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Power Club 580 19-25 April 2021 (Read 8869 times)

RobK

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#25 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 12:09:47 pm
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.

A Lattice edge and this link https://latticetraining.com/my-fingers/ is the most basic form I think.

(Failing a Lattice edge, another 20mm edge. I think I remember someone saying the bottom rungs of a BM1000 aren't a million miles off? Slightly smaller but more positive, or something like that.)

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#26 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 12:18:32 pm
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.
For the most accurate results you would need to buy one of these: https://wideboyz.com/freestanding-wall/
And then attach this: https://latticetraining.com/product/lattice-board-classic/
And then employ the services of a lattice accredited coach to perform the test: https://latticetraining.com/assessments/lattice-board-assessment/
And if it does prove that you're weak you would need to sign up to this: https://latticetraining.com/plans/premium/

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#27 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 12:42:44 pm
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.
For the most accurate results you would need to buy one of these: https://wideboyz.com/freestanding-wall/
And then attach this: https://latticetraining.com/product/lattice-board-classic/
And then employ the services of a lattice accredited coach to perform the test: https://latticetraining.com/assessments/lattice-board-assessment/
And if it does prove that you're weak you would need to sign up to this: https://latticetraining.com/plans/premium/

Don't forget your Lattice pinch block, and I shit you not, lattice weight loading pin to go with it

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#28 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 12:45:11 pm
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.

Coming soon: Will does Lattice test, does quite well and forever condemns himself to having to deny not only being tall but also strong.

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#29 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 01:04:45 pm
I think Will would do quite well... those pex trained fingers...

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#30 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 01:40:23 pm
M - rest

T - Finger boarding - still doing basic no weighted 2 arm hangs since my wrist flexor injury. Trail run 13.32km 442m.

W - Got my first Covid vaccine (Pfizer). Didn't do any sport under the doctor's instructions although I had zero side effects and only had a slightly sore arm for 24 hours.

T - 5km hike.

F - Shoulder recruitment + core + basic finger boarding. Trail run 19.34km 960m - felt pretty rubbish and my knee tendon felt weak after the first couple of hills. I have got my first ultra race in Italy mid-May so I need to get my knee in better shape ASAP or else this is not going to happen.

S - Back on the 8c, Schwarze Schwan. Stupidly we arrived too early and it was roasting hot. Best to arrive after lunch. Progress was made but I still haven't done the full links on both hard sections. This route has drawn me in as it has great moves and is easily broken down into 2 distinct sections. However, despite not being a hard 8c, these sections are still hard! I want to have at least one more session and see how it goes. My partner is less keen as he has made very little progress on the route, which by his own admission is not of the style where he can simply over power the moves. He is a regular at the grade and the Lattice finger strength test puts him at 9a/+ but luckily for me climbing is more than just one arming an edge :lol: We are discussing finding another 8b+/c to try that will have better conditions going into the summer and whether more sessions on this route is just opportunity cost. I will try and have at least one more session on the route hopefully one evening this week.

S - Achleiten. First time I have climbed two days in a row for months. Despite feeling broken I decided that I should try and address my complete lack of endurance and PE. I came up with a challenge of doing all the 7s in a day (7a, 7a+, 7b...etc). I knew I wouldn't be able to do it on the first day but I thought I would do better than I did. I fell off the 7a+ "warm up" and only just got up it first redpoint. Then I moved onto a cool 7c/+ which I also failed to onsight and did it on my second redpoint and that was all there was time for in the day. I will continue this theme as it is nice to tick some routes and is a good challenge to develop some base level endurance. 

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#31 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 02:05:44 pm
Mine are 5 and almost 2 now!

It's a high maintenance age! Mine are 4 and nearly 18 months. I'm very thankful that my eldest enjoys coming out to the crag with me - has either removed the enormous brownie point debt that would come from trying to leave my wife with both of them, or is the only thing which allows me to get out at all, depending on   the untested maximum level of permitted brownie point debt!

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#32 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 02:50:02 pm
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.

Coming soon: Will does Lattice test, does quite well and forever condemns himself to having to deny not only being tall but also strong.

If Will genuinely think he is super weak, then he's a much bigger fool than I thought

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#33 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 05:12:01 pm

Continue to train like a madman because I genuinely enjoy training at least as much as real climbing. I like the predictability of training and that I don't need to drive anywhere to do it. I also don't get affected in the same way by board projects as rock projects.


Nibile?
Well it's a very thin line. I too love to train, the problem begins when it starts being a sort of compulsive traumatophilia...
If one still improves then it's all good.
Obviously transferring to ze rock is another thing.
My present problem is time, and this reduces training variety, which leads to boredom, stalling and the likes.

Wellsy

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#34 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 05:13:57 pm
T - Ruabon for a bit of esoterica hunting. We wanted to try Flyboy 7b+, a stupidly steep (40 degrees ish) piece of old quarried sandstone. Needed a really good clean but what a fun piece of climbing. Campusing to start with and then every hold is an absolute bucket. Had a couple of RPs messing up in different ways and then my mate got it done. The pressure was then on with the light fading and knowing it would be hard to find another belay but I managed to hold it together. Nice to get a route tick under my belt this year. The Clwyd's version of Comedy!
Good hunting, and useful to know, always wondered what that was like, might have to see if I can persuade any daft sod to give it a look.

