UKBouldering.com

Power Club 597 16-22 Aug (Read 5408 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 07:07:38 pm
11.5-6 average 159.5 up 0.2lb

M.

T. Home FB warm up. 7.30 at Tor to meet Karl. Breezy occasional drizzle 15 degrees. Autumnal. Two tie ins on Cross N’ Angry. Dogged to crux section (AM headwall). New sequence felt straightforward at first whilst fresh. Linked the moves past the bolt to the break but powered down so came down. Second go linked from Prow hole to clipping draw then shut down. Then after a few attempts managed from there to the break. Stripped it. T’red Tin Of comfortably to retrieve Karl’s draws. Abbed in from top of Prow. Bit unnerved by this now as I think the tree is an ash. Stabilised loose undercut and refilled behind where it had got bigger so it was first joint again. Dog walk and home.

W.

T.

F. 7.30 at Tor to meet Nick. 14 degrees Still and a bit muggy. 2 tie ins. First go did AM headwall in two sections. Going from hole somehow forgot what I was doing but even so linking through seemed way off. Dismayed. Cant picture myself doing it in a oner. Next go tried Push Up and failed on that. So nasty. Dogged to middle of AM headwall and tried old method and despite being tired it worked a treat especially when Nick reminded me of a bit of micro beta I’d forgotten. Felt annoyed rather than elated because I’ve invested so much time and energy over last few sessions perfecting what has turned out to be whack beta. Finished by 10am. Fancied having a play on Bens but a few hangs on the holds showed my tips were too thin and it was also getting hot so dog walk and went home.
Midday. As an alternative to archer pull ups experimented with an interesting bar exercise featured on CH4’s insta page which looks applicable to the AM moves

S. PM Max hangs on ergo edge. Best hangs HC+25kgsx8secs, FC+27.5kgx7secs and Drag+27.5kgx7secs. Marginal improvements on last session

S.

Booked this week with Nick for Tues and Fri at Tor. Crunch time to get the AM headwall link. Somebody remind me what success feels like

Coops_13

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1206
  • Karma: +75/-0
    • YouTube
#1 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 07:16:07 pm
M: DBC. Two finger hangs 10s up to -10lb *4sets. Felt really good intensity, gonna try and work these up to get my old injuries all fixed. Repeaters 20mm 7:3 X6 *6sets. 4sets -17.5lb, 1set -20lb, 1set-25lb. Pretty buggered from this. Some bouldering including two M+ flashes and an M+ 2nd go (V5ish). Weighted pull-ups 47.5lb X5 *5sets - might need to up weight a bit next time. Front lever pulls to finish. Great session

T: Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamsrting curl. Squat 165lb X5 *3sets. Density pickups up to +45lb. 50 ab wheel roll-outs. Lower body stretching

W: DBC. Two finger hangs 10s up to -10lb *2sets. Feeling weaker than Monday, theme of the session. Repeaters 20mm 7:3 X6 *6sets. 1set -17.5lb, 2set -20lb, 2set-25lb, 1set -30lb. Two M+ retro flashes and progress on an H-. Weighted pull-ups 50lb X5 *5sets - may need to retest 2RM. Deadlifts, 4 sets of 5 reps trying to get form right. These things are so complex. Filmed each set and set to missus who critiqued and sent back tips, Tried 185lb set at end but surprisingly tired off 135lb so form worsened. Crazy how shit I am at these, only way is up I guess!

T: 50 ab-wheel roll-outs, 50 horse squats. Lower body stretching

S: Lincoln Lake in the morning before my stag do. Absolutely baltic. Warmed up and did Steep Grades Sharp Curves V5, redemption for it hurting my pinky in June. Looked at a couple of other boulders before heading up to Bull Run, an amazing Jon Glassberg V7, probably more like V8. V hard and sharp but so good. Got close but no send, session fitness and skin running thin. Finished up trying to FA a rising arete after (would be V4 or 5) but no luck there as skin and body were tiring.


Gonna keep working the fingers over the next couple of weeks then going to start a training plan in September, psyched!

