I found in the past my max hang scores drop if I do density hangs, but my fingers felt less tweaky Rob, max hangs always tend to go back up quickly in my experience though once I start again I've found.
S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate
Quote from: JohnM on May 17, 2021, 09:20:08 amS - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that running
Quote from: teestub on May 17, 2021, 09:44:11 amQuote from: JohnM on May 17, 2021, 09:20:08 amS - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that runningLikewise
M - Max hangs, had got up to +31kg at the end of April so aimed for +30kg. This felt like the living end and I was failing after about 5 seconds. Ended up dropping all the way down to +25kg and this was still a struggle. OK I had been at LPT the day before but this was still a bit annoying. I knew I had been feeling a bit off the pace the past couple of weeks which I’d put down to the density hangs wrecking my forearms and this was definitely an eye opener. Feel way down on strength from a few weeks ago which has shown through in fingerboard scores, and I’m not 100% sure why. Trying not to read too much into it and hope things balance out.
Has anyone else ever tried density hangs and ever felt any negative effects? I tried them out a few months back (about 6-8 weeks of once or twice a week) to try and settle down some minor niggles as a bit of an experiment. Those niggles did settle down, although whether the hangs had anything to do with that is anyone's guess. But for some sessions and part of the season I also often felt like my forearms felt almost 'blocked'. Bit of a hard feeling to describe really, almost like getting powered out pretty instantly. Again, this could just all be in my head but since I stopped doing them I've felt like I'm getting back to normal a bit.
TTT, I’m in a similar place with house selling: twitchy buyer and nowhere to move to.
I've been informed that there is a hands off knee bar in the eyes on the Ashes. Any truth to this and any info on how it goes in?
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.
Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.