Wellsy if you want something that worked for me on Breakfast, try dragging the right toe along the rock rather than releasing it in one go.

Ah yeah mate that's kind of what I am trying to do, just not nailed it yet. There's so much pressure going through that right foot and I'm very extended so it feels like I just swing right out.



I can very consistently get to this point though and the top looks alright so just all about getting that one move I guess! I've stepped up the core training and been doing L-sits and tuck plan planche progressions to help.

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#35 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 08:21:50 pm
Mon - Ilkley easy bouldering - Nails "6A" traverse and some other bits before a social walk. Lots of brushing .

Tu- Social walk.

Wed- Ruin bank - 10 problems up to 6C. Tried some uninspiring 7A sits briefly. Burnt Will off on a 6C FA. Magic.

Thu- Hetchell. Easy trad. Highlights Wailing wall and cassius crawl. Had a mare with a random partner. Almost retroflashed the low traverse.

Fri-

Sat- Bowfell Buttress, incredible route for the grade. Stuck behing some people doing it in a million pitches, but they were friendly and it was sunny, so wasn;t too bad. Early start and late back. Did a walk once on top over to Scafell pike and back. Lovely. 1400m of ascent and 22km. Good ambleside pizza. More of this please.

Sun- Very tired. Shortish walk.

Finger isn't fixed, but feeling good on the trad at the moment. Will try pulling on some hard stuff this week, as it only seems to hurt when something digs into it. Bit of a lazy week, but some incoming bad weather means I can justify some board sessions!  :weakbench: Trying to get some big mountain days in to get fit for more mountain goodnes..

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#36 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 08:46:43 pm
Couldn't even pull on to Who Are We etc, all the Baildon Stem block was roasting, and an attempt at Suggy's Wall was a total fail, in the most part due to my being in a foul mood. Should have just gone to Shipley and enjoyed pottering up some 5s and 6s and stopped at the pub on the way home.
Sorry to hear that TTT, Baildon is definitely one for cold weather when it's aspect is invariably warmer than almost all other grit crags (and clean and dries quick). Maybe saved for next winter...

I've climbed more grit 7C's in July and August than the other months combined! I'm sure this is partly due to chance and the temperature likely does make my skin even worse but I can't think of a single outdoor bouldering session where i've not split skin! My climbing weight (by the time i'm clothed, fed and watered) is usually approaching 90kg and I have a tendency to drag holds, so it's no wonder I go through it like butter.

...

Noted on lower grade circuits, I think you're right.
Wait, so you climb grit 7C mid-bloody-summer, are 6'2, and relatively new to climbing?? This is why I didn't trust you in the LID grading debacle  :lol: Still at least you're not some stretched out crimp waif.

Anyway, I'd third what Will said, he's on a rare roll talking sense. Go explore and go to loads of different crags and do some circuits and some easier stuff (which there is a lot of). So many great places to explore and given you annoyingly transcend conditions there's plenty of grit ones to be logistically useful... You could get a real fresh perspective, see some great crags and settings (like West Vale ;)), and just enjoy the beauty of movement.

Ali K - top work  :lol:

Wellsy - sounds like a good plan training-wise. I don't know if I got matched on that top bit before dragging my foot out. I do remember that I did it in a snow shower instead of shorts weather, and scraped my toe along the rock like I was planning to get my shoes re-randed straight after.

Duncan Disorderly

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#37 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 11:21:04 am
Late again... HB Simon (was it really 7 years ago when we met up in Font for your 50th?!?!?!?!?)

Goals: F7b soon, F7c this season, F8a oneday...

M: Mileage @ Horseshit - Did a nice starred F6b route that I'd not done.
T: Mileage @ Horseshit - Did a pretty good starred F6c (+ the way I did it according to Cockfax but I'm not having that as felt spot on at 6c!)
W: Rest - Bit of shoulder stability stuff
T: Rest
F: Mileage @ Masson Lees - Ticked the whole sunny wall up to F6c, great! Was seriously quiet too...
S: Mileage @ Colehill - Too bloody hot! Did some good long 6's but didn't get on the two 7's I had my eye on.
S: Rest

Definitely getting the miles in. Struggling to get on harder stuff as am climbing with the GF who's not confident leading outside (or with me lobbing) so I'm doing a shed load of easies interspersed with a few trickier routes every session. While it's becoming slightly frustrating now it does have its benefits in that both my elbows and dodgy shoulder are feeling absolutely fine. Feeling pretty fit too. Have had "that" discussion with the GF and we've agreed to split our climbing time a bit better over the next few months (much easier now the walls are open), at least til she's confident leading and/or belaying me on things I'm very likely to lob off...

This week - Get on F7b, do more mileage, scratch around for a catch, maybe actually do some training....

