[shark]

11.3-6 average 158.2 down 0.8lbs

M. AM FB Warm up. Tor with Nick for 10am 11 degrees and rainy to begin with but somehow shorts weather. Frigged up to AM headwall. Did a couple of sections and felt good then tried from Prow hole. Got to highpoint but only came off because front 2 gaston felt greasy. Went down. Second go same drill but got a move higher by going off a lower less slippy gaston. Progress - new highpoint. After had a leisurely go on Bens Without on my own despite thin skin. Did all 4 moves of crux middle section in isolation then had several goes on the first section but didn’t manage to link it.

T. PM FB warm up. Foot on campusing laddering 6 sets between 35 and 24 secs. Early Eve. Systems board laddering between 94 and 45 secs. Good gains both sessions

W.

T.

F. Tor Early AM with Nick. Strange weather. 13 degrees and blue skies on the tops with an arresting lattice of vapour trails and a cloud inversion over Hope/Derwent Valley with temp dropping to 6.5 going through Stoney. After Monday’s highpoint was expecting an awesome day but pulling off the ground immediately I felt like shit. Did badly on the crux section. Had another tie in but same story. Guess I overdid it on Monday and Tuesday 

S.

S.

Emergency PE training seem to have elicited some marginal progress on the route on Monday but kicking myself for unwittingly sabotaging Friday’s session.

Rather looks like I’m going to end the year empty handed. Whilst I’ve got fit by going on routes it’s apparent that’s not been sufficient and the endurance base I had in the distant past isn’t there any more and will need to take it to another level if I’ve a hope of getting my projects done next year. Therefore going to incorporate regular PE and AnCap training this winter.

Next week back at Tor Monday and Thursday and have time to train Friday morning then having a 5 day break as heading off to Berlin where Sonia is running the marathon

[Wood FT]

Next week back at Tor Monday and Thursday and have time to train Friday morning then having a 5 day break as heading off to Berlin where Sonia is running the marathon

Bit of very interesting climbing on one of the Flak Towers if you can grab an hour.

[duncan]

Simon, good to hear a small number of sessions has produced some benefit. Shouldn't you stick with this, doesn't feel like the season is coming to an end yet does it?

Enjoy Berlin, it's a great city.

M - Fingerboard 18mm edge bodyweight hangs x10 seconds. Shoulder tolerated this. Single leg squats.
T - Shoulder rehab. / conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability. External rotation end range in elevation. Handstands.
W - Llanymynech Quarry (new crag #12) with Dizz, Karl, Tom, and Jack. Bumped into the JD and DG, a couple of blasts from the past. Warmed-up on Curfew (6b+) then did The Deep (6c+, went smoothly) and Grid Iron (6c, less so: resting between routes and waiting for the shade would have been sensible). Warmed down on The Stringers (6b) and Bah Bah Black Sheep (6a+, with E2 bolting and rock quality).
T - Shoulders. Yosemite climbing presentation to a bunch of Hazel Grove 8 year olds, best audience ever!
F - Westway autobelay: 3-4 laps up and down (6-7 minutes on) with a moderate pump - 6-7 minutes rest x 8 sets. A good session. Shoulder conditioning. The lad’s birthday party, which involved 10km walking.
S - Battered. 10km walking. Some DIY.
S - Shoulders.

Liked the climbing in Llanymynech Quarry. Surprised how big it was - covering two countries! - and enjoyed the Avonesque nature of some of the routes. Looks like it will make a good winter venue, a decent alternative to the south coast in the 6s to mid 7s. Happy to flash a 6c+. Now to do the same on trad.?! En route to N Wales as I compose this, fairly psyched...

[shark]

Bit of very interesting climbing on one of the Flak Towers if you can grab an hour.

Cheers. I’ll need the break and it’d be unfair on Sonia

[shark]

Simon, good to hear a small number of sessions has produced some benefit. Shouldn't you stick with this, doesn't feel like the season is coming to an end yet does it?

