S - Witches Point
Got stuck on a 6C that I felt like I could 100% do if my foot didn't keep coming off, which seems to be life there.
Will keep up the campusing though
Quote from: Wellsy on August 02, 2021, 10:59:49 amGot stuck on a 6C that I felt like I could 100% do if my foot didn't keep coming off, which seems to be life there. There’s one of those weaknesses that you’re hoping to spot.Quote from: Wellsy on August 02, 2021, 10:59:49 amWill keep up the campusing though
no run, just runs!
Belayed Penny on War Hero which I then flashed, but fucking hell it was hard. There were two moves which I just got through by the skin of my teeth. Surely this is 7a+, surely!
Wellsy,I agree with Bradders. You recently did 7A+ in a session right? and have only been climbing for a couple of years? That's way ahead of the norm, so whatever you've been doing is working well. If it ain't broke don't fix it! 7A+ in a session means you could probably climb a couple of grades higher over multiple sessions too!I note you also mentioned 'I am not great with heights', so doing more high stuff will probably be beneficial - even on not so high stuff where the moves are a bit insecure or it has a dodgy landing so you'd currently climb a bit stiff. Heart of Darkness on the Hueco boulder could be a good shout - not too far from Anston, high (to the top!), bottom end 7A+ for the stand, and quite powerful on big holds (this is what campussing is for right?). White rabbit just to the left is also a high and excellent 6C from a stand or 7B from a sit (guide says 7A+ but its not).
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on August 02, 2021, 01:36:21 pmWellsy,I agree with Bradders. You recently did 7A+ in a session right? and have only been climbing for a couple of years? That's way ahead of the norm, so whatever you've been doing is working well. If it ain't broke don't fix it! 7A+ in a session means you could probably climb a couple of grades higher over multiple sessions too!I note you also mentioned 'I am not great with heights', so doing more high stuff will probably be beneficial - even on not so high stuff where the moves are a bit insecure or it has a dodgy landing so you'd currently climb a bit stiff. Heart of Darkness on the Hueco boulder could be a good shout - not too far from Anston, high (to the top!), bottom end 7A+ for the stand, and quite powerful on big holds (this is what campussing is for right?). White rabbit just to the left is also a high and excellent 6C from a stand or 7B from a sit (guide says 7A+ but its not).That sounds like a good little crag, I'll check it out!I'll probably do the campusing for a bit. See how it goes. But good advice, I'll think on it guys. The way I saw it was that generally just trying to be strong as possible has done me well so far, and all that. Campusing gets one strong. I like being strong, cos it's a novelty for me personally. But worth thinking about.
Thanks for the video, useful. I would hazard that posterior chain core strength, and loads... loads... and loads of time on rock when you can will be your quickest route to high grades. Can't go wrong with steep board.Now, on the campussing. People more well versed on it than me might be better placed to give advice, but if you want to do some - keep it to once a week MAX for now. I reckon you're on to a solid start for someone with your amount of mileage, and with your psyche you'll have no shortage of drive to train.