UKBouldering.com

Dublin/Wicklow in December (Read 1038 times)

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8725
  • Karma: +269/-42
Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 15, 2021, 12:03:15 pm
Heading to Dublin early December for work, and was thinking about taking the following weekend to check out some bouldering, but after some beta:
1. Where's best? Glendalough?
2. Is there anywhere for a quick hit between Dublin and Belfast (or Larne) for the Sunday as I head up to get the ferry?
3. What's the craic with staying in a van in the Wicklows? Any good spots, or is it frowned upon etc.?
I've only ever trad climbed in Ireland (Dalkey and Glendalough) so I'm keen to check out some bouldering. If anyone can hook me up with some psyched Dub-bloccers that's be great! I've ordered Dave Flanagan's guide too, which I'm looking forward to receiving.
Thanks all!

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +517/-28
#1 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 17, 2021, 04:53:57 pm
I've done a bit around Wicklow using Dave F's guide:

Glendalough: brilliant - like a granite Stanage Plantation. Hard on the skin, not massively large crystals like Cornwall but it's still rough granite. I found everything hard for grade and the style subtle and body-postion'y like gritstone. Flat 20mins walk-in, can be a windy as it funnels down the valley. Great place for doing an easy-access circuit of loads of good quality 5s and 6s, or spend ages getting shut down by 7s! Generally good landings and not boggy.

Cloghoge: boggy approach, boggy landings, limited number of things, beautiful secluded river location, good rock but I wouldn't go back if on a trip.

Mal Hill: guide says the best granite in Wicklow. I couldn't find it! Spent ages bashing through new growth forestry getting eaten by midges. After an hour sat down on my mats among new growth and gave up, went back to car. The picture in the 2013 guide is pre new forest growth.

The Scalp: good easy access venue in a steep-sided little valley close to Dublin. Imagine it would be a good winter venue as very sheltered and various aspects. Space Machine is totally amazing and well worth it if at your grade - the timber patio out over the steep hillside is also amazing! Needs 2-3 pads but probably OK without a spotter. The hillside above Dark Angle looks good but haven't done anything there. Nice pub v.close for afters.

Between Dublin and Belfast: I've not been but always wanted to check out Portrane, a tidal venue not far north of Dublin off the M1. Leviathan looks ace.

Windy Gap in the Cooley hills is on the border just south of Newry as you head up the M1, easy access just off the motorway. Really nice black gabbro, very tough on the skin! Various good probs and quite good for doing a circuit of 6s. Good landings. Also a cool E7 nearby - 'The Thing in the Forest'.

There's good bouldering in the Mournes but it's mostly a 45mins walk up to a summit to get to. There's a small venue on the beach at Bloody Bridge, I've checked it out but it's only OK, wouldn't recommend unless in the area.

'Danny' will know a load more stuff than I've mentioned. 

Haven't been to Glenmalure, Glendasan, Lough Dan etc. They each look amazing. I'm surprised more people on here don't talk about Ireland, Wicklow is amazing and close. The only places I came across others were Glendalough and the Scalp. All the spots mentioned above are in beautiful locations. Ireland is great!

Van camping - I've stayed a few times in the IMC hut near Glendalough, handy for all the Wicklow areas and I think you only need BMC membership to get reciprocal. Can't see there being a problem with parking up and van camping anywhere sensible as it's a pretty quiet area with plenty of forestry roads to pull into. Dave F might know of any issues if you messaged him.



« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 05:03:29 pm by petejh »

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1199
  • Karma: +16/-1
#2 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 17, 2021, 06:33:32 pm
Heading to Dublin early December for work, and was thinking about taking the following weekend to check out some bouldering, but after some beta:
1. Where's best? Glendalough?
2. Is there anywhere for a quick hit between Dublin and Belfast (or Larne) for the Sunday as I head up to get the ferry?
3. What's the craic with staying in a van in the Wicklows? Any good spots, or is it frowned upon etc.?
I've only ever trad climbed in Ireland (Dalkey and Glendalough) so I'm keen to check out some bouldering. If anyone can hook me up with some psyched Dub-bloccers that's be great! I've ordered Dave Flanagan's guide too, which I'm looking forward to receiving.
Thanks all!
Glendalough ( Glendo) is prob the best place for a visit as Pete mentions above - easy (non-bog) access and good concentration of problems. If you have wellies then Glenmacnass and Lough Dan are also good spots.

Re quick hit, then Portrane is your best bet - steep, weird shaly limestone on a pebble beach about 30 mins north of Dublin - not exactly a destination venue (!!) but I have spent many hundreds of hours there, so it does have its charms

Re vans - no idea. Prob best to email The Flan and ask him - his email should be in the guide.
Have fun.

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#3 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 18, 2021, 01:12:14 pm
Hi Andy
1) As the others have said Glendo is the best area by a measure, good density, lots of stuff, easy approach etc.
2) Portane would be your best option, try and get there at low tide and you will have more options.
3) Should be ok, trick is to just try and find a quiet spot ie. dont' park outside the carpark in Glendalough. Check out a few places on Streetview, pin them and see how they feel. You are unlikely to get any hassle.