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 07:52:16 pm
Short term goal: 7A+ on grit next season

Monday: Went to Pleasley Vale, only really had a partial topo but seemed liked plenty to be doing there. Nice crag though, beautiful location and it was a lovely day. We knocked out a 6A+ warm-up and then a 6B+ which was a nice problem, a 6A which felt a little soft, and then worked on a 7A with a really lovely knacky first move that I didn't manage to do, the upper was fine, just that first move was dead tricky, very deadpoint-y (which led to me having an epiphany about what I need to learn to get better at, so was very useful). There was a local couple there trying some stuff, the lad showed me a line not on the topo we have, said it was 7A? It definitely was A Problem (basically a bunch of static moves on tiny razor crimps) but I flashed it. Suspect it's in the region of 6C/6C+ tbh as a result but oh well, was fun.

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: Board session at works focusing on deadpointing and making moves I simply cannot static. Felt like some good training; followed it with some light general strength work.

Thurs: Rest

Friday: Lighter board session at the works, few circuits, followed by bench press (5x5 65kgs plus warm-up and cooldown sets), rows at 50kgs and barbell curls at 30kgs.

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Had a very light session this morning as following turning up at works felt very weak, pumped and tired pretty quickly. Decided to instead spent more time passing on some of my limited wisdom to some nice new people.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#3 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 08:05:39 pm
M - took daughter to beach, couple of hours playing in the surf, then scrambled down to Spernic Cove after EGS had posted about it the other day. No mat and the beach was low enough that the landing was those head sized ankle breaking pebbles rather than sand, but persevered with a towel and a hoody to fill the worst of the holes. Couple of the easier things to start, then managed Breathe (6C) after a few abortive attempts when the landing outweighed my brave. Excellent problem on a perfect isolated boulder, well worth daughters ire at being dragged down the dodgy scramble. Made it up to her with visit to the best ice cream place in the world after.
T - nothing, hols
W - snorkeling
T - nothing, drive home
F - TCA, mostly blues (high 6's), but managed a couple of blacks (low 7's) too.
S - nothing, work
S - nothing, work

70.5kg

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#4 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 08:51:57 pm
Not much real climbing this week but visited a few crags to do some project shopping.

M: board

T: board, fingerboard and other strength training

W: Caley mostly just to meet some friends and take photos of them on high noon trad. Pulled on to vicious streak to see if it felt plausible. Could hold all the positions and did the stiff pull off the deck but didn't fancy trying to move between positions and wrecking my skin considering the heat. A worthy contender.

T: strength training

F: Almscliff project shopping on "rest day". Had a look at Chiasmata and climbed to the nose a couple of times, getting both my heels up, but bailed feeling my sweaty hands slipping on the slopers. I've seen lots of videos of people falling but not seen anyone hit the matterhorn boulder, anyone know if this has happened? I most likely won't have any spotters!

Looked at Zen afterwards (streaky's into matt's rooof), but can't be bothered with that, far too lowball and dabby. Finished with a quick look at the new compression problem near DMZ. Wow! Pulling on this and trying to hold the positions felt much harder than doing the same on vicious streak and the bits I touched on chiasmata. Didn't stay long as it was swarming with flying ants! Did DMZ sit to finish. Started left hand pocket, right hand arete, 7A ish this way, but probs easier in reasonable connies.

S: took an actual rest day this time

S: pulling strength benchmarking. 1 armers @ 84kg: 2.5 reps right arm, 1.5 reps left arm. Happy with that having only done super strict assisted ones at higher reps for a few months.

Happened to be driving nearby Widdop so called into Gorple to have a look at Chabal. Great line! This and Chiasmata are top of my list. I spotted a few other unrecorded lines too. Anyone know if lamping is ok at Gorple? It's quite out of the way and I didn't notice any farmhouses in view.






jamesturnbull97

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 119
  • Karma: +8/-0
#5 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 09:42:56 pm
I've seen lots of videos of people falling but not seen anyone hit the matterhorn boulder, anyone know if this has happened? I most likely won't have any spotters!

I hit it a couple of times, mostly it's fine but I had one awkward fall and split the back of my head open on it! Made sure I had spotters for all following attempts.

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#6 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 10:20:15 pm
I've seen lots of videos of people falling but not seen anyone hit the matterhorn boulder, anyone know if this has happened? I most likely won't have any spotters!

I hit it a couple of times, mostly it's fine but I had one awkward fall and split the back of my head open on it! Made sure I had spotters for all following attempts.

