[User deactivated.]

It's well established that testosterone declines after 30 in males at around 1% per year (on a population scale).

It's also well established that testosterone drops off a cliff if you sleep less than 7 hours per night, are too fat or too skinny, drink alcohol, smoke, etc.

Therefore it seems reasonable that if you optimise all of the above, then at 60 you could expect to make as many gains as an unhealthy 25 year 

[Stu Littlefair]

Here's some N=1 anecdote to explain what I think. I have been training in some sense since Uni.

Over the years my training has got better and more refined. In some ways, I'm stronger in my 40s than I was in my 20s - e.g my FB hanging scores are better. In other ways I'm physically much weaker - my body is weaker (pull ups, compression, heel hooks etc). Overall I'm climbing better.

But overall, my physical peak was definitely in my 20s. Back then I could manage the training without difficulty and would improve no matter what I did. These days I can't handle a large volume of training; most climbing sessions finish because various tweaks and muscles/joints are sore, not because I'm tired. In my 20s I could climb 4-5 days on without trouble, these days two in a row is hard work! In my 20s I was improving despite going cycling, running, having long drinking binges. Now any drift of focus away from climbing leads to decline.

So I'd say I'm climbing as well as ever in my 40s, but that's despite a decline in my physical ability and because of life choices I'm able to make.

Someone who only started serious training in their 40s, or someone who had kids in their late 20s will obviously have different stories...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - exhausted. Loaded carries.
Tue - rest.
Wed - EMOM weights.
Thu - gym, cleans with 10" hold on each rep 5x5 60 65 70. Weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - TBDL 5x30 60 kg. Last 10 30" EMOM.
Sun - Doms, who would have thought it. 25' of loaded carries.

[JohnM]

M - Shoulder stability (2 armed scap pulls, one arm hangs scaps engaged). One arm hangs BM2000 slots. I had been doing these at home to try and address my inability to even hold bigger edges one armed which seemed to be the main limiting factor in my one arm hang training. I still suck at it but it turns out I don't suck as much as I thought as the fact my home set up flexes makes a big difference to the difficulty. Campus progressions. I suck at campus boarding too but I am really enjoying it at the moment. I have never broken 1-4-6 on any hold size so I am working on that. Doing 1-4-7 in reverse to try and stimulate the movement using negatives. 8c replica boulders - didn't get anywhere with these this session. Comp style boulders on the spray wall set by a friend. Got shut down on everything and could barely do a single move.

T - Route session indoors. Pretty rubbish session. Did a few things up to 7b and had a good go on a 7c but that was it.

W - Trail run 12.94km 539m

T - Routes at Achleiten with Chris S. Warmed up on a grim 7a,. Failed on a 7b I onsighted a while ago, tried an 8a+ described as a single move (couldn't do the single move), failed on a 7c I had done before and finished by failing on a 7b. The outdoor climbing failure continues. Low energy and lack of confidence at the moment it stalling things.

F - Trail run 12.94km 500m

S - Climbing at Schleier. Got my clips out of Mercy Street (8c) which had been there since the spring. This was still wet and covered in grime again. Amazing route but I have sacked this off for now as you either need to be way stronger than the route to counter act the conditions or put in a siege by going week in week out. Neither of which are likely for me. Tried an 8a+ (Damen Gambit). This was a lot of fun. Big moves between huecos and then a tricky crux at the top. Got into the crux on my first rp but then tore a huge flapper and had no juice in my 3rd try. Still not a successful outdoor session but a lot more positive and enjoyable than recent ones and my energy levels were a bit better. Got a bit of a cranky left shoulder though which I need to rest and sort out.

S - Bike ride 52.77km 992m.   

[SA Chris]

So I'd say I'm climbing as well as ever in my 40s, but that's despite a decline in my physical ability and because of life choices I'm able to make.

Indeed, going out and getting lashed at least one evening a weekend  and being tired and hungover also ate into a lot of my free time.

I'm also less injury prone in my older age, not sure if it's being more sensitive and sensible as soon as a niggle arises, or if I'm basically held together with scar tissue now.

[Nibile]

Climbing performance will never be a valid assessment of long time strength levels, because of the subtleties, intricacies and variables of a successful redpoint attempt, whose mysteries are still largely unsolved.
One could test oneself on the very same route or problem, but conditions will vary, etc. and given it's a strength route or problem.
Not to mention trusting grades... it's like having soup with a fork.
The only way is to test abilities sepatatedly: fingerboard, pull ups, the basics.
In this case then, it will all depend on how close one was to his potential when age was perfect. A badly trained or half arsed trained youth is likely to improve with age, changing mindset, lifestyle, etc.
But if you look at pros, who fulfill their potential when their potential is highest, they are generally done and dusted by their 30s especially in pure strength sports. 
It's just physiology.