The second tier venues like Lough Dan, Glenmacnass are decent and there is plenty in the guide to go at. Mall Hill as Pete point out has become very overgrown since the guide came out. Glendsan, the valley north of Glendo has a lot of good stuff, spread out but worthwhile. Message me if you need anything else. If you are in Glendo at the weekend there are likely to be some boulderers around I'd imagine.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8725
  • Karma: +269/-42
#4 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 25, 2021, 01:46:48 pm
Thanks for the beta everyone! I just took delivery of your guide Dave (it's great, well done, my palms are well and truly sweating) so I reckon I'm set for Glendalough (or Gravity if it rains).

Is Solidarity worth a trip? I remember seeing it ages ago on a Beardown video and have wanted to do it ever since. How is if one one's own, it looks quite high?

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1541
  • Karma: +152/-3
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#5 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 25, 2021, 02:38:34 pm

Haven't been to Glenmalure, Glendasan, Lough Dan etc. They each look amazing. I'm surprised more people on here don't talk about Ireland, Wicklow is amazing and close. The only places I came across others were Glendalough and the Scalp. All the spots mentioned above are in beautiful locations. Ireland is great!


Yes, I'll 2nd that.

I was over there for a few months in 1997, with Mr JR, John Allen, Martin Veal and others.
Working at the time.

Lough Dan and Glendalough are both fantastic areas - as is the rest of Wicklow, and would love to go back. Beautiful place, and yes, a great destination for a trip.

All the locals will have retro-claimed all the problems we did at Lough Dan though. Tssk. What can you do ;)

Edit: we were staying at the YHA in Dun Laoghaire, so would pop down to Dalkey Quarry in the evenings too. Well worth checking out.

2nd Edit. There's a great top-rope problem at the nearby Basher's Harbour (Dn Laoghaire) called Lardy's Layaway .. but you'll have to ask Mr JR about that ;)
« Last Edit: October 25, 2021, 02:49:41 pm by DAVETHOMAS90 »

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1199
  • Karma: +16/-1
#6 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 25, 2021, 04:23:59 pm

Is Solidarity worth a trip? I remember seeing it ages ago on a Beardown video and have wanted to do it ever since. How is if one one's own, it looks quite high?

Its a great problem; fantastic line and climbs nicely on either side.  Depends on what state the landing is in - we did some drainage work when we first did it - flip side is the landing is pretty soft- think I did it with a single mat.

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#7 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 26, 2021, 09:50:26 am
Re Solidarity. Worth a trip I'd say. Lovely walk along the river. Try and choose a nice day as it's pretty exposed. Plenty of other good stuff up there as well. One pad would be ok, but bring a tarp as the landing can be soggy. Andy Rob's first rate irrigation needs a bit of work. Almost 20 years old now Andy!

Dave Flanagan

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 733
  • Karma: +29/-0
#8 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 26, 2021, 09:51:56 am

All the locals will have retro-claimed all the problems we did at Lough Dan though. Tssk. What can you do ;)


2nd Edit. There's a great top-rope problem at the nearby Basher's Harbour (Dn Laoghaire) called Lardy's Layaway .. but you'll have to ask Mr JR about that ;)
Dave would love to hear about what you did in Lough Dan and that toprope in Bullock? All distant memories now but would be good to know anyway...

DAVETHOMAS90

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Dave Thomas is an annual climber to 1.7m, with strongly fragrant flowers
  • Posts: 1541
  • Karma: +152/-3
  • Don't die with your music still inside you ;)
#9 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
October 26, 2021, 10:12:07 pm
Dave,

will drop you a line later  ;) :thumbsup:

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8725
  • Karma: +269/-42
#10 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
November 03, 2021, 10:16:45 am
Due to frustrating circumstances, I now can't take my van and have to fly. Tempted to rent a car and a mat. Is there anywhere to rent a mat? Failing that, can anyone put me in touch with some psyched boulderers that can give me a lift out?! Ta...

roddersm

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 289
  • Karma: +1/-1
#11 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
November 03, 2021, 10:50:50 am
If you flying to Belfast then Boulderworld rent mats, otherwise try Gravity.... 

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +517/-28
#12 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
November 03, 2021, 12:35:04 pm
Have you considered the ferry? Unlimited baggage allowance so can take pads on (it all goes in the freight van, no need to carry on anything except for what you want). 30 flat rate each way as foot passenger to Dublin. Rent car in Dub. Only logistic will be getting taxi from Dublin port to car rental place, although they might drop it off at the port if you ask.
Can leave a car for free in Holyhead on the local estate 2mins walk from port (Stena charge for their carpark), I've never had a problem over the years but I guess it depends how long you're over for. Otherwise the train goes to Holyhead port.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8725
  • Karma: +269/-42
#13 Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
November 03, 2021, 12:39:45 pm
Yeah, the issue is time spent driving counts as working so I can't legally do the drive in the timeframe I have for travelling, hence having to fly.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2021, SimplePortal