Quote from: duncan on May 10, 2021, 12:26:12 pm Box steps for 30 mins. Walked 10km. W - Box-steps for 45 mins. T - Appropriately tired and sore: felt like I’d climbed a big route in the Dolomites the previous day. 10km walk..Are the mountains calling Duncan?
Box steps for 30 mins. Walked 10km. W - Box-steps for 45 mins. T - Appropriately tired and sore: felt like I’d climbed a big route in the Dolomites the previous day. 10km walk..
@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).
Quote from: Andy F on May 10, 2021, 04:56:41 pm@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on May 10, 2021, 08:01:09 pmQuote from: Andy F on May 10, 2021, 04:56:41 pm@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest. Mick is quite tall. Also, rumour has it he gave it 7c+ despite knowing it was as hard as other things around it, just to annoy people
decided to go up Taking the Mick, which is a juggy 7a+ next to Comedy. Unfortunately at the third clip the blocky jug I was hanging all my weight off levered out of the crag. Fortunately I managed to flick it over my head while falling and belayer was standing under the bulge, so no harm done. It was a big breezeblock sized lump so just as well it didn't hit anyone or the rope. I was mildly shaken up but fortunately completely fine so decided to get back on the horse before I cooled down and got spooked. managed to get to the chain but perhaps unsurprisingly overgripped everything and was pretty gripped the whole way up!
I wondered about this, having seen the block on the floor. I was sure it hadn't been there on Monday! Glad you were both okay. A couple of people were on the route whilst I was gearing up for Comedy and they seemed to be having a bit of an epic on it; sounded like they were afraid of pulling more stuff off it.