[Bonjoy]

But if you look at pros, who fulfill their potential when their potential is highest, they are generally done and dusted by their 30s especially in pure strength sports. 

Succinctly put.
Most UKBers don't fit this profile. Arguably until relatively recently neither did many 'pro' climbers. You'd expect as standards go up across the board it will get increasing rare for climbers considered 'good' by these standards to continue improving in a meaningful way in the later decades of their climbing life.

[Wellsy]

It's well established that testosterone declines after 30 in males at around 1% per year (on a population scale).

There is of course an *ahem* known solution to test drop off, so to speak.

[Wellsy]

Anyway...

Personally I'm 32 next week and probably have years of getting stronger ahead of me because I'm piss weak comparatively.

I think if you're doing one armers then year you might be looking at easing off, but not for a few years. I'm not really close to that. I would have been way stronger if I started climbing at the age of 19 rather than nearly 30, but I didn't, and the gains will go on.

[ali k]

Re: strength and ageing. The moral of the story for me is I wish I'd discovered sport climbing and concentrated on getting strong in my late teens and early twenties instead of pissing around on grit slabs and trad bumbling.

[Fiend]

Re: strength and ageing. The moral of the story for me is I wish I'd discovered sport climbing and concentrated on getting strong in my late twenties and early thirties instead of pissing around on grit slabs and trad bumbling.

[User deactivated.]

Re: strength and ageing. The moral of the story for me is I wish I'd discovered sport climbing and concentrated on getting strong in my late twenties and early thirties instead of pissing around on grit slabs and trad bumbling.

The moral of the story for me is I'd be a lot better if discovered climbing in my late teens and early twenties instead of doing loads of acid in warehouses (but I wouldn't take it back for anything).

[ali k]

The moral of the story for me is I'd be a lot better if discovered climbing in my late teens and early twenties instead of doing loads of acid in warehouses (but I wouldn't take it back for anything).

But imagine if you'd done it the other way round though? You could've already climbed 8C and 9a and now be retired from climbing and off your tits instead...

[Bradders]

Was hoping others would pick Liam up on the decline comments. Being 32 also I am 100% sure that my best climbing is ahead of me.

I recently listened to The Nugget Podcast with Steve Mc and he had some great thoughts around this. Very inspiring.

Anyway...

M - knackered from the weekend and a long day at work.

Tu - AM wrist session; pinch grip pick ups, fist press ups, etc. Then pick ups fingerboard session, 10s x6 of each of false grip, front 2 and middle 2 half crimp. Weight up from last time I was on 10s "hangs" a few weeks ago. Then another long day at work.

W - drove to London and back for my uncle's funeral; 8.5hrs of driving plus stops. Knackering but very glad to be there. Inspired by the bouldering service stations thread stopped in at Forest Rock on the way home. Repeated Sourcier in a few goes and then struggled my way up Sorceress, followed by the sit on a last go best go attempt. I find this style so hard! Brilliant way to break up the journey at least, although I didn't get home until after midnight.

Th - long day at work. Knackered. Bed early.

F - AM wrist session same as Tuesday, then fingerboard 8x 10s half crimp on 26mm edge, 3 min rests. Upped weight added to +37kg and completed all hangs which was satisfying.
PM - got my 2nd vaccine jab at lunchtime, then after work had a 1.5hr board session. Mainly focused on a project where I've previously done all the moves but haven't linked, and made up two new problems with 2/3 very hard moves each. Didn't do many of the individual moves on all three problems, and I don't think I linked two moves together at all! Finished with 6x easy-mediums with +4.5kg weight belt.

Sa - suffering from pretty bad vaccine side effects; everything aching, exhausted, headache, etc. Sat on the sofa all day.

Su - feeling better after a big sleep thankfully. Didn't have much time but squeezed in a quick circuit at Almscliff. Felt like hard work, fell off things I haven't fallen off for a long time, but still did ok eventually. Sunset delivered. Unfortunately had to end early and rush home to take wife to hospital for a baby check, thankfully all ok but meant for a stressful and late night.

Awful week. Not doing well with the stress levels atm what with work being very busy and wife at 38 weeks pregnant now. Nice to still snatch a few sessions though.

[SA Chris]

At least she hasn't left it until the week before to decide that you ned to redecorate the baby's room.

[User deactivated.]

The moral of the story for me is I'd be a lot better if discovered climbing in my late teens and early twenties instead of doing loads of acid in warehouses (but I wouldn't take it back for anything).

