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Power Club 606 25-31 Oct (Read 4860 times)

shark

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Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
October 31, 2021, 08:14:54 pm
11.5-6 average 160 up 0.5lbs

M. AM Home warm up. Tor with Nick. Good conditions despite occasional drizzle. Two tie ins on AM. First go dogged to AM headwall. From bolt did second half (moves 7-12) then tried from Prow hole and did moves 1-9 then 1-7.5. Second tie in climbed clean from ground to Prow hole and didn’t do very well on AM headwall (in particular struggling on move 4 a long lock with a high left toe for a distant sidepull) but then close to linking from the break at its top to coming off getting but not holding the jug at the final bolt on Crucifixion. In many ways my best burn on the route. Altered foot sequence from previous session worked a treat.

T

W

T Tor with Karl. Warmish and still but breeze picked up which made for decent conditions. Two goes up Cross N’Angry. Bit better than Monday as managed hope to clip and less tired at the end.

F Tor. Rainy. Met Nick but couldn’t face tying on. Played around on Bens with a similar performance to last time.

S

S London. Watched Hamilton - endurance training?

Would have liked to have gone to LPT this week but weather iffy and Tor is a safe bet and Nick is always keen for it. Getting a bit sick of it and treating it as training Plotting to go abroad for 10 days in a fortnight and will pitch it to Sonia tomorrow. Wish me luck

Liamhutch89

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#1 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
October 31, 2021, 08:57:01 pm
T: max hangs (big edge half crimp, middle edge drag, micro full crimp), then 2 hour board session! Managing to move into and out of holds I could barely hold just a few weeks ago which is nice progress. Had enough left for a few sets of one armers at the end.

W: Froggatt for my 2nd session on palmed and dangerous. A couple of months of planches and presses have helped as I'm no longer feeling out shouldered on it. 1 move still to sort out then it should be game on. Had a brief look at les grand doigts afterwards, but unlike P&D this one will actually need good connies. Finished with old king cascade, which is a great line in a nice location. Very soft though. 

F: max hangs (big edge half crimp, middle edge half crimp, micro full crimp), wrist wrench, planche progressions, lever pulls, iron cross negatives, nordic curls

S: Manchester depot. Mostly stuck to slabs and vert walls for a change from steep cranking. Had a try on the new huge cave and can no longer do 7a sport. In fact I almost got as far on the 8a route! I am definitely a boulderer. Regular use of this cave would be amazing for getting fit though, it's far more interesting than a circuit board and there's no waiting for a belay.

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#2 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
October 31, 2021, 10:56:38 pm
Monday cascade repeater session. 6sets of 7:3 repeaters til failure. 1:1 work rest ratio. At 55%.  Thoroughly pumped. Enjoyed this.

Tuesday

Wednesday

Late Session after working on ICU

Splat Board traverses x3

10s hangs
35mm x2
30mm x2
25mm x2
20mm x2

4x5 feet on double Campus pulls


Moonboard Warm Up Circuit

Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
The Warm Up Problem. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Limit 6a+. 6a+ 2019 Moonboard


Try Give them Crumbs
Did the crux in isolation first go. Didn’t link on the attempt

4min rest

Boulder Triples 6 sets of 3 problems
4min rest between sets.
15s between problems (45s to do the problem)
/ the Warm Up Problem/ LapTop  /  The Limit
✅✅✅
✅✅❌
✅✅✅
✅✅✅
✅❌✅
✅✅❌

45 seconds is too long. reduced to 30s on the timer.

Conditioning
Power pull ups 4min rests
5x5
✅✅✅✅

Dips on the rings
5x5 4min rest
✅✅✅✅✅

Thursday : got my 3rd Covid vaccine & flu vaccine

Friday: rest

Saturday: School session

Dawn session at the School. Last night I worked a late shift as bronze Oncall, got home around 10:45pm. Only got around 5.5hrs sleep. Skin feels dry & sore already. Feeling tired and sore armpits from the vaccines on Thursday.