Thanks. Seems like it's genuinely dangerous without a spotter then.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#7 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 22, 2021, 11:20:27 pm
I've seen lots of videos of people falling but not seen anyone hit the matterhorn boulder, anyone know if this has happened? I most likely won't have any spotters!

I hit it a couple of times, mostly it's fine but I had one awkward fall and split the back of my head open on it! Made sure I had spotters for all following attempts.

Thanks. Seems like it's genuinely dangerous without a spotter then.

Yeah spotter 100% required on it.

I'm keen to repeat it this winter Liam, just give me a buzz if you want a spot.

RobK

Online
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 291
  • Karma: +14/-0
#8 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 08:36:40 am
M - Dinbren after work. One go up The Bandits to get the draws in and refine some beta and then got it on the first RP. Not without a fight though, I hadn’t really worked out the easier top section and it felt significantly harder when I got there boxed (shock!). Some power screams ensued and culminated with a desperate throw for the finishing jug which I held by the skin of my teeth. Love a good fight like that. Grade wise, I'm not sure it quite warrants the upgrade to 7c that some people say, but who knows. Had a lot of the evening left but, after essentially spending 6 days on the sofa, such an all out effort left me feeling pretty done in and I just belayed and enjoyed the sunset.

T - Boulder Hut after work. Couple of hours of mid-grade bouldering. Some pull ups to finish.

W - Rest.

T - Rest.

F - Kilnsey. Last time I was here I tried Truth Drug so thought I’d get a nice quick tick by finishing that off. Not so much, just seem to have a total mental block with this route for some reason and can’t remember the beta for the life of me and kept getting lost mid-route. A very odd feeling. Fell off the last hard move a couple of times. Would have had another go but needed to rescue my partner’s draws out of Visitation. Gave it a flash go but came off near the end of the initial steep section. Went up the groove at the end instead of stepping left to the arete as it looked drier. Think this is Vissy-Vu? Either way, absolutely stunning climbing and keen to finish it off next time.

S - Malham. Retro-flash of Rose Coronary to warm up. I then had a top rope up Wasted Youth (my partner had initially gone up as I wasn’t really paying attention and said it was RC, what absolute punters!). Felt pretty hard and was debating whether to have a redpoint or not as it felt pretty skin intensive. Gave it a go and surprised myself by pulling it out the bag first go, although I had to try pretty hard and thought I was off several times. Some nice moves. Maybe it squeaks in at 7b+ these days? Not sure. If it isn’t 7b+, Bongo Fury definitely is! Gave that a go next and got absolutely shut down. Decided to move on and finished with an onsight attempt of Free and Even Easier but came off at mid-height. Then had a redpoint and came off near the top unable to hold some jugs while clipping!

S - Malham again. In hindsight I might have been a bit tired by the end of yesterday, warmed up on F&EE putting the draws in. Had a dog up Space Race but I was absolutely buggered, turns out three days on at Malham/Kilnsey is hard work. If anything, my feet were the limiting factor! Stripped it, but an amazing route for sure. Finished with a few attempts of the left hand 7b finish to F&EE. Got close and tried hard but I was feeling absolutely ruined.

A cracking few days in Yorkshire. Keen to get stuck into some of the high 7/low 8 stuff at some point.



JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#9 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 09:29:26 am
M - Rest

T - Shoulder stability + core. Finger boarding (half crimp, middle two, back two, slopers), one arm hangs BM2000 large middle slot and upper outer slots, lower outer edges + 10kgs (2 arms x 5). I don't see finger strength as one of my weaknesses but I have never been able to hang edges one armed for very long. I suspect the main limiting factor is just being able to hang one armed and use my shoulder to stabilise the position. Therefore, I have started adding one arm hangs on big holds into my training to try and address this. It seems even if the hold is big I still struggle.

W - AM: Finger board warm-up, one arm hangs on big holds, NG PE session on Lattice rung (3 sets, -13kg). PM: Indoor routes. After failing on the 7a+ warm-up the session was really good - 7b+, 7c, 7c, 7b, 7b all onsight.

T - Trail running 13.4km 544m.