I’m going on my slow progress which suggests I’m unlikely to tick. I’ll still keep at it trying hard till it starts to seep but my expectations are lower. Also keen to go back on Statement now temps are dropping but if anything I felt further away from ticking that than Cross N’Angry. Just being realistic but maybe a breakthrough will happen 🤞

[Coops_13]

M: DBC. Training phase 1, week 1, session 1. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ failed). Max hangs 7/53 *6hangs 18mm +30lb, felt like I could have done maybe 35lb. Boulder mini-project H- / M+, spent 23 mins trying boulders. Limit bouldering (35 mins) on the 30 degree board - re-sent a couple of boulders and made some more. Supplemental Strength Training. Three supersets - lock-offs with -20lb felt OK

T: Density pickups up to 40lb

W: DBC. Training phase 1, week 1 , session 2. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ failed). Max hangs 7/53 *6hangs 18mm +35lb, again felt like I could have done more. Boulder mini-project H-, made progress on one I was trying before. Limit bouldering (30 mins) on the 30 degreeboard - don't think I'm quite doing limit bouldering right yet... Short session as needed to get to a Brewery for drinks with old colleagues

T: Density pickups up to 40lb

S: DBC. Training phase 1, week 1 , session 3. Warmups involving contrast warm-ups (E+), one touch (M-), hovers (M), Three try repeat (M+ flash). Max hangs 7/53 *6hangs 18mm +40lb, felt like good intensity - 7 sets on Monday are going to be hard. Boulder mini-project H-, made progress on a new one. Limit bouldering (45 mins) on the 30 degreeboard. SST to finish

[Duma]

M - work, 12hr shift.
T - flicked through Ned's new book.
W - TCA, bouldering, more whites. Managed 3 I think, but no steep ones, which is what I should really work on.
T - TCA, circuits, 30° board. Did laps of a 7a+, 2ish mins on, 8 mins off. Got round 3 times, almost round 3 times, twice got 2/3rds and then got straight on the 6c, last lap did the 6c and then reversed it. Skin really painful.
F - UCR, recovery/aerocap, 10 min on/off x3
S - home board, 40mins fingery boulders while watching WC
S - Dinas, haven't been here for years, and never with a rope. A mate had done Skin Ed recently and recommended it so was keen for a look at that. Is a good crag for easies, did a couple of really nice 5c's, then OS Rob Roy (7a) which felt pretty steady, and got Skin Ed (7c) second go after a decent OS attempt ended just before the 5th bolt. Warmed down on Charlie's Rusks (6c) and Inflated Roundhead (7a+), pleased to OS them both, not sure how relavent techy vert 10m routes will be to Kalymnos though..

71kg

[Wellsy]

Monday: decided to pull hard on plastic this week and did a big Works session on the harder circuits. Felt good. Benched after.

Tuesday: rest

Wednesday: big Works session see above.

Thursday: smaller session with a bit of minor generic strength stuff

Friday: rested

Saturday: went to try Ultimate Gritstone Experience. Connies were dire but had a good go and did the stand to the top and the sit to the last move below the top. Skin was fucked entirely. Had a nice first date in the evening. Not going to go anywhere (though we did have a nice time) but I mention it because she asked me why I boulder, which has made me consider that its just what I do now, its baked in. I never miss training, I always go outdoors when I can, even when my psyche is truly shit I just keep going, which is an interesting thought for me? Introspective week anyway.

Sunday: Deadlifts, 2 sets of 6 reps at each weight (70, 90, 100, 110, 120) and barbell rows (8 at 50, 3 sets of 6 at 60) and 3 sets of 5 ring dips. Some very minor climbing some messing with campusing and some fingerboarding, all on wood to preserve skin.

Headgame: acceptable. Goals remain same and feel achievable.

[User deactivated.]

Busy work week.

M - max hangs in half crimp and 3 finger drag, 4 x limit board problems (didn't finish any), assisted iron cross, one arm chins, dragon flags.

T - finished work late and squeezed in a few moderate board problems, pistol squats and planche progressions.

W - nothing

T - nothing

F - Caley. It was a mistake. Tried pulling on to vicious streak, waite, and crystal method, but connies were shite and my skin was feeling fragile so called it a day, thankfully before splitting. Should have stuck to lime. 

S - Turned 32. Still getting stronger for now, but the physical prime is likely nearing its end. When I'm decrepit there will always be plenty of slabs to go at (as I do a good job avoiding them now).

S - Realised this week had been extremely low volume for climbing, so headed indoors to Last Sun Dance for the first time. Climbed without a plan other than to do lots of volume. Forearms felt worked. Probably need to do this once a week as limit board problems and outdoor projecting doesn't get many moves in. Enjoyed it too.

[Will Hunt]

T - board session. Penny, 36chambers, and Big L in attendance. 36 demolished lots of the established problems with ease (obvs). Did the project from last week. Onwards and upwards.

Su - Malham. Put the clips in New Dawn and it felt a bit warm. Later, a wind blew down the crag and it was time to go. Climbed to the top feeling very cruisy and in control. Was very conscious of how good I felt at the tufa rest and at the undercuts before the ledge. Felt fairly unstoppable. A great feeling after a couple of months in the doldrums.
Later, onsighted the rancid Brooklyn Girls and then flashed Against the Grain.
The day was capped off watching Tom Frost climb Bat Route. As he calmly pulled onto the ledge, Jim went full YYFY on the ground.
Then off to the Listers for a drink. Belter.

[Andy F]

S - Turned 32. Still getting stronger for now, but the physical prime is likely nearing its end. When I'm decrepit there will always be plenty of slabs to go at (as I do a good job avoiding them now).

Utter rubbish. 32 is no age at all. There are lots of climbers getting up their hardest stuff in their late 40's and 50's, even though they've been climbing for decades.

You've got years and years of improvements to come.

[abarro81]

Utter rubbish. 32 is no age at all. There are lots of climbers getting up their hardest stuff in their late 40's and 50's, even though they've been climbing for decades.

You've got years and years of improvements to come.

There are... But I'd wager there are many more who aren't than who are. Especially in 50s - those doing better than ever, having tried to be good for a long time, seem the inspiring exception rather than the rule...

[Andy F]

Utter rubbish. 32 is no age at all. There are lots of climbers getting up their hardest stuff in their late 40's and 50's, even though they've been climbing for decades.

You've got years and years of improvements to come.

There are... But I'd wager there are many more who aren't than who are. Especially in 50s - those doing better than ever, having tried to be good for a long time, seem the inspiring exception rather than the rule...

The decline in strength and fitness isn't as marked as people make out. I climbed my hardest grit bloc last year at the age of 49 and I'm no athlete.

From anecdotal evidence, I'd say climbers peak in the mid 30's to mid 40's.

[Stu Littlefair]

Off topic perhaps - but I wouldn’t confuse people’s best performance, which often comes in the late 30s or 40s, with their physical peak, which is almost certainly earlier.

An outstanding performance in later years often comes as a result of experience - better tactics, better technique - coupled with an increased focus on a single goal.

[Kingy]

Interesting discussion. Here is a quote from Gresh from his recent Keith Sharples interview for climber https://www.climber.co.uk/news/neil-gresham-talks-about-the-first-ascent-of-lexicon-e11-7a/?fbclid=IwAR0NQG-jUC2rk_tcmJ-RwqNfd6GEmSIOhDh0D44CmdPQ50fu5TmIXrXvdZc

"The fact is that in climbing, it isn’t age that makes you weak, it’s stopping strength training! Providing we keep things going and drip-feed the training in small, high-quality doses, not only can we maintain strength but we can improve, and I’ve hit countless PBs in campusing and deadhanging between the ages of 45 and 50. Climbing strength isn’t just about the ability to heave up some massive weight. It’s about coordination and neuromuscular efficiency and I think that with age, you start to understand this better."

[abarro81]

Tell that to my PIPJ, volar plate, lower back, right bicep, and inability to recover from big enduro training sessions 

and I'm no athlete.

That makes it easier to do PBs later.

From anecdotal evidence, I'd say climbers peak in the mid 30's to mid 40's.

32 is no age at all. There are lots of climbers getting up their hardest stuff in their late 40's and 50's,

I'd agree a lot of people do their hardest stuff from mid-30s to mid-40s (though plenty don't), but that strikes me a quite different to a claim of late 40s/50s (broadly a decade different)! Sure some will, but I'd wager it's very much a minority. Plus what Stu said about old people being boring and running out of routes to do quickly (I'm paraphrasing somewhat)

[Fiend]

Topic split time ofc, but that's an interesting interview.

It seems it's perfectly possible to get stronger in your 40s and maybe 50s. Assuming you're an extremely dedicated and disciplined semi-professional climber who has been pushing standards for over 20 years and has been a training guru for at least that long, of course.

[SA Chris]

Sacked off climbing for now, can't keep up any decent level of training with 40 hour working weeks, hectic life and running training. Will pick it up on the taper (2 weeks time!), as just booked 10 days in Fort William in October.

M - 6.5 km with a couple of hill reps.
T - some kettlebells.
W - 6.3 km hill reps
T - 10 km tempo
F - think some kettlebells, but probably nothing.
S - 26.5km run - humid, then just plain hot.  2 hour surf in evening. Thought I'd be knackered, but legs seemed to appreciate the cold water. Fun session in spite of it being mostly shore break close outs.
S - 12.5km run - hot as well. 5 km Scolty hill walk in the evening - kids left me behind.

[SA Chris]

Topic split time ofc, but that's an interesting interview.

It seems it's perfectly possible to get stronger in your 40s and maybe 50s. Assuming you're an extremely dedicated and disciplined semi-professional climber who has been pushing standards for over 20 years and has been a training guru for at least that long, of course.

Bollocks. I'm definitely climbing stronger now than I was pre-kids in my 40s, but as Stu said, that's mainly because of focus; not spending full days out in the mountains just to climb a 4 pitch route, no outcrop VS / HVS / E1 plodding, no hours spent at the wall going up and down 6s / low 7s.

Nowadays more about strength training and getting on local projects within 20 mins of home whenever I have free time.   

[remus]

It seems it's perfectly possible to get stronger in your 40s and maybe 50s. Assuming you're an extremely dedicated and disciplined semi-professional climber who has been pushing standards for over 20 years and has been a training guru for at least that long, of course.

I don't think it's so straightforward, as Barrows has said if you've been training hard for longer you're more likely to have picked up some chronic injuries along the way and milked any quick gains. On the other hand if you've not done much hard training before there could me more quick wins to be had (albeit any strength gainz will be harder won than if you'd started training earlier).

[Duma]

But surely what we care about is climbing level/ability, not strength. Climbing is complex enough that there are lots of other aspects to work on, and, dare I say it, those how spent their 20's milking the campus board may have more to gain in these other aspects?

[shark]

. Just being realistic but maybe a breakthrough will happen 🤞

It happened! Just did the AM headwall in oner. YYFY 

[Fiend]

(albeit any strength gainz will be harder won than if you'd started training earlier).

And you've got the golden opportunity to pick up some acute injuries due to lack of previous training, AND turn them into chronic injuries more effectively as your recovery is more difficult as you get older!

[Duma]

. Just being realistic but maybe a breakthrough will happen 🤞

It happened! Just did the AM headwall in oner. YYFY 

Nice!

[remus]

But surely what we care about is climbing level/ability, not strength. Climbing is complex enough that there are lots of other aspects to work on, and, dare I say it, those how spent their 20's milking the campus board may have more to gain in these other aspects?

  I was just responding to the Liam/Fiend etc. stuff where the question was whether you can still make strength gains as you get older.