2019 Moonboard warm up circuit
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
Laptop 6a. 2019 Moonboard
True 6a+. 6a+ 2019 Moonboard
The Warm Up Problem. 6a+
Big Sale. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard
The Limit. 6a+. 2019 Moonboard

Project Session

Wasn’t feeling strong or the energy for the 50board. Tried a range of the 6a+ benchmarks I’d not done. And finally settled on Échauffement. Spent 30mins on this, powered out. Managed all the moves but couldn’t link.

Conditioning
5x5 power pull ups (chest to bar) 4min rest between sets

Sunday
Did assignment most of the day. Hoped to get out to Embankment but it rained hard in the morning and pretty much dashed all hope.

Repeated the cascade repeater session. This time not cocking up and stopping the timer. I did the 8sets of 7:3 repeaters til failure. 1:1 work rest ratio. At 55%.  Thoroughly pumped, it’s so brutal. Really forces me to fight so I can see it’s specificity to climbing when boxed.
I’ve set up a spreadsheet to map progress on each session.

Finished the evening with a 30min peloton ride.




iain

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#3 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 09:11:25 am
General goals:  stay injury free, maintain finger/general prehab routines

Weight: ~70kg

STG: as much rope climbing as possible before my fingers can't deal with the cold any more, especially more High Tor visits if the weather allows. Pick up some bouldering projects.

MTG: Be ready to clear unfinished sport projects including Unleashing and Why Me in the spring. And trad, especially mountain and sea cliff trad


M: Plantation, first visit in 4? years and first grit session this year. Had forgotten it was school holidays and it was rammed including folk camped under all the unfinished business I'd wanted to look at.
Short on time to go elsewhere so repeated a few things I'd done before for benchmarking, and also failed to repeat Green Traverse which I was ok with as I'm heavy and don't have the raw pull for the jump. Possibly heretical but I've never thought it climbed that well.
Did find a potential winter project though, Bullworker Slab hands free. So not my style, really enjoyed half hour failing on that even if it didn't feel like there was much progress.

Dune in the eve, what a film.

T: Quick evening board session. On a whim tried the problem on a minute I'd read about elsewhere on here, got 25 minutes in before arms/fingers gave in, satisfying.
Need some new holds and a reset.
Hip flexibility/strengthening

W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies
Shoulder TRX, IYT front and reverse progressions, wound up much harder than I'd meant it to be. Thorasic/chest flexibility and scap strengthening, fingers (p)rehab

T: DOMS, finger still swollen (p)rehab, hip flexibility/strengthening

F: Sheff Climbing Hanger for the first time. More and higher vertical wall space than others, enjoyed the setting a lot and felt a different style from other walls if intense on the (still swollen) fingers. Won't make it my main wall but will be good for something different. Fingers (p)rehab

S: The Alpinist. Really enjoyed this, more heebie jeebie footage than anything else I've seen.
Failed to get out and enjoy the afternoon sunshine that appeared despite what I'd seen in forecasts.

S: Late Depot session, only had an hour. Decided to see if I could do a full circuit with problems I have to try on and nearly did it, 29 out of 32. Good volume fun and properly battered when I finished.
Judging by the significant repeats thread should've made more of an effort to get out.


Some good forecasts this week but also cold and rope partners aren't free on the best days anyway.

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#4 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 09:37:30 am
M - sleep off nights, then pick up daughter and drive to Cornwall.
T - half term stuff, beach, swim etc.
W - as above, but no swim, more walking.
T - drive back from Cornwall.
F - work 8hrs. Flashpoint in eve, bit half arsed but tried a few tricky problems.
S - work 12 hrs
S - work 12 hrs

71.5kg

Another shit week. Between work, childcare, and illness I've done very little since Kalymnos. Need to sort it out this week.

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 09:39:17 am
M - walk in the Dales with sprog#1. Very large lunch at Elaine's cafe in Feizor.

T - Sprog#1 to climbing wall.

W - A session at the Boardroom. Decent wall. Did purples and blacks upstairs mostly.

