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Power Club 581 26 April - 2 May 2021 (Read 4845 times)

yetix

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I said that Power Club would be better if more people contributed to it

M: rest
T: rehab work on FB, 6x7/53 front 3 half crimp hangs on 18mm edge.
Made a last second decision to head to blackwell to try paint it black after hearing it was dry. Got on Paint It Black which I'd tried years ago and punted off the top and was too livid to return. Managed to string it together fairly quickly in the end
W: back to blackwell. Got on Ovine low left, had never managed the first move before but managed to do it 3 times and fell off progressively further into the problem, one to go back to once its dry. Moved onto working 9-5, managed the first 2 moves in a couple of goes but just couldn't make the 3rd move stick, not sure if this was fatigue, weakness or pain tolerance. Will have to head back and find out fresher! Briefly tried A Lack of Colour, will get that done next time as felt a little tweaky and didn't want to push it too hard.
T: rest
F: rest
S: rehab work on FB, 6x7/53 front 3 half crimp hangs on 18mm edge. Went to the pass to try corridors of power. Did blood moon fairly quickly (nice sustained problem that's 7a/+) and then got on corridors, managed to flash the first 3 moves, and do the 4th and 5th move 2nd go, spent about 10 goes building the confidence to take the pocket before being able to do this every go (I hate pockets) and tickled the next holds a couple of times. Managed to miss the pads once and hit my ankle pretty which was sore. Carried on but couldn't build the psych to try the move from the pocket confidently. Think the fall affected my psych, keen to head back now though as seen some slight beta tweaks which I think might help.
S: rest

 

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