[shark]

11.4-5 average 159.2 down 0.3lbs

M.

T. Tor. 7.30 to meet Nick. Overcast, still bit muggy. Two ties ins on Cross N’ Angry. Dogged to AM headwall. Holds a bit greasy. TRed from hole and despite getting flummoxed with sequence got to front gaston (3 moves off linking AM headwall). 10 mins rest. From hole to coming up to hold with LH. Came down. Next tie in tried to climb Push Up but came off. Need to bridge higher. Dogged to hole. Managed to lead to clipping bolt. From there to Crucifixion belay with falls
Eve. Max hangs. Marginally down on on Saturdays scores. Didn’t do drags

W

T

F Tor. Nick. Overcast. Still. Cooler than Monday but still a bit greasy. Similar session to Monday but with a bit of progress. Two decent attempts at linking AM headwall on first tie in and then led the whole route with 4 falls/rests on second tie in.

S. Lovely walk from Edale up to Kinder

S.

Didn’t get the link I was after. Couple more sessions at the Tor this week then I’ll have a break from it.

[User deactivated.]

M: max hangs, minimal edge, wrist wrench, dragon flags, leg raises

T: board session, handstand presses, front levers

W: rest

T: Froggatt for the first time. Ended up having a full session on Palmed and Dangerous, which was recommended as a first 8A on the basis that it requires lots of overhead pressing strength. I'm not sure if the crux moves through the roof even count as climbing, it's a mad sequence where you face forwards in contorted positions, palming off edges! I managed to do all the moves except for the reach to the jug rail where it meets ape drape, but I feel like I need more external rotation in my shoulder to do that move with my current sequence and will work on it. I can't see it being a difficult one to link once the moves are sussed, but it's not ready to go just yet. Did 4x4's on the 6C+ finish (ape drape) to end the session.

F: rest

S: Max hangs, minimal edge, one arm pullups, front lever rows (advanced tuck progression).

Later started feeling ropey with general cold symptoms, but with the addition of a strange and very specific ache in my back and hips that felt exactly as it did following the vaccine. Highly suspicious, I took the test and showed positive for covid. Damn! I was peaking nicely at the moment too!

S: Paracetamol and board session (home board obviously). Mediocore.

[Wellsy]

Monday: Board session for a couple of hours, made some problems for myself to focus on the deadpointing skills development. Really starting to value the board as a way to make moves that force me to do things in ways I normally wouldn't, as well as making problems with friends etc. Working with crap feet also v good. Afterwards did bench (40 for 10, 50 for 10, 60 for 5, 70 for 5x5, 60 for 10) and barbell bicep curls, 5x8 at 30.

Tuesday: rest, 20 minute jog

Wednesday: Anston. Did another one of the  7A+ link-ups on Apprentice Wall but my eye has been drawn to what I think is basically the combination of all the best moves on the wall; Spider Crab Blues 7B. Did all the moves after quite a bit of experimentation but was getting tired and not able to put together more than a link from the start to the second crux (the lock-off from the matched pinch to the right hand crimp). Feels like it could maybe go which is cool.

Thursday: rest. Felt fucking knackered.

Friday: Works for a circuit session for a couple of hours followed by a gym session.  Felt good to do some free movement. Weirdly I've got way better at outdoor climbing across the last six months but if anything slightly worse indoors. Oh well. Followed it by bench (couple of warmup sets at 10 reps, 5x5 at 60, 10 cooldown reps at 50) and deadlifts (70 for 6, 90 for 6, 100 for 3 twice, 110 for 3 twice, then singles at 120, 130 and 140).

Saturday: Friend was like "want to go and try The Lark Ascending" with me and I was like sure, sounds fun. That day I learned that grit still intimidates me a bit and I am really out of practice on it, definitely need to accept that a lot of this season will be just getting used to gritstone again. Got slapped around a bit, but did manage to do the first three moves including the crux move. I think that if I have another big session on it, and I'm fresh with good connies, I could get it done. It is a cool problem but man it slapped me around.

