[JamieG]

Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.

Yeah the reply of that was pretty grim to watch. 

[spidermonkey09]

Watching the bouldering on replay... the Discovery commentators are the worst because they think they know what they're on about but are actually clueless 

Chatting relentless bollocks from start to finish

Way better just having it on ambient sound only!

Huge improvement!

[fatneck]

Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.

How awful!

Sounds like Ondra is through to finals

[galpinos]

Looks like Bassa Mawem just tore his left bicep on the lead. Proper rough, that is.

Proper gutting for him. I really like the Mawem brothers and it's been great to see them really bring their 'A game'.

[cheque]

The commentators and whoever’s in charge of replays absolutely love this relatively easy dyno to the yellow jug rail.

[JamieG]

Not for the squeamish! https://twitter.com/AtPeterHayes/status/1422542906242514949

[abarro81]

 
If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?

[James Malloch]

If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?

Megos goes through if he doesn’t

[sdm]

For those hating the commentary, I muted the TV commentary and listened to the climbing daily YouTube live commentary with Matt Groom and Teresa Corti which wasn't bad.

[galpinos]

If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?

Megos goes through if he doesn’t

Are you sure?

[James Malloch]

If he withdraws is it a final with 7 or does 9th go through (looks likely to be Megos)?

Megos goes through if he doesn’t

Are you sure?

I was pretty sure that’s what the commentators on discovery+ were saying. They talked about him needing to wait for the outcome of the injury to know if he would make finals.

Whether that’s correct is a different question though…

Edit - looking at the UKC updates, it sounds like they aren’t sure whether he would or not. The commentary suggested it would be the case though

[Will Hunt]

The commentary is really galling, I think. I had a look at the BBC coverage at one point to see what it was like and they were doing a decent job of explaining things in an engaging way without resorting to the cringeworthy "Partridge sports commentator" voice that the Eurosport bloke does.
I really can't imagine it being expensive to get somebody into the booth who might know even the first thing about the sport and be able to string two words together.

If you've spaffed over a billion dollars on the rights, and thus denied everybody the chance to watch unimpeded on the BBC, maybe actually make a bit of a go of it?

And on that note, it makes all those discussions in climbing about the impact of the Olympics seem a bit moot. Depending on what the BBC gets/decides to show I doubt that 99% of people will even be aware that climbing was on.

I was pretty sure that’s what the commentators on discovery+ were saying.

Would love to see Megos compete but I'll wait to hear it from somebody that knows the sport, not Johnny Concrete and a rugby player.

[Wellsy]

The BBC feed didn't even show the qualifying results, never mind anything like the individual event results and/or updates

If you just checked the BBC you wouldn't even know it was happening.

[James Malloch]

I was pretty sure that’s what the commentators on discovery+ were saying.

Would love to see Megos compete but I'll wait to hear it from somebody that knows the sport, not Johnny Concrete and a rugby player.

UKC also said that he would at first, but then their next update said they weren’t sure.

[Will Hunt]

The BBC feed didn't even show the qualifying results, never mind anything like the individual event results and/or updates

If you just checked the BBC you wouldn't even know it was happening.

Things might improve for the finals. I think for most sports the coverage has been fairly limited to the finals. Plus lots going on in the velodrome today where GB normally does well. Also, no GB blokes competing but they might like to show more of Shauna?

[Wellsy]

Be awesome if Shauna got through to the finals. I know she has struggled with injuries and placed poorly recently, but I would love it if she did.

[Yossarian]

Is anyone else trying to watch this just on the BBC? They had the speed in the red button thing earlier, and I think you can now see the lead, but the bouldering is nowhere to be found. Is that right?

[Wil]

It's still not clear what will happen with Bassa. Fingers crossed he is ok to compete, but it looked unlikely to me (but what do I know?)

The scenarios if he doesn't are all a little unsatisfying:

A) Run it with 7. This would presumably give Ondra a Bye...
B) Alex Megos goes through. Not really fair since Bassa's position would have affected other scores and hence final positions. (Might not have made any difference in this case, but if he was good at lead it makes a big difference).
C) They discount all of Bassa's positions. Jongwon Chon would qualify, swapping positions with Megos.

I don't know what the answer is and can't see it in the IFSC rules. Given that he did successfully start the lead it seems likely his scores will count, so that option is out. If running with 7 someone gets a bye, it makes more sense if it's Tomoa (new top seed) than Ondra, who he would have faced.

[Wellsy]

If he withdraws because he says he can't compete in the finals, then surely his slot goes to the next highest ranked in the qualifiers though? That's got nothing to do with where he placed in the quals; he can't compete in the finals, pulls out, there's a slot, and the number 9 in the qualifiers is brought in.

[galpinos]

If he withdraws because he says he can't compete in the finals, then surely his slot goes to the next highest ranked in the qualifiers though? That's got nothing to do with where he placed in the quals; he can't compete in the finals, pulls out, there's a slot, and the number 9 in the qualifiers is brought in.

Depends on how the rules are written. This is a new format and the "interconnected" nature of the results make it a tricky decision to me, not as clear cut as you make out.

Also, in normal IFSC World Cups, they've run finals with 7 when someone has dropped out through injury though that might be the case here.

[GraemeA]

They've covered up all the bolts with little mini-volumes. A new thing so we don't end up with another Ondra disqualification when his foot brushes a bolt?

Ondra wasn't disqualified, his attempt was terminated. And he did use the bolt, he pushed off it, we could see his muscles tensing.

They have been using blockers this season. All of the manufcaturere's started developing them after we used one in the Hachioji Combined final.

[GraemeA]

If Bassa withraws then we have 7 in the final.

[spidermonkey09]

If Bassa withraws then we have 7 in the final.

Interesting. an amazing result for Ondra if he gets a bye as a result. Surely improves his chances a fair whack as he would presumably have lost against a Bassa with both bicep tendons in the speed?

[Wellsy]

In the speed you go next to someone but you don't really compete against them so to speak. You get ranked on your time.

(Is my understanding anyway)

((Apparently my understanding is wrong and its a race off? Erm sure okay lol))

[User deactivated]

Will he have to prove he is fit to compete Graeme?