intesity to get the time.
If the joints can handle it, way lower intensity than max hangs and a proper forearm burn.

I’ve been doing similar using the Lactate Curve Test on Crimpd. Repeaters til failure at 55% of max.

 I get so pumped, more pumped than feet on Campusing.

[Fultonius]

W: Density pickups up to 40lb. G1. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Deadlift 205lb X3 *3sets. GHD back extension X7 *3sets

What are density pickups?

[Coops_13]

W: Density pickups up to 40lb. G1. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Deadlift 205lb X3 *3sets. GHD back extension X7 *3sets

What are density pickups?

Something I did a lot which I think was responsible for my relatively quick recovery from fully A2 rupture. Like a density hang but you pickup weight off the floor connected to a portable fingerboard (I use a Frictitious one-hand one). I do a set at 20lb, set at 30lb, then four sets of 40lb 40second holds, 2mins rest, all 20mm edge half crimp. V low intensity so can do it on rest days and feels really good. I was doing them six days a week, should do them more than I do now...

[shark]

I never got my head round the purpose of density hangs/pickups for seasoned climbers. The tendon elasticity it seems to promote seems counterproductive if you are after max hang and recruitment strength.

[abarro81]

The logic is largely prehab orientated. Seasoned climbers get injured too.

Duncan - I could believe that, though you could always transition by ramping up weight and down the cuff pressure so you get good training benefit through the whole rehab process. I think there's a lack of research so far on whether tendons etc respond well to BFR or whether the lack of mechanical load means they don't respond much (or at least that's what the podcasts I've listened to say - I've not gone looking)