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Fire on Water Central Buttress (Read 3590 times)

Hydraulic Man

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Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 23, 2021, 08:13:46 am
I replaced the bolts in this a while ago and have tried it intermittently since and injured myself on it into the bargain...

Has anyone climbed this of late as I would be interested to hear how.....I have seen it shutdown one 8C climber and another mate far stronger than me made no headway...Someone has logged it recently and there is a new bolt on the final runout....

My thoughts are its far harder than 7c...

kc

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#1 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 23, 2021, 09:11:44 am
Simon, me and Simon are going to have a look tomorrow. I've got to finish the belay on DL first. I'm sure Simon will report back. Are you still offshore? Don't worry I have no intention of bolting any easy trad routes even though Simon quite likes the idea.

Hydraulic Man

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#2 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 23, 2021, 10:10:09 am
 ;D Aye be around next week.

It needs straightening out from My Fickle Resolve if you ask me. Quite a hard move to get to the crux section and then a horrible LH undercut....And not exactly easy above either...

It feels harder than Boo...(Which is not 7c+)  :worms:

mrjonathanr

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#3 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 23, 2021, 04:21:55 pm
I tried this when it was given 7b+. Seemed a bit stiff for the grade! DNF

Felix14

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#4 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 23, 2021, 10:01:22 pm
Did this last year using the undercut out left which felt quite close to the neighbouring route. Its a brilliant sequence though using pinches with your hand upside down. Felt about 7c to me but took a while to figure out the sequence. Going direct past the bolt seems very hard.

kc

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#5 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 24, 2021, 05:20:48 pm
Ran a couple of laps on this TR a few hours ago.
Standing on ledge with the big undercut. Cross over rh good slot lh high undercut, work feet up and grab tip shredding gaston as an intermediate, bridge out and go again rh to undercut pinch, lh to good shared pinch of the adjacent route, feet up and rh to a high side pull (now smaller and sharper). Done
Initially I tried to go for the good pinch of the sharp gaston but I would have soon draw blood.
Grade "Lorry Park 7c+" "Tor" 7b+ = 7c
As the drilling machine was handy I moved the bolt for the crux at full reach from the undercut jug and drilled a hole above and half a hole above the peg below. It could do with perhaps an extra one below diverting of the other route. I was out of both bolts, battery and time to finish it off.   

Hydraulic Man

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#6 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 24, 2021, 06:37:06 pm
Was really hoping that gaston was not part of the process...Dirty...

Felix14

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#7 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 24, 2021, 06:41:31 pm
I didn't use the gaston and went straight for the back hand pinch with my right. That gaston is grim.

kc

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#8 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 24, 2021, 07:41:21 pm
I was only using it in the end as a thumb sprag intermediate to get my right foot bridged out to get in balance. Not so grim.

Duma

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#9 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 24, 2021, 07:47:21 pm
 "Lorry Park 7c+"  hah!

remus

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#10 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 08:32:10 am
"Lorry Park 7c+"  hah!

Funnily enough the 7c+s I've tried at lorry park are desperate (Sons of Anarchy springs to mind, couldn't do any of the crux moves). Some of the 7cs are quite generous though.

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#11 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 02:30:24 pm
"Lorry Park 7c+"  hah!

Funnily enough the 7c+s I've tried at lorry park are desperate (Sons of Anarchy springs to mind, couldn't do any of the crux moves). Some of the 7cs are quite generous though.
[/quote
"Lorry Park 7c+"  hah!

Funnily enough the 7c+s I've tried at lorry park are desperate (Sons of Anarchy springs to mind, couldn't do any of the crux moves). Some of the 7cs are quite generous though.

Isn't it more that the grades at lorry park are a bit all over the place? And quite a few of the holds are pretty conditions dependent as well.  Big Spider Small Bath and probaly Squealer as well are soft at 7c but a fairly strong mate made Sleight of Hand look bloody hard.  Similarly Hells Angel is super soft at 7b but I watched a very strong climber take multiple falls on the 7b directly to its right (Sample the Mantel)

Davo

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#12 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 02:55:32 pm
Have done Big Spider and Squeaker  relatively recently and thought these were fine at 7c. Also have done Ground Zero which feels about right at 7c+. Sleight of Hand is hard and Sons of Anarchy is essentially a 2move boulder which makes it hard to grade but would seem more like 8a.

kc

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#13 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 04:43:39 pm
Fire on Water only gets started half way up the crag off a good ledge. You go straight into the crux fresh with a steady but technical section above.
The crag grade comparison is only based on my own personal experience, strengths/weaknesses.
But Historically grades at crags like Raven tor come under more scrutiny so rightly or wrongly see few soft touches.

Davo

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#14 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 05:09:56 pm
On the same topic I thought (I think itís your route?) Bigger Thud at moat was harsh for 7c. Mind you I didnít use any knee bars or pads to get a rest. (No ethical considerations I just did not have a knee pad!)

kc

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#15 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 05:26:29 pm
I definitely didn't use any knee pad nonsense either.
 Grading first ascents is always tricky especially as that was significantly below my pay grade at the time. There is a route of mine over the water that people think is harsh for 7a even though I originally gave it 6c+. Directly opposite on the other side of the river is an 8a+ of mine which will probably go down to 8a in the next round of guide books no doubt.

Davo

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#16 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 07:19:13 pm
Fair points. Have done the 8a+ and I reckon that is probably fair or very hard 8a.

All good routes though !

kc

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#17 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 25, 2021, 07:54:43 pm
Thanks.

Wood FT

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#18 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 26, 2021, 06:08:19 am
Thanks.
Brilliant route too, KC. Thanks for putting it up.

Hydraulic Man

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#19 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
June 26, 2021, 10:06:49 am
Fire on Water only gets started half way up the crag off a good ledge. You go straight into the crux fresh with a steady but technical section above.
The crag grade comparison is only based on my own personal experience, strengths/weaknesses.
But Historically grades at crags like Raven tor come under more scrutiny so rightly or wrongly see few soft touches.

It might start half way up the crag but that move is nails....I am thinking having long legs might be an issue there as there is a good left foot hold I cannot get my foot onto.....

kc

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#20 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
July 08, 2021, 04:09:53 pm
Eventually finished this off today with the new bolt delivery and a glued back post crux hold that is good for clipping a new higher/inline bolt. The old bolt is quite handy for doggin the crux so it remains. Nice straight line up the crag 2* 7c worth seeking out along with the revamped Dangerous liaisons 7c at the far end.

Hydraulic Man

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#21 Re: Fire on Water Central Buttress
July 08, 2021, 05:58:32 pm
Good work....Worth having a look at Belladonna as well as this is also in the new bolts not repeated category from 2017...

 

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