Look upon my works, ye mighty, and despair!
M - Kilnsey with Tim P. Awful weather. Wandered up Sticky Wicket to warm up...hands froze and opened up a dry split which started bleeding everywhere. Lowered off a bolt or two from the top.
Quote from: Bradders on May 09, 2021, 09:10:34 pmM - Kilnsey with Tim P. Awful weather. Wandered up Sticky Wicket to warm up...hands froze and opened up a dry split which started bleeding everywhere. Lowered off a bolt or two from the top. Working Comedy with Tim P.... not good for one's sense of self-worth! I've seen Tim eat a pork pie for lunch (with black pudding under the crust, no less!) and then idly campus Comedy, clipping as he went, as a warm-down and to work out his frustration with conditions on All Out!
Less inspired by Sticky Wicket. Bit of a crap wandering line. Maybe it was just because I couldn't feel my fingers and was bleeding everywhere though.
Quote from: Bradders on May 09, 2021, 10:00:31 pmLess inspired by Sticky Wicket. Bit of a crap wandering line. Maybe it was just because I couldn't feel my fingers and was bleeding everywhere though.Climbing Sticky Wicket is a thoroughly unpleasant experience, but that's why it's a power-stamina classic - Raindogs for the 7b climber (to me, the definition of a power-stamina route is one that leaves you with arms aflame and vomiting your lungs). Admittedly, it's less pure now, after Seb collapsed part of it and created a big new side-pull, while bolting the horribly misbegotten LBW. Have you tried Wysiwyg? That's more of a boulderer's route - short and crimpy - and there are a variety of extensions if you want to increase the calibre.
rehab work on FB, 3x7/53 front 3 half crimp hangs on 18mm edge.
Box steps for 30 mins. Walked 10km. W - Box-steps for 45 mins. T - Appropriately tired and sore: felt like I’d climbed a big route in the Dolomites the previous day. 10km walk..
Quote from: duncan on May 10, 2021, 12:26:12 pm Box steps for 30 mins. Walked 10km. W - Box-steps for 45 mins. T - Appropriately tired and sore: felt like I’d climbed a big route in the Dolomites the previous day. 10km walk..Are the mountains calling Duncan?
@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).
Quote from: Andy F on May 10, 2021, 04:56:41 pm@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on May 10, 2021, 08:01:09 pmQuote from: Andy F on May 10, 2021, 04:56:41 pm@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold. I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest. Mick is quite tall. Also, rumour has it he gave it 7c+ despite knowing it was as hard as other things around it, just to annoy people
decided to go up Taking the Mick, which is a juggy 7a+ next to Comedy. Unfortunately at the third clip the blocky jug I was hanging all my weight off levered out of the crag. Fortunately I managed to flick it over my head while falling and belayer was standing under the bulge, so no harm done. It was a big breezeblock sized lump so just as well it didn't hit anyone or the rope. I was mildly shaken up but fortunately completely fine so decided to get back on the horse before I cooled down and got spooked. managed to get to the chain but perhaps unsurprisingly overgripped everything and was pretty gripped the whole way up!
I wondered about this, having seen the block on the floor. I was sure it hadn't been there on Monday! Glad you were both okay. A couple of people were on the route whilst I was gearing up for Comedy and they seemed to be having a bit of an epic on it; sounded like they were afraid of pulling more stuff off it.