T - Duuuuuuuuuune

Sa - Malham. Warmed up and went upstairs where the clips were already in Main Overhang. First go up in the sun did the mid-crux clip but made a sequence error so dropped it there. Second go up no sun and fingers started to go numb doing the crux rockover. Did the move and made it to the flatty but was having to hold on quite hard. Headed up and dropped the very last move of 6th grade terrain before the step left to mega-jugs and a F5+ finish. Had a final go later and fell off the crux rockover feeling a bit worn out.

A bit gutting to drop the route so high and on relatively easy ground. Still, not a bad place to be heading back to.

Duncan Disorderly

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#6 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 10:39:32 am
Struggling to maintain psyche... club...

M: AW - Routes up to F7a+ (lobbed off the same one twice in different places)... Aiming to do at least one RP session like this a week to sort out my poor RP tactics...
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Bouldering @ AW - Mostly in the V3 - V5 range... Flashed 90% so got on the V5 - V7's, flashed a couple, worked a few more... Surprising! Routes up to F6c+.... Wasted! Trying to maintain one bouldering or board session a week as my power is pretty woeful!
F: Mileage @ AW - Nowt above F6b+.Am trying to ensure I do one mileage session a week.
S: Bouldering @ Stanage on me own - Really just went out to walk the dog but it was dry so pottered about at apparent north and repeated a (soft) 6C/+...
S: AW with daughter - belay duty...

Psyche is still relatively positive after Kaly but can feel it waning... Trying desperately to get some structure going and get some fingerboard psyche (failed this week) but it's tough! Will see what this next week brings... Still pondering the training plan idea but funds are limited, kinda thinking of a short Suriana trip mid December so I've got summat to aim for might be a better way to spend my cash... Just gotta sort childcare, logistics etc...

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#7 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 10:41:17 am
MTG: Be ready to clear unfinished sport projects including Unleashing and Why Me in the spring. And trad, especially mountain and sea cliff trad
...

T: Quick evening board session. On a whim tried the problem on a minute I'd read about elsewhere on here, got 25 minutes in before arms/fingers gave in, satisfying.
Need some new holds and a reset.
Hip flexibility/strengthening

W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session.

I think doing problems 'on the minute' for an hour is good mid-grade trad. training. This is at a commercial wall where you can bash off circuits at a trad. angle.  I'm guessing the level of difficult is way below what you're doing.


M - Squats (double, single leg). Shoulder conditioning (supported handstands, side planks, extension in prone).
T - Pull-ups: +20kg. Fingerboard: weighted 4 finger half-crimp, unweighted 3 finger drags. The latter still feel nails/tweaky. Overcooked things as my right elbow was sore after.
W - Squats. Shoulder conditioning.
T - Shoulder conditioning. Right elbow still sore, so left arm only max. hangs using bathroom scales.
F - Squats. Addams Family 2 with the lad. Very much not Dune!
S - Squats. Fingerboard: 4 finger half crimp with no added weight to test right elbow. Seems OK. Left arm, 3 and 4 finger grips, max. hangs with bathroom scales.
S - Shoulder conditioning. Squats. Walked 10km.


Kept the lad occupied reasonably effectively, did some fingerboarding without breaking completely.

I’d like to increase the training volume as I have very little in the tank for one day redpointing: there is no second or third go. Unfortunately this seems to result in joints complaining. I need to be more patient with the rate of progression which is tricky when training is all I can do at the moment.


Nibile

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#8 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 11:33:07 am
Power Club

Mon - board climbing, PE1 one foot + 8 kg test, and BW. Farmer's 90 kg 12'. Should climb more.
Tue - gym 20' session.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - gym 20' session. Progress.
Fri - some climbing.
Sat - Lattice edge back3 +28 kg. Loaded carries.
Sun - boxing bag. Weights.



James Malloch

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#9 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 12:04:26 pm
I missed last week so two up here:

Finger injury has been stopping me doing much, but it seems to be getting better.

18-24th

Been doing density pulls for finger rehab each day.

