Quote from: JackPal on September 26, 2021, 11:03:12 amQuote from: remus on September 26, 2021, 08:26:30 amAccording to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.Jim Pope.Interview with him here.https://www.climber.co.uk/news/pope-gets-second-ascent-of-prisoners-of-the-sun/Interesting comments, including:- Only spent 45 mins on a top rope before the lead.- Felt like an E8 6c experience.- Maybe casting doubt on some of the E7s on that wall.Jim's certainly feeling strong at the minute
Quote from: remus on September 26, 2021, 08:26:30 amAccording to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.Jim Pope.
According to the UKC logbooks James Taylor's route Prisoners of the Sun, E10 has had a second ascent. Hidden logbook though so not sure who. My money would be on Angus Kille.
Super impressive. 7c+ with a 7B+ section sounds an unlikely combination.
7B+ to a trivial jug ladder (7a or whatever) is about 8a.
Quote from: jwi on October 01, 2021, 10:10:51 am7B+ to a trivial jug ladder (7a or whatever) is about 8a.Very keen to know the names of some of these routes for a potential quick 8a tick
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on October 01, 2021, 10:18:10 amQuote from: jwi on October 01, 2021, 10:10:51 am7B+ to a trivial jug ladder (7a or whatever) is about 8a.Very keen to know the names of some of these routes for a potential quick 8a tick Subculture
I think Out of My Tree and Rattle & Hump might be the sort of thing you’re after Liam.
Quote from: cheque on October 01, 2021, 12:39:35 pmI think Out of My Tree and Rattle & Hump might be the sort of thing you’re after Liam.If there's one thing a full season of sport climbing has taught me, it's that there's a lot more to successfully climbing a route than just being able to do the hardest boulder problem on it; doesn't make the rest of it easy!
Quote from: Bradders on October 01, 2021, 10:02:46 pmQuote from: cheque on October 01, 2021, 12:39:35 pmI think Out of My Tree and Rattle & Hump might be the sort of thing you’re after Liam.If there's one thing a full season of sport climbing has taught me, it's that there's a lot more to successfully climbing a route than just being able to do the hardest boulder problem on it; doesn't make the rest of it easy! I wasn’t saying that I personally subscribe to the “sport routes with boulder problem cruxes are easy” philosophy (I fell off A Little Extra after doing the hard bit on more than one occasion ) just that those are short 8as with boulder problem cruxes.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on October 01, 2021, 10:18:10 amQuote from: jwi on October 01, 2021, 10:10:51 am7B+ to a trivial jug ladder (7a or whatever) is about 8a.Very keen to know the names of some of these routes for a potential quick 8a tick As a weak sport climber who has managed to stuggle up 2 or 3 soft touch 8a's (Defcon anyone ) , 7B+ sounds a likely a bloody hard way to get a quick 8a tick
Quote from: IanP on October 01, 2021, 10:37:16 pmQuote from: Liamhutch89 on October 01, 2021, 10:18:10 amQuote from: jwi on October 01, 2021, 10:10:51 am7B+ to a trivial jug ladder (7a or whatever) is about 8a.Very keen to know the names of some of these routes for a potential quick 8a tick As a weak sport climber who has managed to stuggle up 2 or 3 soft touch 8a's (Defcon anyone ) , 7B+ sounds a likely a bloody hard way to get a quick 8a tick Depends on lots of factors doesn't it. I do genuinely reckon Subculture does work out roughly to a (very long - 17 moves or so) 7B+ boulder followed by 7a climbing to the top.
It is absurd to think that Font 7B+ could be the crux of a 7c+, its far too hard for even the most bouldery route to be graded that easy (!) regardless of how easy the rest of it is, it would be at least 8a IMO. I reckon Jim doesn't really appreciate this and didn't really notice how hard the crux as it felt easy to him. Its problematic to grade something for somebody though...
Start up Big Zipper Direct, passing 3 bolts (Possibly Font7b+ on its own). Rest on the ledge and continue up the RH side of the impressive arete above. Always needs a clean and is only F7c if you're an F8b climber...
E8, E9, E10, E11 - none of it makes any sense. Why is everyone so stupid? 7B+/7c+ with highball start is all we need to know.Even '7a' is ridiculous....covers font 7A-8A!
It is absurd to think that Font 7B+ could be the crux of a 7c+, .
Sorry but no way is the start of Subculture that hard!But also tricky to give a boulder grade to. I'd say it was a 7c or 7c+ to the rest.
I'm glad we're singing from the same hymn sheet then. Funny that there doesn't seem to be any guidance anywhere written down to delineate these matters. E.g. just as an example for short bouldery routes where the main event is the crux:Font 7A crux - French 7c...sorry can't think of one...Font 7A+ - French 7c+ (The Pinch Test, Rubicon, The Maximum at Malham)Font 7B - French 8a (Rattle and Hump/ Out of my Tree)Font 7B+ - French 8a+ (Energy Vampire)Font 7C - French 8b (Magnetic Fields/ Revelations)Font 7C+ - French 8c (Make it Funky). Shame that Pump up the Power 8a+ breaks this system with a Font 7c+ crux!! albeit with next to no other climbing