Poor training/climbing week.
Corrected the numbering (hopefully)...
Also curious if anyone has any ideas on how to train for the particular kind of pump you get from long, slow, vertical trad. pitches. You’d think after >40 years I’d have this nailed but I can’t see anything that’s a step up from traversing on natural stone walls that were the state of the art in 1978 (and unavailable in London).
M - Pembroke. Back into the Leap for some shade. Did Quiet Waters, which I thought was full on at E3. The top crux was in the sun and only a strong will to avoid testing the ancient peg got me through it. A long rest and deliberated whether to try Head Hunter or Minotaur. Went for Head Hunter as didn't fancy the reachy top move on Minotaur. The lower wall was hard from the get go and really pumpy to place the gear. Several committing and scary sequences later i was getting my breath back on the slopey halfway ledge. Frankly it felt like E5 to there. A long and easy runout left ensued to the base of the finishing groove. Spent ages fiddling some rubbish and small kit in before going for it. The groove was not piss and I up and downed a bit before committing; just about made it to the jugs but it was a touch and go. Glad I didn't test the kit as if it has pulled I'd have gone the length of the crag A 3* experience but will not be leading it again!
Nice Rob, very jealous of Ultimate Warrior
M - Pembroke. Back into the Leap for some shade. Did Quiet Waters, which I thought was full on at E3.
Went for Head Hunter as didn't fancy the reachy top move on Minotaur. The lower wall was hard from the get go and really pumpy to place the gear. Several committing and scary sequences later i was getting my breath back on the slopey halfway ledge. Frankly it felt like E5 to there. A long and easy runout left ensued to the base of the finishing groove. Spent ages fiddling some rubbish and small kit in before going for it. The groove was not piss and I up and downed a bit before committing; just about made it to the jugs but it was a touch and go. Glad I didn't test the kit as if it has pulled I'd have gone the length of the crag A 3* experience but will not be leading it again!
Ha, even more stout at E2 when I did it!
I find it really interesting reading this sort of stuff from someone that's climbed F8c. I might have done a handful of F7b's when I did Head Hunter. If you thought that was committing and scary, don't get on Fitzcorraldo! Can't really comment on the Minotaur long reach (I'm tall) but I found the start way more committing than I was expecting - full-on E3 5c followed by the hard move.
Annoyingly reachy off the ledge too, isn’t it? I can’t really remember the final groove but I do remember wanting it to be over by the time I reached the niche. My main memory is just how wonderful the rock is. Mixed emotions from the leap!