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Power Club 582 3rd - 9th May 2021 (Read 5691 times)

duncan

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Box steps for 30 mins.
Walked 10km.
W - Box-steps for 45 mins.
T - Appropriately tired and sore: felt like I’d climbed a big route in the Dolomites the previous day. 10km walk..

Are the mountains calling Duncan?

The mountains long rock routes are always calling! I'm attempting to recover some general uphill fitness and capacity for big days, usually a strength but took a hit with my bout of covid. It's hard to make firm plans with the current uncertainties about overseas trips plus I'm attempting to move house. Aim is to be in better shape in August-September so can grab any opportunities if  the dust has settled. Not short of ideas. This kind of fitness also transfers well to mountain and sea cliff trad. which I'm hoping to be doing more of this summer.

Nibile

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Power Club
Mon - PE low 30/5 x6 just barely. PE low  1/40" x3 just barely. Weights in between. Then upper back weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE low 1/20" x3 just barely. Snatch, press, bentover row.
Thu - PE low 1x10 with long rests to taper a bit.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights.
Sun - loaded carries and wheel.

It's getting harder and harder to train: always short on time, but the PE is going well. Who knows what I could achieve with enough time? 9c surely.

Andy F

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@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold.
I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).

spidermonkey09

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@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold.
I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).

I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest.

Andy F

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@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold.
I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).

I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest.

Mick is quite tall. Also, rumour has it he gave it 7c+ despite knowing it was as hard as other things around it, just to annoy people  :lol:

moose

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@SM09 - Vogue always felt nails for 7c+. IIRC there are two ways around the bit after the flake, either some slappy sidepulls going left or using a small undercut out right, then slap up with your left then go again for a better hold.
I never did get this back in my Malham days, it always seemed harder than the 8a's nearby (except Zoolook).

I started with the right hand sequence but think the left hand one is a lot easier. Maybe lank helps (is Lovatt tall?). Has to be as hard as Baboo given the hard bit on that is right after a rest.

Mick is quite tall. Also, rumour has it he gave it 7c+ despite knowing it was as hard as other things around it, just to annoy people  :lol:

I had a look at Vogue when I was going well and never got anywhere...and I am pretty tall. I recall thinking it was more of a short persons route and my lank was a disadvantage - it felt really bunched up getting into the undercut flake.  Is Mick one of the blessed folk with very short legs but very long arms?!  Maybe I missed some holds; or more likely, it's just bloody hard for everyone, no matter their size,  and possibly a historical misgrade.

Bradders

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decided to go up Taking the Mick, which is a juggy 7a+ next to Comedy. Unfortunately at the third clip the blocky jug I was hanging all my weight off levered out of the crag. Fortunately I managed to flick it over my head while falling and belayer was standing under the bulge, so no harm done. It was a big breezeblock sized lump so just as well it didn't hit anyone or the rope. I was mildly shaken up but fortunately completely fine so decided to get back on the horse before I cooled down and got spooked. managed to get to the chain but perhaps unsurprisingly overgripped everything and was pretty gripped the whole way up!

I wondered about this, having seen the block on the floor. I was sure it hadn't been there on Monday! Glad you were both okay.

A couple of people were on the route whilst I was gearing up for Comedy and they seemed to be having a bit of an epic on it; sounded like they were afraid of pulling more stuff off it.

spidermonkey09

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I wondered about this, having seen the block on the floor. I was sure it hadn't been there on Monday! Glad you were both okay.

A couple of people were on the route whilst I was gearing up for Comedy and they seemed to be having a bit of an epic on it; sounded like they were afraid of pulling more stuff off it.

I think what is basically happening is people are getting sucked into the chossy groove for a shake out instead of sticking to the overhanging flake and the bolt line. Problem is once you go left into the groove its quite pumpy and spooky to get back across. Its a decent warm up but you do need the blinkers on a bit in that section. I was considering crowbarring off some of the other blocks at that section but a lot of the rock around there is dire and I think it might take half the crag down!

 

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