F - rest

S - Bouldering at Silvretta for the first time. Stunning location, but too much of a crowded German van scene going on and the walk up carrying two pads nearly killed me! I wanted to check out the classic 8A The Shining but it was too crowded so I warmed up slowly elsewhere and did some nice 6A-6Cs. I then managed a 7C (Fortuna) second go, which I would have flashed barring an initial bad pad placement. Therefore, I suspect this is not 7C (although everyone on 8a seems to take this grade) and I have definitely done harder 7As. I then moved on to The Shining which I almost flashed to the lip from 2 moves in. I tried from the sitter a few times but quickly split my tip on the savage second hold. I then climbed the top out after a few failed goes because of lack of commitment and then from the middle to the top which is also meant to get 7C but surely can't be. Either the grades are soft here or I have somehow managed to get better at bouldering by never going bouldering! Either way that is the best I have ever felt on a bloc style 8A so I am keen to go back in September with hopefully good conditions and less crowds and try again.

S - Routes at Geisterschmiedwand. I always think of this as a back up venue in dodgy weather but it actually really amazing and has so many classics. Warmed up on nice 6b+ diedral ramp and then tried the classic 8a+ Die Rose der Zeit. This is fully amazing and one of the best I have tried. I did the moves quickly but on my first redpoint, despite getting through the hardest crux, I could then barely hold on as the holds felt like butter in the heat and humidity. Sacked it off and then failed on a 7b and did an really nice 7a. One to come back for.

A good week and the last month of getting back into training seems to be starting to pay off. I definitely feel like I have a bit more snap on the wall, maybe from the campus drills I have been doing. Unfortunately my back has gone into spasm so I might have to take it easy this week.   

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#10 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 09:38:51 am
nice work on Bandits Rob, FWIW I wouldn't have argued with 7c for this.

RobK

Online
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 291
  • Karma: +14/-0
#11 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 10:05:17 am
Cheers Duma. Yeah, I probably wouldn't argue either really. Recently, I have increasingly realised how useless I am at putting a grade on something. Doesn't stop me trying though!

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7991
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#12 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 10:29:26 am
Power Club

Mon - snatch, high pulls COT. Weights.
Tue - boxing bag, jog + stairs.
Wed - high pulls, clean COT. Weights.
Thu - EMOM weights 30'.
Fri - swimming 30 lengths in blocks of 4.
Sat - rest (very little swimming).
Sun - AM swimming 32 legths in blocks of 4. PM 45' canoeing.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#13 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 10:39:53 am
M - Attermire to try The Matador. Thankfully only minor hangover despite a few drinks at wedding reception the day before. Mate had arrived earlier and figured out all the beta so I just warmed up on it, and suddenly had a magic go getting through the crux. Spat off immediately after. Rested and next go made it to the final sequence but just didn't quite have enough left to move through it. Next go dropped the last hard move! Unfortunately then had to leave. Only climbed for 2.5hrs.

Tu - rest

W - straight back to Attermire. Raining a bit on the walk in and forecast breeze non-existent. I could at least see the cave from the walk in (it sits quite high on a hill). When I arrived my mate, who'd been there a while, did Matador straight away. Unfortunately for me, the clouds then descended. Condensation everywhere. I did my best with towels and loo roll but it was a losing battle. Managed one good go getting to the end again but hands and shoes were soaked, as was the last sloper anyway.

Th - rest

F - AM fingerboard session before work, 8x 10s 26mm edge, all +35kg, 3 min rests. Good, first time I've managed the whole session at this weight.
PM board session after work, really good session. Managed a benchmark harder problem first go, good attempts on other stuff. Moving well. Finished with 6 mediums +3.3kg added weight, and then some conditioning.

Sa - 3.5km gentle run

Su - max pick ups FB session in the morning. 6x 15s each of false grip, front 2 and middle 2 half crimp, 1 min rests. Only had to drop weight very slightly from doing 10s version of this session over the last few weeks. Late afternoon / evening at Chee Dale Cornice. Ran a lap on War Memorial to warm up, felt eeeeasy. Spent the session trying Keep on Rollin, the direct finish to Old Man River which I did a few weeks ago. Sorted a quite different to normal sequence which basically climbs most of Old Man River. Couple of redpoints, on best of which I felt like I did the lower bit really well but opted to grab the crucial 5th draw as didn't have enough to clip it and didn't feel good enough to just power on. Hard clip! Did it in two halves at least so it's all there. Great route.

