TB you reckon confidence is the main factor, I'd rather be as strong as Megos and down in the dumps than as weak as Doyle and feeling top of the world.
Quote from: JackPal on May 10, 2021, 10:13:05 pmTB you reckon confidence is the main factor, I'd rather be as strong as Megos and down in the dumps than as weak as Doyle and feeling top of the world.Yeah, I remember spending a season in Santa Linya and seeing people on everything from 7a to 9a+. It felt like fitness, confidence, fluidity on rock and the like determined whether you did your project in 5 days or 15, but raw oomf was the biggest factor in whether your project was 8a or 9a...
Jeez, proper clickbait title that. I'll nibble anyhow.Imo it's just different for everyone, Nick you say four sessions a week outdoors are needed, I'd wager I could improve my current state drastically by doing one outdoor session a week for the next couple of months.
But, can you tell the difference between a British or Spanish 9a climber, or a male or a female 9a climber by the way that they move?
if one were on North Stack Wall, you could have as much oomf as you friggin well like, but it'd still be all about how big your balls are. (Figuratively, of course, I fully appreciate that any gender can be extremely good at terrifying trad routes)
Jeez, proper clickbait title that. I'll nibble anyhow.Imo it's just different for everyone, Nick you say four sessions a week outdoors are needed, I'd wager I could improve my current state drastically by doing one outdoor session a week for the next couple of months. Dan you say rock trumps all, I'd like to see one of the young comp wads improve by just climbing on rock, the load they do would be impossible to do on rock. It's simply different for everyone, no one size fits all. Just my opinion.
You'd swear that an Insect Overlord was posting links to spurious claims to generate conversation.
Quote from: SA Chris on May 11, 2021, 11:07:41 amYou'd swear that an Insect Overlord was posting links to spurious claims to generate conversation.
I just wish I could comment on the 'Want to know who is best in the UK?' article. New title needed.
I’m wondering how someone who has previously red pointed 9b can be said to have improved because they managed a quick red/head point of an 8a+
There is no doubt that training is required to reach your true potential as a rock climber. But we are quicly forgetting that there is more to rock climbing than pulling hard on stick screwed above the doorframe.
He then goes on to illustrate the above with examples of why the training aspect is not as overarchingly important as social media (and purveyors of training programmes) might lead you to believe and also stress that technique, tactics and time on rock are each as important to performance on rock.
One of the ways Steve is shooting at an imaginary target is that he makes the mistake that what people post on social media is what they spend their time doing. If I had a training session that was one hour of stretching, followed by two hours of playing on boulders for movement skills, followed by a FB session in which I one-armed the Lattice Edge holding a small dog in my arms, which one do you think is going to make it onto instagram?
I think it's much more useful to think of training as 'stuff I do to get better at climbing', which can and should include lots of time on terrain similar to the stuff you want to improve on.
However, the audience who are less in the know seeing a massive bias in content featuring feats of strength from top athletes might draw poor conclusions on how to improve. I think it’s good that Steve has stuck his head above the parapet in an attempt to redress the balance and ‘start a conversation’ as politicians say.