I've been trying to build up an aerobic base and make sure my technique is OK with lots of easy volume but this doesn't seem to be helping.
Quote from: Rocksteady on October 21, 2021, 03:15:19 pmI've been trying to build up an aerobic base and make sure my technique is OK with lots of easy volume but this doesn't seem to be helping. Can you provide more detail on this. How many weeks or months have you practiced high volume training? How many moves per session and how many sessions per week.
I take it you've considered that you're just way over gripping?
Quote from: jwi on October 21, 2021, 03:40:07 pmQuote from: Rocksteady on October 21, 2021, 03:15:19 pmI've been trying to build up an aerobic base and make sure my technique is OK with lots of easy volume but this doesn't seem to be helping. Can you provide more detail on this. How many weeks or months have you practiced high volume training? How many moves per session and how many sessions per week.Sure thanks jwi. Been going about 4 weeks on the below which I've added on top of normal routes and bouldering sessions. When I do routes I tend to do double laps of flash level and below. Tend to get through 10-14 routes total. On top of that I've been doing: 1-2 sessions a week. 3x10 minutes continuous route climbing would be one session, all below onsight level avoiding getting pumped. This maybe 500-600 moves. Then second session either the same or 'drop sets' per the Crimped app, 6 boulder problems in a row starting from just below flash level to very easy. 6 sets with a 2 min rest between them. Again little to no pump. This session probably 250-300 moves.
I've no easy solution but I'm reminded of my situation every Spring of years past. I'd peak at routes in Autumn (f8a+/b in my salad days), but spend late Autumn through Winter bouldering, mainly indoors (Raynaud's Syndrome - my fingers don't do "grit conditions). In Spring, I'd then really suffer on my return to Malham i.e. barely able to get up the 7a warm-ups for weeks. It never seemed to matter if I'd assiduously used the circuit boards for months beforehand, I was always an absolute mess for weeks. My entirely subjective feeling was that I was over-gripping - I could not use / trust polished smears after months of indoor resin blobs; I was getting nothing from my footwork and / or my fingers were wildly over-recruited. For me, the only solution was just weeks of tedium - lapping easier stuff to get my footwork right and then working links on a potential project (using it for both training and aspiration).