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Hope's nose bouldering Torquay (Read 1614 times)

ctodd

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Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 21, 2021, 07:17:21 pm
After some knowledge on the bouldering at Hope's nose main crag (not the beach).

Maybe even a topo!

Cheers

Chris

Ged

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#1 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 21, 2021, 07:28:03 pm
There's no topo, and it does take a bit of a while to figure out what goes where. It is also very very good! I'd put it down as the best crag for font 7s in the wider area.

A good start is Vikhr. Sit start on the far right ceack, and traverse the lip to end up in the obvious undercut of esperanza. Renaissance goes straight up from. These undercuts. The big left ward trending groove is... Apples, which can also be done as a sit start following the groove all the way (windfall). Left again, the lines of peaches and thin blue line are tricky to figure out. The 48% starts at obvious big jug, hard moves up, right a bit and up to flake. Further left, the cider press is on the obvious really smooth section with a vague groove, and some really shit presses.

Generally, the finishes feel high (traverse off at the break or leave a rope to batman down, or jump) but the climbing tends to ease a lot with height.

Alex is has a YouTube channel with vids of some stuff, https://youtube.com/user/TheMissbolt

Generally, the climbing is superb. Cool temps help a lot as there is a lot of quite narly crimping. But it's in the shade until 1 ish.

I'll try and dig out some pics. I'd be interested to know how you get on!

Ged

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#2 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 21, 2021, 07:34:13 pm

shark

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#3 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 22, 2021, 12:27:50 pm
How did I not know about this place? Looks great. Is all the bouldering tidal?

The UKC database has detailed descriptions of the problems but as I don’t know what a Stonechat is I guess that means I’m not welcome there: Stonechat Test




Wood FT

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#4 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 22, 2021, 12:59:05 pm
It’s a little sharp in places but a wonderful little spot with an amazing view. I was having a crap day so consequently found it all quite tough.

Shark - the crag is far above the sea but the darker stuff is across a tidal beach. Re: Stonechat - google it :-)

shark

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#5 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 22, 2021, 01:12:58 pm
Re: Stonechat - google it :-)

Fuck that. I’m only interested in climbing

Ged

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#6 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 22, 2021, 03:16:04 pm
It's definitely sharp and a bit old school. If you're having a bad day you'll hate it,and it's better with a few pads and spotters. But it really is good climbing in a beautiful place. When you're skin is trashed, go to the beach boulder

ctodd

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#7 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 23, 2021, 07:38:45 am
Great stuff, thanks Ged

Just moved down to Devon, if you need a partner for this / anything else give me a shout.

Ged

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#8 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 23, 2021, 09:09:18 am
Oh great, where have you moved to?

ctodd

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#9 Re: Hope's nose bouldering Torquay
August 23, 2021, 10:18:49 pm
 Renting in Torquay at the moment.

 

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