Sunday: rested with psyche feeling unusually low but with a trip out to climb today on the lime so happy about that.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Skipped max hangs at home and aimed to keep session shortish as off to Wales on Wed. Very good little board session. Did a few problems downstairs before realising I'd split a tip. Whoops.
T
W - North Wales. Utopia. Did Utopia Central, tried various things (The Pebble, Smooth Exit, Lefthand, etc) but didn't really get very far. Daughter did the Flake, which shat me up a bit and impressed the blokes who'd both looked quite sketchy on it. She did better than me on Lefthand but didn't finish it. Wavelength. She tried various things and then got stuck into the Groove. I did Central, tried Hellraiser and then got stuck into King of Drunks. Felt a bit sketchy bumping up from the crimp and landed a bit awkwardly a few times. Getting up to the top holds before the golf ball thing was ok, but holding it / landing on the best bit less so. Quite syked.
T - The Barrel. I wasn't really feeling it, and daughter was struggling with reach. She had a valiant few goes at Barrel Groove though which obvs suits small fingers and might be something to return to. Wandered down to the Cromlech boulders where I eventually managed to do all / most of the 6s on the roadside face. Had some late lunch and then headed to Milestone Buttress. Did some v easy things near the road, and then got shat up by Milestone Roof, partly thanks to various fast jets screaming past when I was in a precarious position. Went for a scramble / walk instead.
F - Back to Wavelength. Daughter did the Groove in a few goes, and then starts trying the sit version. I had a few goes at KoD and was fairly convinced it wasn't going to happen. Then a bunch of 20something lads turned up with about 10% body fat between them and I decided I ought to try a bit harder. I assumed they were going to flash everything but it turned out that they didn't find it any easier than me. Lots of good goes, matched on the top holds before the jug quite a few times, but it never felt quite right, and I'd not linked the sit start into the diagonal rail either, so after about 15x last goes and some bloody tips I gave up. Daughter eventually did the same on the Groove (the first move was fine, but she couldn't figure out the top section. second time) and there were tears. Long drive home.
S - Wall. Felt battered and tips were in quite a state so sat around for the first hour. Eventually started some easy stuff, and felt much lighter / smoother than previous session. Flashed some things I wasn't expecting to, then tried a big silly dyno (which I normally avoid at all costs) and caught it second go. Might do more of these.
S - 12km walk with the kids. 100.6kg

No booze. 2x weeks and I'm about 2.5kg down. More running this week hopefully. Thinking about a midweek Churnet trip in a couple of weeks time to test next round of progress.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM swimming 20 lengths, 12 at fast pace in blocks of 2.
Tue - EMOM weights.
Wed - gym, clean 60 65 70 70 70 kg 5x5 COT. Snatch DL + high pull 5x5 80 kg.
Thu - gym, DL 100 110 120 110 110 5x5. Weights.
Fri - EMOM weights. Loaded carries.
Sat - boxing bag, hill sprints.
Sun - rest.

[Bradders]

Mediocore.

Is this like a really half hearted core session or something?

Hope you feel better soon.

M - rest

Tu - pick ups fingerboard session. 6x 15s on false grip, 6x front 2 half crimp and 6x middle 2 half crimp, 1 min rests. Upped weights a little for f2 so am now at the same as I started with doing 10s reps a few weeks ago. Also upped m2. Tried hard on it.

W - back to Chee Dale Cornice in the evening. Poor conditions, very still and sweaty. Standard lap on War Memorial and then dogged Keep on Rollin to put the draws in. Three redpoints, first messing up the first harder sequence. Second, after a short rest (didn't untie) got to the last hard move but had forgotten to reposition my left hand, which makes it easier to stand up on the poor feet, and came off. Third go grabbed the 5th draw trying to clip it. Went to the top after resting there for 30 seconds.

Th - Kilnsey. Bon con. Did a slightly poor warm up lap on Directissima. First go on Subculture I was putting the clips in but still matched my high point, coming off going for the undercling with one hard move left to go. Second go came off in the same place; I hadn't placed my left foot well enough and it slipped. Third go came off 2 moves lower on the hardest move. Rested for a minute then went to the top from the 2nd bolt / 6 or 7 moves in. Good session, making progress, just getting closer and closer.

F - rest

Sa - AM fingerboard, 8x 10s half crimp 26mm edge +35kg 3 min rests, aiming to keep 2 seconds in reserve. Pleased, twice in a row now completing the session at that weight.

PM - warm up with wrist work then board session, finally got round to trying a very crimpy problem on my 25' board that I set ages ago but had never tried before. Did all the moves but kept dropping the third from the start. Quite pleased with how hard it felt. Rest of the session on the 45'. Good, moving well, trying hard. Managed a benchmark hardish problem I was doing consistently at one point but has eluded me for a while. Finished off with 6x easy-medium problems +4.5kg, up from 3.3kg last week, then some conditioning, leg lifts, dumbbell isometric holds, Arnold press, hammer curls and scapula exercises.

Su - DIY day, cleaned decking to prep for staining, built a semi-permanent gazebo, washed the cars, painted the kitchen and re-organised the shed. Knackered!

[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift. Eve run, 5k, hilly, off road, easy pace, didn't time it.
T - Eve Cheddar, Wave. I've not got much left to do here but partner wanted to finish off something and it's good for a short evening session. Bee Keeping in a War Zone, a horrible 6c+ to warm up. Then started work on Slix a Chris Savage 8a that wasn't repeated for ages, got upgraded to 8b in the meantime, but has had probably its 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ascents recently. It's basically a six move F6C or so to the second bolt, then one big span from the up with RH to a good sidepull, then easy ground to the finish. It's a pretty reachy move, but I could tickle the hold pretty consistently, and could do the move using the draw to set up. Will need another session to decide if it's realistic though.
W - nothing, drive to Pembroke in eve
T - Madman's Point for The Gong E2. Fantastic fun, great start to the trip. Then walked miles into Range West for a look at Pen y Holt stack. We had no guide but figured Making Passage, an HS would be comfortable enough - I then reversed from half way when surrounded by loose microwaves with no gear big enough for the breaks... Still, adventure is what you come here for.
F - Bosherston Head, Preposterous Tales. Not much more can be said about this, we had conditions about as good as you can hope for, and no big dramas. Amazing experience, one off the life list. Swim after, pretty much perfect day.
S - Quick DWS across Broadhaven Cove Traverse 7a in the morning, then rest of the day swimming around the coast, in and out of caves. Another brilliant day.
S - Crystal Slabs, did the the lovely and relaxed Razzle Dazzle VS before retiring to the beach again.

[Will Hunt]

Bit of a crap week feeling unwell for some of it. Tested negative.

M - Crookrise for guidebook photo session. Successful.

T - Sa - ill or family stuff.

Su - Kilnsey. Two dogs up Dominatrix. One for the future I think...

[RobK]

Sounds like a good Welsh trip, Yossarian. Those last moves on KoD certainly feel a bit wiggy. My mate came off and went halfway down the hill whilst muttering something about me eating a sandwich instead of spotting.

M - 30 minute run at a decent pace.

T - TRX session. Ts, Supermans and Rows. Less reps than usual as haven't done of these in a while. Still got the usual DOMs on Thursday.

W - Max hangs at +22kg. Dropped the weight a little as haven’t done these for a while and the garage was pretty toasty but was still failing on the last half.

T - Chapel Head Scar. First time here, what a crag! Warmed up on Tufa King Hard 6c. Amazing line of tufa jug pulling, didn’t know anything like that existed in the UK. In the sun it certainly felt hot enough that it could have been in Spain. Next up I tried Electric Warrior 7b. One go to work the moves and then went for a redpoint. Unfortunately the tufa crozzles took a fairly large chunk out of one of my tips. Blood everywhere and pretty much game over for the day. Had a top rope up Moonchild 6c+ at the end of the day with it taped up. Very keen to come back here at some point, so many good looking lines.