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1520
  • Karma: +91/-7
#14 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 11:21:15 am
What was the poo state at attermire? I had one fairly pooless session, then walked past one day and it was fairly well fertalized...

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2354
  • Karma: +351/-5
#15 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 11:30:28 am
2 weeks (and aiming to stick to this in future)

M- North Wales with daughter. Went to meet friends at Porth Ysgo pm which seemed to take an insane amount of time from Capel Curig. First time outside since meeting up with CSL at the Churnet in the spring. Daughter had an amazing time trying loads of stuff. I mainly shat myself and was convinced I was going to end up stuck in a hole with a broken ankle. We both tried Brain Spray without success. Mate did pr0n Makes Me Horny which looked quite hard. Fun times.

T- RAC boulders AM. Mainly enjoying all the frontside stuff. Sheep Pen pm - Ticked lots of nice lower grade stuff. Both got slightly stuck on the Gnasher / Toe Dragon area stuff. Had a lot of fun though. Then ridiculous 8hr+ drive home thanks to endless road closures.

W-Sun - Fairly shitty stressed-out week. Went to wall on Sat but mainly sat around feeling sorry for myself.

M - Initiated a major work / life reboot. Wall. Best board session in ages (probably thanks to not doing much the end of the previous week). Felt more like a connected unit and less like I was wearing a rucksack. Also made progress on my quite a lot too hard project downstairs. Left lots of fuel in the tank.

T - Assisted 1arms / weighted wide pull-ups / 90/120deg locks. Finally succeeded in not overdoing Mon pm so I could manage a strength session the next day - yay.

W - 9km walk. Pressups / KB press / squats, etc plus stretching.

T - 8km walk. Wall pm. Another best board session - managed 2 separate moves that I thought were a bit beyond me, and lined them into other things, repeating them a few times. Quite syked by this.

F - 8km run.

S - Wall. Felt a bit fucked from Thursday, so did slightly unscientific max hang session and then tried to avoid getting sucked into climbing anyway.
S

Back to Wales this week for 2-3 days. Would quite like to try King of Drunks and some other stuff in the Pass. Need to find a couple of 6Cs and maybe a 7A for daughter who I think deserves them more than me based on recent form.

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 728
  • Karma: +40/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#16 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 01:32:45 pm
Goals: fuck knows now! Probably onsight a load of low F7's on October Kalymnos trip (if it happens), maybe some quick redpoints  :shrug:... Some classic E4's (not that I can realistically see that I'll have time for a trad trip to where I wanna go before the deluge starts...). Some Peak lime stuff and a good haul of high F6's and low F7's in Portland in September.

M: Stayed out in the van with the intention of going back to High Tor for round two - Fucking wet as an otters pocket! Drove around looking for dry rock... Ended up flipping a coin at a Stoney layby in the rain: Tor/Wall... Wall won! Uber onsighting session up to F6c+.
T: Tired
W: Still tired
T: AW with daughter - She crushed! Did some bouldering for the first time in bloody ages - Flashed around 10 problems in the V3-V5 range... Fun!
F: AW with GF and daughter - Got on F7c+, forgot all the moves - worked them all out but can't imagine linking it right now... Top crux is nails from a decent hang and I'd need to have zero pump and cool temps to do it so doubt I'll get anywhere near doing it before it's reset... Ahh well good fun working on it if it's ultimately futile!
S: Walk found Burbage with daughter...
S: Routes @ AW - Poor session... GF hurt her knee. daughter wasn't feeling it... Did some auto belays up to F6c+ then called it...

Gutted bout the curtailment of the High Tor trip... I was pretty psyched for The Tor but me mate's not that into projecting so a good long wall session was a fair enough compromise...  Did a fair bit and was nice to boulder and not feel completely feeble! All about Kalymnos now....

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#17 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 02:36:32 pm
school back - back on the wagon

M - 8km twice uphill to Stoney golf course - long sustained up.

T - not a lot

W - not much (missed wagon)

T - kettlebells - curls and lifts

F - kettlebells - rows and presses

S - realisation that it's not long til ultra - ran 19.5k in 2 hrs, felt OK could have pushed on.

S - in the Dee with the kids, mostly swimming on the spot, but swam through the fast flowing section once or twice just to see if the head is still ok with it. Felt good.

