Quote from: Paul B on September 20, 2021, 02:29:00 pmQuote from: petejh on September 20, 2021, 10:16:46 amIf a guidebook said a pitch I was about to try was 33m I’d expect it to be around 25-30.This has not been my experience when climbing in the USA (or generally outside of the UK).Perhaps I should have made it clear - UK guidebooks overestimate trad route lengths. Always, no exceptions. (Typed from a valley in Sligo with amazing undeveloped 50, no 60, no 70m cliffs!)
Quote from: petejh on September 20, 2021, 10:16:46 amIf a guidebook said a pitch I was about to try was 33m I’d expect it to be around 25-30.This has not been my experience when climbing in the USA (or generally outside of the UK).
If a guidebook said a pitch I was about to try was 33m I’d expect it to be around 25-30.
guidebook pitch lengths are a nominal length, the reality usually being very different. Probably comes partly from a concern about people abbing or lowering off ends of ropes because ‘the guide said it’s only 25m..’
If it is Blixt's guidebook to Kvaløya and it says that a pitch is 60m I would expect to be able to reach the belay with 60m doubles and some ten metres of simul climbing.
Totally off topic, but is Kvaløya good? Or rather, is it as good as people make out, and given a choice of there or Lofoten, which would you prefer? (I'm making the not outrageous assumption that you've been to Lofoten...) I've fancied a trip there for ages but don't know anyone who's actually been.
In terms of E10’s and above, I wonder if Steve has done more than anyone else? Rhapsody, the Nesscliffe one, a couple in Pembrokeshire, now this (prob missing some others too).
So Ste Mac has done it. Whatever the grade, super impressive to see him so psyched and still crushing at the highest levels.https://www.instagram.com/p/CUGKwg9I08O/?utm_medium=copy_link
My seconds were out of sight, and way down the wall as I look the ropes in, and I was amazed to see the middle marker just as the rope came tight. Yep, the massive 37m 2nd pitch of Redshift is actually 25m…Neil
Seems like every man and his dog's on it atm.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIBjWfIp8U/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_linkInteresting topic to discuss
I found this interview with Magnus Carlsen, the world chess champion, about cheating in chess to be fascinating (english cc)Basically everything he says can be applied to using banned substances or false claims.
How would one cheat in chess when playing face to face?
And I mean in rock climbing, where you don't even have to figure out how to pass a drug test? In comps you do, but not for going out and doing whatever? Yeah. Not that I remotely care if they are or think there's even anything really wrong with it tbh, not morally anyway.