M. 5km run up the moor with dog + acro-yoga
T. Both boiling and soaking walk around the moor. Grim conditions but also nice to be out.
W.
T. 6km run up the moor with dog
F. Short board session. A2 is feeling stronger and I can still climb most of my problems with having to skip some of the crispier holds (out of choice at the moment rather than trying to pull on them..)
S. 15km walk/run around Barden Moor. Looked at Fairies Chest and Deer Gallows. Some cool looking problems but a dead sheep under the one I’d be most keen for…
S.

Last Week

M.10km loop around the moor with dog. Nice too do an extended loop.
T.
W.
T. 8km run along the moor with dog.
F. Wife handed in her PhD. Champagne, drinks and dinner out.
S. 10km walk around the moor in the rain. Spa visit in the afternoon and a Halloween party in the evening.
S. Trip into leeds - cafe, and some shopping.

Not much climbing at all recently with the finger injury but I’ve been really enjoying the running as an alternative. I’m not too bothered about injuries as long as there’s something else I can do. Keen to get back on the board a bit more now that my A2 is settling down. Also, now Zora has handed in it will be nice to do more in the evenings.

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#10 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 12:19:03 pm
W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies

Haha!

Looked at Fairies Chest and Deer Gallows. Some cool looking problems but a dead sheep under the one I’d be most keen for…

Which one out of interest?

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#11 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 12:20:27 pm
Congratulations to Zora,  :2thumbsup: I did warn you about the dead sheep though...

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#12 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 12:43:21 pm
General goals:  stay injury free, m
T: Quick evening board session. On a whim tried the problem on a minute I'd read about elsewhere on here, got 25 minutes in before arms/fingers gave in, satisfying.
[...]
W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies

[unsolicited input]
I find volume v bad for my swelly PIP joint, especially hardish volume like that kind of session. Hence playing with other ways to train fitness (powerballs, EMS, BFR etc...). For those prone to this type of issue, it may be worth avoiding that type of session, even if it is very good training for the uninjured...  Cold water swimming is v good for reducing the inflammation, though I don't know if I'll be able to stomach it in the winter! You may be more hardcore...
[unsolicited input]

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#13 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 01:32:15 pm
T: G1. Training phase 2, week 7, session 1. First session at the new wall. Warmed up on boulders up to V6. Small edges 10mm 7/53 *3sets. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *2sets. Managed 1-3-6.5, 1-4-7, 1-5.5. Psyched! 25 mins limit bouldering on kilterboard trying 7B+ and 7C boulders. Did a V6 at the end. Campus touches on small rungs 1-3-1 * 6sets (3 each side).

W: Density pickups up to 40lb. G1. Squats up to 165lb X5 *5sets. Deadlift 205lb X3 *3sets. GHD back extension X7 *3sets

T: G1. Training phase 2, week 7, session 3. Warmed up on boulders up to V6/7. Small edges 10mm 7/53 *3sets. Campus 1-3-Max, 1-4-Max, 1-Max *2sets. 15 mins limit bouldering on kilterboard trying 7B+ and 7C boulders. Campus touches on small rungs 1-3-1 * 6sets (3 each side). Failed second set then completed V5, V4, V3 on kilter to warm down

S: Klettergarden near Vail, last time before the big snows. 24F in the car park, brutally cold while warming up but great conditions. Got on Return of the Jedi (top end V8), remembered moves then surprised myself by sending 4th go! So psyched. Feel ready to start trying V9s now :D Went to try Mortal Fingers highball V6 but couldn't work it out - v keen to return for its neighbour, a mega highball V8.


S: Some yard work, park with dog

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#14 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 01:43:35 pm
W: RH middle finger swollen, PIP especially painful. It's an existing problem I can manage but obviously it really hadn't liked the previous session. Resisted the urge to post asking for new hobbies

Haha!

Looked at Fairies Chest and Deer Gallows. Some cool looking problems but a dead sheep under the one I’d be most keen for…

Which one out of interest?