Hole in thumb from bike kickstand nearly healed, be back on climbing soon.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#18 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 03:22:13 pm
What was the poo state at attermire? I had one fairly pooless session, then walked past one day and it was fairly well fertalized...

On a scale of 1 to sewage treatment facility it's somewhere around a 3? I didn't have a tarp on Monday and it was fine, but I wouldn't eat off it and it was a lot wetter on the Wednesday which didn't help.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#19 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 04:14:06 pm
I'm hoping livestock, not human?

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +332/-2
#20 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 06:05:47 pm
DD: there are a fine selection of classic E3s at High Tor which rise above usual Peak lime trad. fare and are logistically not too complex. Doing all these would be a good target, after which Flakey Wall will feel steady (the left wing E4s not so much). The far right wing sport routes are not bad if you need to offer a carrot to non-trad. climbing partners.

shark: as you say, you’re very practiced at refining and refining routes and less practiced at sealing the deal. Have you considered a few days of doing things that you can get up in 1-3 goes, climbing them messily? Might be fun, might be a bit of a hit to the ego.

M - Bouldering at Stronghold with The Editor. Managed a few purple V3/4s. Two months since I’ve done any bouldering and I really notice the lack of oomphf. A low stress, low expectation, social event which was just what was needed and I really enjoyed myself.
T - Train to Edinburgh. Sister's castle now has a gym so could do extensive shoulder conditioning: IsYsTs on the TRX, supported handstands, planks, lock-offs.
W - Walked 13km including up Arthur’s Seat.
T - Cave Crag, Dunkeld with Wil. Drizzling and misty, so we left the trad. gear in the car and wandered up not expecting to do much. Surprisingly, parts of the crag were completely dry including all the sport routes. Warmed-up putting the clips in on Baked Out (7a+). Didn’t really establish a good way of doing the crux, despite it being very like a Stronghold volumes V3/4, but had a couple of unsuccessful RP goes. Still felt very nervous working routes and relied on the clip-stick. In contrast, there was a team of three young people whipping all over Hamish and Ted’s. I need to do some falling training. Good to be outside and see Wil.
F - Shoulder conditioning as above. Walked 10km.
S - Shoulder conditioning as above. Walked 10km.
S - Shoulder conditioning including single arm supported handstands (a new progression). Train back from Edinburgh.

Good to be in Edinburgh for a few days, the weather didn’t allow a trip to the big hills but I got to Cave Crag, new venue number 10 for 2021. Still feeling delicate mentally when climbing. The answer is obvious, I should dial back my expectations and just enjoy myself, but old habits are hard to shift! The lad’s at big school today for a warm-up week, if this goes smoothly I might try to get up to N Wales for a day or two during the dry spell forecast.

A bit conflicted as to what I should be training as I have both trad. and sport goals. I’ll try to have one day of trying hard moves and one day of hanging-on per week.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#21 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 06:08:54 pm
I'm hoping livestock, not human?

Crikey I hope so too.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#22 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 23, 2021, 06:23:06 pm
Somebody remind me what success feels like

As Duncan said, drop your grade, a lot to start off with and build up. It's just not realistic to project very hard things constantly.

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2931
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#23 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 24, 2021, 08:07:29 am
M - Attermire to try The Matador.

I've had one previous attempt to look at this.  Followed the instructions in the unknownstones guide (well, I thought I did),  wandered around in the drizzle for more than an hour, and gave up.  Any tips on how to find it (or what3words / grid refs etc)?  I need a project for my post-wristknack autumn and Bullrider seems a decent candidate.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#24 Re: Power Club 597 16-22 Aug
August 24, 2021, 08:36:16 am
M - Attermire to try The Matador.

I've had one previous attempt to look at this.  Followed the instructions in the unknownstones guide (well, I thought I did),  wandered around in the drizzle for more than an hour, and gave up.  Any tips on how to find it (or what3words / grid refs etc)?  I need a project for my post-wristknack autumn and Bullrider seems a decent candidate.

I wrote the description and drew a line showing the route on the OS map. The line takes you to the exact location of the cave. Not sure what more can be done  :shrug:
The boulder problems are at the base of the sport venue Alcove Buttress which is in the Rockfax. You might get on better with their description?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal