Technique is no substitute for power.
I'd say that they're more useful than people think. Ben Moon once said it was 65% fingers and 25% core and 10% everything else etc and that's fair enough but it's easy to say that when you can bang out one armers. I think that a lot of the time people who climb, and especially boulder, forget just how physically fucking hard it is.
I've never met Rich, and I don't care how strong he was or what he did or didn't do. What he tried to do to Heason was unforgivable. For that reason alone I'd rather we stopped talking about him, and just forgot him.
What’s the scene with the Hubble undercut being ‘improved’?
Quote from: edshakey on October 21, 2021, 08:39:03 amThe 2.5 hr marathon is kinda believable, if he was into his running and naturally very quick. Yeh potentially. Although what surrounded the event is what makes it unbelievable, as it follows the same pattern as most (all?) of his hardest ascents - it had to become unverifiable. In this case it was supposed to have happened at the NY marathon, but you won't find his name recorded because he only got his place by someone unknown dropping out and giving him his number.QuoteI hope he's found a way to settle down from the lies and being happyYeh me too.
The 2.5 hr marathon is kinda believable, if he was into his running and naturally very quick.
I hope he's found a way to settle down from the lies and being happy
I'd say that they[strength and power]'re more useful than people think. Ben Moon once said it was 65% fingers and 25% core and 10% everything else
Given what we now know for sure about his dishonesty (eg 4 minute mile) his final post on the UKC thread (that was deleted, but I’d copied it given sponsors of BH were phoning me up for my ‘opinion’) makes for interesting reading… Having just returned home I have had a brief look through the majority of crap that has been written. I have however read bens reply and feel, along with what Ben asked, that it is better that I sort this out with Ben. I am not interested in supplying the people that read these forums with gossip, and things they can spend their days trying to criticise. The only post I have written on this forum is the first one. It neither states that Ben is a liar or that he is honest, it just asks for anyone who has witnessed Ben climbing impressive things to come forward. So far not one person has come forward to support Ben but that is neither here or their.The point is everyone who is concerned within this matter will be contacted by me and will have the ability to contact me in person. Everyone else will have to just not know what has been going on until their is an agreed outcome by both Ben and myself. I have not set out to sabotage Ben in any way. I just want the truth, in fact as a person Ben is someone I like, but at the same time it’s hard to forget that I feel he is dishonest when speaking to him. I am not questioning Bens climbing ability; I am questioning the validity of some of his ascents. If he can prove I am wrong I will publically apologise via this forum and the mags. If he can’t prove I am wrong I will continue to feel that he is dishonest. Reply how you like to, criticise how you want; you will not get another reply from me until this matter is sorted. The people that are owed a reply or are concerned will get one. The majority of the people that post on this forum are owed nothing from me.If you have a problem with what I have done, or written. theirs no need to voice it on here, I will not read it and will not care. If you really feel I have done wrong, confront me next time you see me, I will be happy to answer questions from anyone who confronts me personally. I understand that the majority of people that post on here are either bored at work or bored in life, but this is no reason to expect information you have not got anything to do with and know nothing about. In fact the amount of information that has been posted on this thread by people who haven’t the slightest clue in this topic is beyond me, surely in life if you are uniformed about things you say nothing? It’s obvious this is not the case with the majority of the posts on here. Think what you want about me, I don’t care, anyone that knows me will know what im like, and to the rest it will just be assumptions. I am not owed a living by anyone, and have no reason to tip toe around people, I don’t want a living from climbing so have no need to build either a good reputation with anyone I don’t want to. I am not however stating I have no proof, I do, but this is between me and Ben and the other people involved, if you are involved, you have nothing to worry about, you will see the proof. If you don’t see the proof theirs a good chance its nothing to do with you anyway. Thanks for reading this. Their should be no real reason for anyone to post again on this topic, fish as much as you want you wont get anything else. Like I said if you have a problem you know what to do.
Reading this again I wonder what Ben Heason did to upset, offend or wound him. Classic Narcissistic personality disorder. Cross or challenge me and you will pay for it.
Went to the Tor and Will Bosi was on it again for some reason. My mate said he was on it to check that specific hold after hearing a rumour. might be bullshit. Do some fishing between burns next time you’re down
Quote from: Wellsy on October 21, 2021, 04:41:57 pmI'd say that they[strength and power]'re more useful than people think. Ben Moon once said it was 65% fingers and 25% core and 10% everything else It's not an either or these days. The best climbers are extremely powerful and have immaculate technique. Long gone are the days when you could get away with sloppy technique and still rank among the best. You've only got to watch a bit of competition bouldering to see that all the top competitors are strong AF but it's more often than not technical superiority that get the medals. Even taking that quote about percentages seriously, I reckon it's the hardest 10% to maximise and the one with the greatest marginal returns in some climbing disciplines.
What scares me is when I think about potential consequences if/when people with such profound honesty issues yet talent for pulling the wool become professionals with responsibilities beyond just themselves.
Lance Armstrong lied about taking drugs and having cancer so it just shows how lying is out there is professional sport. I remember in the 90's looking up to him as an inspirational figure but after all that came out feeling really let down and disappointed.
Quote from: Kingy on October 22, 2021, 10:19:31 amLance Armstrong lied about taking drugs and having cancer so it just shows how lying is out there is professional sport. I remember in the 90's looking up to him as an inspirational figure but after all that came out feeling really let down and disappointed.I don’t think he lied about having cancer.