[dunnyg]

Should have scouted it out on your rambling days! I found it easily enough with the discription and I once got lost on the way to trevor rocks  It wasnt my first visit to attermire though which may have helped.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - Crookrise trad womble. Routes up to E1.

F - board session at friend's house. Managed to climb the new thing he'd set.

Su - had planned to go to Kilnsey but ill health meant I had to cancel.


I think my sport season has now been officially derailed! Hopefully September has nice weather and I can fit in some more fun routes.

[teestub]

I've had one previous attempt to look at this.  Followed the instructions in the unknownstones guide (well, I thought I did),  wandered around in the drizzle for more than an hour, and gave up.  Any tips on how to find it (or what3words / grid refs etc)?  I need a project for my post-wristknack autumn and Bullrider seems a decent candidate.

Would recommend Bull Wrangler rather than Bull Rider. I pulled the big flake in the roof off Bull Rider as it had become dangerously loose. The rock behind was chossy so not sure if it will be reclimbable without some stabilisation work.

Not sure how you can get lost with the Unknown Stones topo directions, you basically follow the path in the valley bottom below the sport climbing buttresses, go through 2 gates that are close together then smash straight up the hill.

[moose]

I might well have walked past it without noticing then (I'll admit I had my head down most of the time, because of the rain). I'd never climbed at Attermire, and for some reason forgot to take my sport climbing guide, so couldn't navigate by reference to routes.  I'll go better prepared next time...

[Duncan Disorderly]

DD: there are a fine selection of classic E3s at High Tor which rise above usual Peak lime trad. fare and are logistically not too complex. Doing all these would be a good target, after which Flakey Wall will feel steady (the left wing E4s not so much). The far right wing sport routes are not bad if you need to offer a carrot to non-trad. climbing partners.

Yea man - had planned Robert Brown and Lyme Cryme among others on Monday (we did Delicatessen and Darius the day before so seemed a logical progression) but the deluge stopped play... I think I'm the most likely candidate for the carrot of the sport routes on the RHS as my mate is a proper trad-head  ! Interested to hear that the E3's would be good lead ups to Flaky Wall rather than just getting on it tho... On paper it looks about right and the holds and gear all seem there, definitely not had much trad action in the last few years so pretty sure my gear placing is not on point but anything else I should be worried about? What would you give it as a sport grade (for arguments sake - I obviously know it's no clip up  )

[nai]

Perseus would be a good one to go for, reputation for spaced gear but it's all ok and felt like there was plenty of it to me.  Probably easier than Darius actyually

Flaky Wall just needs a bit of confidence in gear and trad fitness (i.e. standing around placing gear and contemplating moves). I went at it with too few leads, too litlle trust in gear and spent too long faffing. mAnaged to fall off at the top of the groove having just thought to myself "get that hold and it'a ll over".

[duncan]

Flakey would be about (Peak) 6c to top rope. The overlap might feel harder with the wrong sequence, the groove will feel sketchy if you can't protect it to your satisfaction.

I suggested the E3s as they are fine routes but also because nothing prepares me for trad. onsighting like trad. onsighting. If you've got plenty in hand and can switch to trad. mode quickly then just get on it!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Perseus would be a good one to go for, reputation for spaced gear but it's all ok and felt like there was plenty of it to me.  Probably easier than Darius actyually

I've actually got Perseus on my hit-list so will aim to do that first then 

I suggested the E3s as they are fine routes but also because nothing prepares me for trad. onsighting like trad. onsighting.

Sage advice!

Cheers chaps - now just gotta find the time to go back....

[cheque]

nothing prepares me for trad. onsighting like trad. onsighting

 

[SA Chris]

I'm hoping livestock, not human?

Crikey I hope so too.

Aye, it's not Spain.

[Fiend]

nothing prepares me for trad. onsighting like being massively overfit and having several sport grades in hand, and having no fear of falling onto good gear whatsoever

 

I was somewhat aghast to hear about DD's plans to get on Flaky Wall, given that, comparatively I've probably done more low-extreme trad leading this year (a leanish one) than he's done in the last decade, and I would still feel cagey and wary about trying something like FW (if I hadn't seconded it 25 years ago which TBH I still regret to this day and still puts me off doing it).

"How the flying fuck can he summon the psyche for that with so little trad building up to it??" I thought. I pretty soon worked it out - positivity and positive vibes, psyche untempered by fear of failing nor (probably) fear of falling, and probably buoyed rather than intimidated by "proper trad-head" partner's exceptional off-the-couch talent.

What that means is not very much except "positive metal attitude" can be factored into the list of preparative aspects quoted above