F - Was planning on exploring some Lakes bouldering but the finger put paid to those plans. Ended up going for a nice run up Helvellyn instead, glorious day for it. Glenridding - Striding Edge - Helvellyn - Dollywagon Pike - Grisedale Tarn - Glenridding. A little under 3 hours.

S - Rest. A planned weekend off climbing which lined up nicely with letting my finger heal.

S - Rest.

[Yossarian]

Sounds like a good Welsh trip, Yossarian. Those last moves on KoD certainly feel a bit wiggy. My mate came off and went halfway down the hill whilst muttering something about me eating a sandwich instead of spotting.

Yeah - I vaguely landed on a fairly svelte spotter at one point and was quite worried that I might've seriously injured him. I think I was going too high and missing the pocket bit, so when I tried to match I ended up with both hands on quite crap bits and the subsequent readjustment was what caused me to fall off. Looking forward to finishing it off next time, as it's very much my cup of tea.

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: GF Busted knee rehab walk along stanage - messed about on some blocs.
T: Auto-Belay Session @ AW - Warmup then F6b, F6c, F6b, F6a.. Rest 10 mins... F6a, F6c+, F6c (lob), F6a.... Rest 10 Mins... F6b, F6b, F6a, F6b... Warmdown... Trashed!
W: AW with daughter... She only went and led her first route!! Got a bit emotional  Did some auto belays up to F6c+ and dogged a F7a - Tired!
T: Rest
F: AW with GF - Her knee seems better. Routes up to F6c - Then it all goes south!! Finally get to go play loud, innapropriate dancehall to a crowd of people! No idea what time I went to sleep but it was late/early/late???
S: The mother of all hangovers!! 
S: Drive to N Wales - Still feeling terrible but stop at Castle Inn and do a few up to F6b...

Actually did a fair bit but paid the price, big-time, for going out and partying like I'm 20 years younger than I am... It's bloody Wednesday and I'm still not 100%!! Won't be doing that for a while as it pretty much spannered my N Wales trip (updates on abysmal performance next week yo!...)

Gonna keep up the momentup and psyche tho... High Tor planned for next Tuesday, fingers x'd the weather holds... Gonna get training on the steeper stuff for Kaly now and finally have an MRI booked for my stupid shoulder... All good!

[User deactivated.]

Mediocore.

Is this like a really half hearted core session or something?

I'd love to tell you that was on purpose, but alas, my spelling is clearly just poor!

[duncan]

Liam, hope you’re not too badly affected, as others have said take it easy and look after yourself. Mind how things go around day 7-10, which is when some people who have otherwise been doing OK can deteriorate.

Yossarian, sounds like a great trip. How long before your daughter is consistently burning you off?!


M - Bouldering Stronghold. A bunch of V3/4s. Managed to tweak shoulder.
T - Shoulder painful. Resumed Hip/Knee work, long overdue. Deep squats, single leg squats. Saw physio, conclusion is dislocated shoulder is still a bit too mobile, modified the rehab. / conditioning exercises a little.   
W - Shoulder painful. Squats.  Fingerboard pickups to 40kg.
T - 12km walk. Shoulder sore. Quads. absolutely spannered. 
F - Fingerboard pick-ups. Drove to Manchester. Shoulder sore.
S - 13km walk. Shoulder rehab. / conditioning: side planks focusing on end range stability.
S - Wilton with Fiend. New crag number 11. Warmed up on Christeena (not easy), then Ann (good), Dawn (excellent) and Cameo (word up!). Fiend led Sobeit, recently cleaned and equipped with lower-offs. Looks well worth doing.

Felt mentally and physically crap all week, not sure why, house sale falling through probably didn’t help. Easy Trad.^TM did help.

Plan: leg conditioning in preparation for attempting to resume running this autumn. Fingers max. at least once a week, easy volume indoors or out, as shoulder allows.