But imagine if you'd done it the other way round though? You could've already climbed 8C and 9a and now be retired from climbing and off your tits instead...

living the dream

[steveri]

57 and getting worse at getting better. We're all samples of 1 but training now seems essential rather than optional (durr!). If I just climb outside, which I'd always do if there's weather, I get weaker. I'll generally take that in exchange for the joy of moving over rock. If I want to knock off some (modest) projects, I need to try harder indoors. Two weeks off on hols, work, blah and I can't get up stuff I really should. Running wise there's been definite step change in the last year or so. Embracing the shuffle. N=1, T&Cs apply.

[SA Chris]

Running wise there's been definite step change

Quality punning.

[Wood FT]

The moral of the story for me is I'd be a lot better if discovered climbing in my late teens and early twenties instead of doing loads of acid in warehouses (but I wouldn't take it back for anything).

But imagine if you'd done it the other way round though? You could've already climbed 8C and 9a and now be retired from climbing and off your tits instead...

The hangovers. The horror, the horror....

[RobK]

M - Boardroom. Conditioning: one arm negatives, dips, ice cream makers (one leg assisted), ab roll-outs. Circuit board: 10 x 1 on/off on the 6c (half with good feet, half with bad feet). Warm down on some easy bouldering. Stretching (30 mins).

T - Dinbren after work. Back on Out of Body Experience. First go my aim was to look at the traverse but had forgotten to warm up and was climbing like a sack of potatoes. Think I figured out a sequence for after the traverse to the end of the hard climbing. Second go got stuck into the traverse, all done off a toe hook and made some progress. Also got through the bottom boulder first time minus the lunge to the jug. Third go properly dialled the traverse. Only missing piece of the puzzle now is how to clip 4th. Such a cool route, never done such wild moves on a rope.

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F - LPT. Had promised myself one more session on Mussel Beach this year with good skin and well rested to see if it was on or not. 1st RP got up to the crux feeling great, matched the flake and got my feet set before I was robbed by a foot pop. Marginal new high point, game on! Or not. Second and third RPs were much like previous sessions, feeling pretty gassed in the crux and not making any progress. Not sure what to think. Twenty minutes of easy bouldering at the Boardroom to warm down.

S - Dinbren. Good conditions and back on OOBE. Worked out a nice sequence for clipping fourth. Started redpointing and surprised myself by fairly consistently getting through the bottom boulder.. Highpoint of getting set up for the last move of the traverse before toe hook popped out. Tweaked my left bicep again slightly.

S - Boardroom. Too tired for a productive session outdoors but was bored so went for a potter. Easy boulder mileage and some auto-belays too. Stretching (30 mins).

[Duncan campbell]

. Just being realistic but maybe a breakthrough will happen 🤞

It happened! Just did the AM headwall in oner. YYFY 

Get it redpointed!!! Massive rest before hand means you can defo do it on the link then the rest under the roof and then a bit into crucifixion headwall mean that it is on for sure now.

[shark]

Thanks Duncan. Was on top rope but the clip is straightforward. Been meaning to swap notes on the sequence you used. Uncomfortable no hands rest is possible in the Prow hole with a kneebar. Font 7A+ for the AM headwall?. Reckon it is probably pumpy 7c after the headwall finishing up Crucifixion. Ive had to stabilise two of the holds on the crux. All possible on paper now. Currently struggling on the Push Up start for some reason even though I’ve done it dozens of times in the past

[Duncan campbell]

Thanks Duncan. Was on top rope but the clip is straightforward. Been meaning to swap notes on the sequence you used. Uncomfortable no hands rest is possible in the Prow hole with a kneebar. Font 7A+ for the AM headwall?. Reckon it is probably pumpy 7c after the headwall finishing up Crucifixion. Ive had to stabilise two of the holds on the crux. All possible on paper now. Currently struggling on the Push Up start for some reason even though I’ve done it dozens of times in the past

I’m notoriously bad at sequence remembering but send me a Facebook message and I can try and remember. Heel on the sloper was key for me and then just being quick on the feet up the Gaston’s! Can’t be 7A+ can it? More like 6C? I haven’t a clue in all honesty.

I just stood on the good footholds and held jugs in the prow hole. Seem to remember a bit of a finger lock in there somewhere. Prefer that sort of rest if it’s good as it doesn’t rinse the core so much.

You only need to do the start once!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Missed a week as was away so playing catch up...

M: Nowt
T: AW - Onsighting up to F6c+
W: Nowt
T: AW with daughter - Autobelays up to F7a, two more moves on F7b+ (only two to go). Foot on campussing - 3 x 50 move sets with 5 mins rest... Pumped!
F: Rest
S: Horseshit with GF and daughter - biffed up to F6a+ and set up TR's
S: Played dancehall to a big crowd at Equinox festival - smashed it!