Kojac at Deer Gallows. I don’t think you’d actually hit it as it’s under the roof - you’d have to take a weird swing in. It’s fairly decayed too so the smell wasn’t too bad - but it somewhat detracted from the cool position that the boulder is in…

iain

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#15 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 02:07:25 pm
I think doing problems 'on the minute' for an hour is good mid-grade trad. training. This is at a commercial wall where you can bash off circuits at a trad. angle.  I'm guessing the level of difficult is way below what you're doing.
Cheers, I'll try that out. Home board's too steep but would be way more interesting than autobelaying at the wall.

I’d like to increase the training volume as I have very little in the tank for one day redpointing: there is no second or third go. Unfortunately this seems to result in joints complaining. I need to be more patient with the rate of progression which is tricky when training is all I can do at the moment.
When I was down south and almost all my training was fingerboard based I found assisted multi-minute repeaters really helpful for recovering from efforts and general volume on climbing days eg. I did 4-5 minutes of 7/3 to nearly failure (with chalking up breaks), rest for 2-3 the set time, 3 sets, lowering the intesity to get the time.
If the joints can handle it, way lower intensity than max hangs and a proper forearm burn.


  Cold water swimming is v good for reducing the inflammation, though I don't know if I'll be able to stomach it in the winter! You may be more hardcore...
I'm definitely not more hardcore, good reminder to try hands in icy water though.
Not tried a session quite that intense before so lesson learned.

Don't know what EMS is, suspect powerballing is above my boredom threshold.
I'm assuming BFR is blood flow restriction (Tyler Nelson?), are you using the cuffs for that? While climbing or just fingerboarding? And did it work?

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#16 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 02:20:59 pm
EMS is electro muscular stimulation (e.g. compex or powerdot - electrodes to contract your muscles)

BFR is blood flow restriction, yup. I've experimented with various things: finger curls (not so good for knuckle), weights, fingerboard to add difficulty without adding weight or moving to smaller hold etc. The lowest impact pump option is to pump them up and just do something like 30s "on" 30s rest (or 1min "on" 1 min rest) where the "on" is just opening and closing your hand quite fast. You can get debilitatingly pumped in 10-15 min without having to put any load on a joint. Horst apparently has played with pumping them up quite high and just leaving them on for 5 min without even doing anything, but I think that was as a warm-up to prime the anaerobic system.

Do they work? I'm pretty sure it's not as good as normal training, but also pretty sure it's significantly better than nothing - so useful tools to have in your arsenal if you're prone to being injured a lot...

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#17 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 02:46:47 pm
Thanks for that, it hadn't occured to me that you could just wave your fingers about to get an effect.

edit: nearly a week on from the session and the finger's ok if not quite back to its normal, the other stuff I've done has been fine.

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#18 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 02:50:01 pm
I don't think you'll get notable strength gains without some resistance, but pretty sure you can train some aspects of power endurance (if I'm so pumped I've got pins and needles then surely it's doing something  :lol: )

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#19 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 03:01:03 pm
pretty sure you can train some aspects of power endurance (if I'm so pumped I've got pins and needles then surely it's doing something  :lol: )
I get pins and needles in my legs if I sit on the toilet too long. Never knew I was training!

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#20 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 03:17:31 pm
I get pins and needles in my legs if I sit on the toilet too long. Never knew I was training!
:lol:  I thought that was just me ...

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#21 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 05:23:07 pm
M - Climbing at Bouilland in Cote de Beaune. Tried the 8a+ to the left of the 8a I finished last time. Felt impossible at first but then came together. Very bouldery start with hard move to turn the overhang onto the slab then a hard/scary 7b slab. I had one good RP but a foothold exploded on me. Didn't have enough power for the next tries and tweaked my wrist in a cocked hand position. Next time!

T - Drive back from France.

W - Last minute training for the Limone Sky Race at the weekend. 14.81km 1100m.

T - Indoor bouldering.

F - Nothing.

S - Limone Sky Race. Fast start on the flat then just brutal climbing to gain 2000m over 15km or so. Wasn't in good enough shape for such a race and struggled so kept it slow. Felt terrible after finishing and puked up a lot a couple of hours later. The last two races I seem to have had a problem absorbing fluids that then sit in my stomach and I get dehydrated. Need to work out a way to stop this happening. 23km 2089m.

