[joshpw]

So usually I'd be heading abroad but looks like this summer I'll be climbing in the UK,
Obviously it's all better in the cold but...
Where is going to have the best conditions over the summer for a lovely bit of gritstone bouldering, so far howshaw crag has been suggested, anymore?

[tommytwotone]

TBH as long as your not looking to tick slopey stuff at the top of your grade, summer grit has never really bothered me, just rein in your grade a bit and enjoy it. The only thing that puts me off is the potential for getting midged to death.

Not sure what your radius is going to be but if you can get up to Yorkshire then some of the stuff up on Barden might suit. Brimham is worth a look too, as it has stuff facing all aspects.

The stuff on the border with Lancashire like Blackstone Edge would probably suit as well.

[tomtom]

Go high to catch some breeze and for it to be a bit cooler.Crags/Outcrops that face multiple directions are useful so there is some shade (for both you and for shaded problems).

[joshpw]

Yeah definitely north facing and windy is what I'm after grade range up to V10 any specific crags/ caves/ roofs you'd recommend?

[tommytwotone]

TBH if you're looking for grades up that end, unless you're Toru Nakajima you could be in for a hard time. I'd be looking at some of the lime in the Peak (usual suspects, Raven Tor, Rubicon etc), but I wouldn't exactly make a special international trip for them!

[tomtom]

Where are you based Josh?

[Duma]

Queens? not quite grit but...

[User deactivated.]

There's tons of stuff up to V10 / 7C+ on grit that will be fine in the summer.

Everyone's first 7C, the keel, for example. I don't think conditions even make much of a difference on that.

As TTT says, generally avoid slopers at your limit, although a portable fan can help here (and it also keeps midges away).

[joshpw]

Yeah ticked the keel it's great, gets the sun though, I'm based down in London but trying to get up on weekends in the van as much as possible this year.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/howshaw_tor-4073/panopticon-268482
This is one I was looking at, apparently north facing and high up on the Moors, more like this?

[Bonjoy]

Yes, Howshaw is an excellent choice mid summer. It's high and exposed so gets any wind going and is shady all day. It can still be a nightmare for midges though if you get a really still day. Panopticon isn't very reliant on friction either, think I did the FA in August.
Lowrider at Stanage is good for summer conditions, especially if you head up early so you catch the shade. It's more friction dependant but can be fine even in mid summer.
There's some good stuff on the crag at Wimberry, which is high and N facing.
Shady lowland crags can be a better bet in midgy weather - Bradley, Black Garden, Filthy Q, Rowtor, Stanton in the Woods.
It's totally possible to have a great time on grit right through summer. It just requires walking up hills, careful skin management and realistic adjustment of grade expectations.

[SA Chris]

Earl is always windy and fucking freezing.

[Bradders]

I personally really struggle climbing on grit through summer, not sure why but maybe it's due to the knowledge of just how much easier it all feels when things cool down. Not to mention the fact there are so many other things you could be doing which are better in the warm! Sport climbing, lime bouldering, Lakes or Welsh mountain bouldering, swimming, etc. etc. It is good to keep having sessions though to keep your movement dialled in.

Yeah definitely north facing and windy is what I'm after grade range up to V10 any specific crags/ caves/ roofs you'd recommend?

Maybe grab some guidebooks and have a flick through?

Sadly with grit, stuff in that grade range and style is pretty hard to come by. There's a thread here which might be useful though:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31169.0.html

Things like Jason's Roof and Sideliner at Crookrise have certainly been done in summer. Rylstone, Rolling Gate and other high Yorkshire Moors venues can work as well. As others have said you need a good breeze, some cloud cover and a bit of determination though, otherwise it'll all feel a bit sweaty and hard. Much easier to go and hide in a roadside limestone cave.

[joshpw]

I've got a few guidebooks but there's no substitute for a first hand recommendation, did go up and look as Jason's, looks class but wasn't sure if it was north facing, and that walk up would be savage on a hot day.
Maybe I'll have to get on the limestone then, it's just much less appealing, my fat fingers hate a pocket. I'll just take my fan up and see what I can find, maybe some tree cover or just chase shade around a crag, surprised that there isn't anything that's classic in the summer though, maybe churnet is an option?

[cheque]

It's totally possible to have a great time on grit right through summer. It just requires walking up hills, careful skin management and realistic adjustment of grade expectations.

 

Avoiding midges is just a matter of reading the weather forecast properly and being able to apply it to the geography of the crags. It doesn’t take much wind to eliminate them but it also doesn’t take much rock or hillside to create a sheltered haven for them to congregate in.

The biggest mistake you can make is to believe that particular venues are always midge-riddled or completely immune to them. Chris says Earl is always windy but I bet there are climbers out there who refuse to return based on the trauma of only having visited when it was blowing from the south-east.

[SA Chris]

my fat fingers hate a pocket.

You'll be fine on Peak Limestone then.

[joshpw]

Oh yeah? Not too many pockets?
Got any V10 summer suggestions on lime?

[T_B]

Churnet can be good if it’s shady but stuff like Mirfs roof is very open and sunny, so you’d want a cloudy day.

I did Tetris at Roaches on a windy day in July with a slightly different sequence. August can be really good conditions on grit if it’s windy, but July has been humid and grim on both grit/lime in recent years. Best on the wood unless you want to do routes.

[T_B]

Oh yeah? Not too many pockets?
Got any V10 summer suggestions on lime?

Not lime but Huffys Roof, River of Life and as others have said, Lowrider all possible in the summer with enough liquid chalk.

[User deactivated.]

I've not been to see it in the flesh yet, but I have this on my list as one of the best looking 7C+'s i've seen on lime: 



https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lobwell_wood-27562/source_of_secrets-568102

Could anyone with location beta pm me?

[joshpw]

I did Tetris at Roaches on a windy day in July with a slightly different sequence. August can be really good conditions on grit if it’s windy, but July has been humid and grim on both grit/lime in recent years. Best on the wood unless you want to do routes.

Yes Tetris is fantastic, I thought maybe a bit soft? Was keen to try the sit to "trust" but it doesn't strike me as a summer area,
Mirfs is more or less south facing I think, defo not for summer

[joshpw]

I've not been to see it in the flesh yet, but I have this on my list as one of the best looking 7C+'s i've seen on lime: 



https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lobwell_wood-27562/source_of_secrets-568102

Could anyone with location beta pm me?

Definitely keen on this!
How do I find it?

[Footwork]

I've not been to see it in the flesh yet, but I have this on my list as one of the best looking 7C+'s i've seen on lime: 



https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lobwell_wood-27562/source_of_secrets-568102

Could anyone with location beta pm me?

Just note James' comment about access. Don't climb there with lamps.

[User deactivated.]

How do I find it?

A question I am also seeking the answer to, but I believe in the Rotherham, South Yorkshire area.

Another nearby and good looking problem in Doncaster is the following, which appears more grit like in style than lime:



https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/earth_quarry-18971/midnight_caller-369034

[monkey boy]

Howshaw is a great crag and with any wind (except southerly) will be fine throughout summer. Like others have said by dropping your grade a little and seeking out some wind you can climb at quite a lot of venues, ones listed by Bonjoy above have some brilliant stuff.

Source of Secrets is mag lime based. Access, like much of mag lime, is unknown so be aware of that when visiting and keep a low profile - no music, lights or large groups.

[tommytwotone]

Can I just say how impressed I am that following a request for summer grit picks, the consensus is that the OP should get himself to a random grotty quarry out near Doncaster to climb a limestone arete!