S - Climbing at Camerette near Arco. Described as a peaceful crag in the guide. We did have the crag to ourselves but there was a Moto X GP event going on below! Warmed up on a 7a that felt desperate and then tried to onsight a 7c (La Classica) that felt even more desperate. Did that second go and then finished by trying the moves on an 8a (Ikebana) which felt like one of the hardest 8as I have ever tried. Maybe I was just fatigued but it was a tough days climbing! 

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#22 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 05:43:34 pm
M - rest

Tu - had time to get out but poor conditions. Too windy for the Cliff so chanced Hunter's Stones for a go at X-Calibre. Did the stand 2nd go without the jump start, but then struggled to repeat it after putting tape on to prevent splitting. Sharp! Move to the X felt plausible but will need cold temps.

W - fingerboard, 6x 10s half crimp 26mm edge, 2.5min rests, +39kg. Then first pad pinch pick ups x5 15s, x5 10s and x5 15s, 1 min rests. Same weights as last week. Followed this with board doubles. 6x 6 move medium problems. Did all of the 1st laps for 1st time, and dropped 4/6 2nd laps. Powered out at the end; perfect.

Th - rest

F - warm up on the board, probably did a bit too much, just having fun trying problems on bad feet. Then pick up fingerboard, had to drop weight slightly on M2 versus last week. Then pinch pick ups, as Monday although upped weight on 10s ones. Then conditioning; pull ups, Arnold Press, front raise, wrist curls.

Sa - board session, did probably a little too much volume in the warm up again, but it's just good fun trying easy problems on bad feet; steps them up a fair bit. Tried 3 projects. Bit of a mixed one, managed a move on a problem Liam set that's taken 3 sessions, but couldn't do another that I had been doing consistently. Afterwards did foot on campus ladders, 8x 1 min on 2 mins off. Mixed it up by throwing in some bigger moves which both made it more interesting and increased intensity a little.

Su - conditioning, bicep curls, leg lifts, lateral raises, wrist curls, external rotations. Also did aerocap 3x 5 mins on 5 mins off but didn't warm up for it so first 2 reps were poor and had to lower intensity to keep the right pump level.

Good week, really pleased to have completed a 3 week training block and not missed a session.

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#23 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 01, 2021, 08:04:13 pm
Mon: Nowt
Tuesday: Warm up, linked boulders as per crimpd app (3 set of 4 reps, flash grade), followed by endurance on lattice board. 7x min on min off. (might increase rest time to get up to 10 reps, then start bringing it down). Knuckle pressups, face pulls, shoulder external rotation pulls, dips.
Wed: Last minute decision to do a prop store boulder session with GF, felt fatigued but thought it was worthwhile for training recovery. Kept it fairly mellow, some autobelay routes to start then just general climbing.
Thursday: Nowt, meal out with neighbours.
Friday: Nowt. Did want to climb, but got called into work.
Sat: drove to skye (beautiful autumn drive, partied at mate's 40th till 6.30... didn't sleep much.
Sun: mooched about in the rain in the campervan until about 3pm.... drove home....

Not a great week of training, but very nice to see a load of people I've not seen in years.

mr chaz

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#24 Re: Power Club 606 25-31 Oct
November 02, 2021, 10:34:21 am
Dipping in again to keep a log of recovery from my bicep injury. Broad aim of climbing again somewhere near capacity by the Spring.

4.5 months post injury, 1.5 months into physio, doing my daily prescribed theraband exercises (twice daily when I remember). Haven't climbed or done any climbing specific exercises since June 20th.

My long awaited shed arrived a few weeks, so the fingerboard has gone back up. Will be constructing a decent woody inside here in the near future for home training.

W.   Very light fingerboard session, about 30 mins and unstructured. Mixture of slow pullup motions with feet on and deadhanging. Only the second time I've been brave enough to take my bodyweight, no repercussions yet :D

 

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