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#38 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 11:31:10 am
Have had "that" discussion with the GF and we've agreed to split our climbing time a bit better over the next few months (much easier now the walls are open), at least til she's confident leading and/or belaying me on things I'm very likely to lob off...

Have you thought about getting an Edelrid Ohm? I’ve not used one, but my eldest lad has started belaying me on easy trad and I will likely get one next year.

https://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/ohm/ohm.html

Duncan Disorderly

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#39 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 11:46:33 am
We did discuss this last year but the issue is more a confidence thing than a weight disparity so decided against it, they were £100 too so seemed a bit of a stretch... However my lad has also recently been belaying me on easy sport and trad so it might be worth another look...

Duncan Disorderly

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#40 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 11:53:53 am
they were £100 too so seemed a bit of a stretch...

Just had a quick scan and Amazon have them for £85... Hmmmmm  :-\

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edelrid-Ascenders-Devices-climbing-accessories/dp/B01NCJ0RYY

RobK

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#41 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 11:56:49 am
Just a warning on the Ohm, having used one as the heavier partner, I hated it. The catch is really, really harsh, akin to having all the slack taken out the system before dropping off. However if it's that or nothing...

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#42 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 12:18:11 pm

I can very consistently get to this point though and the top looks alright so just all about getting that one move I guess! I've stepped up the core training and been doing L-sits and tuck plan planche progressions to help.

Forget all that, just release the right foot before you get so stretched, at the position you're in at 20s and before you bump the LF.  Push with the LF to oppose the swing, sort your feet, bit of a faff to swap your hands around then it's done

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#43 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 12:29:00 pm
Just a warning on the Ohm, having used one as the heavier partner, I hated it. The catch is really, really harsh, akin to having all the slack taken out the system before dropping off. However if it's that or nothing...

I get the impression that there’s quite a bit of technique to using it? From the videos the lighter belayer either gets pulled up or jumps a bit to give a dynamic belay. As you would normally if you’re giving a dynamic belay. Might be tricky doing that with a youngster, but an experienced belaying adult should be OK.

Maybe I’m talking rubbish though if it grabs before you jump??

Anyway I wouldn’t be doing stuff where I’d expect to fall off but I guess the only way is to try one for yourself .

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#44 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 12:32:09 pm
There's an easier way Wellsy to take that foot lock out without needing lots of core, assuming u got the reach. 

Backhand the first high layaway as u do but then bump up your left foot all the way up the ramp and cross over with your left hand to get the second layaway as a pinch. With these handholds in opposition you can take your right foot out, wave it around and place it for the next move at leisure, ish..  Hope that helps.!

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#45 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 02:21:13 pm
M - A load of stretching and some press ups and dips in the garden, lovely. Feeling a bit broken after continually doing deep left hand lock offs on Under the Bridge on Sunday, major DOMs all down my left hand side.

T - Ruabon for a bit of esoterica hunting. We wanted to try Flyboy 7b+, a stupidly steep (40 degrees ish) piece of old quarried sandstone. Needed a really good clean but what a fun piece of climbing. Campusing to start with and then every hold is an absolute bucket. Had a couple of RPs messing up in different ways and then my mate got it done. The pressure was then on with the light fading and knowing it would be hard to find another belay but I managed to hold it together. Nice to get a route tick under my belt this year. The Clwyd's version of Comedy!

W - Half a max hangs session at +31kg. All complete, nice to still be hitting the same scores after a brief hiatus from the fingerboard. Then an hour or so on the board, trying projects at first and making progress with one of them. Finished with trialling some foot on laddering on various holds as a form of upper end aerobic training. This seemed to work pretty well and I think will be a good tool in getting back into route shape over the next month or so.

T - Gorge with Ally. The plan was to try Under the Bridge for a bit and then take a look at one of the Grand Canyon extensions. Was getting frustratingly close to the tick though so just ended up bouldering the whole session. I couldn’t settle on a sequence after almost holding the jump move in a couple of different ways. Ended up finding a knee bar under the bulge to control the swing and just about held it together on what I thought was a pretty unsatisfying finish. Nice to get this closed off so I can actually focus on routes when I’m down at the Gorge now. The moves are decent but I thought the line was a bit crap. I also found it harder than Be Ruthless, from my (very) limited experience I reckon this might creep in at 7C with BR maybe high 7B+? Who knows.

F - Rest. Feeling very battered, left hand side DOMs like before and weirdly a sore right hamstring from a really intensive toe move yesterday.

S - LPT. One of my main aims this year is to get some good ticks down here after somehow barely climbing here before. Decided to have a look at Mussel Beach and had a couple of goes up. My first taste of the steep section here and it is so much better than the rest of the crag (i.e. less sharp!). Really enjoyed it and managed to get all the moves bar one on the lower crux which I skipped pretty quickly not feeling warmed up enough and one on the upper crux when I sandbagged myself by clipping the rope across the key hold. I’ll know for next time! Keen to put some more time into this.

S - A much needed rest. Probably some stretching later.

A good week mostly on rock with a couple of nice ticks. My whole body is feeling pretty broken now though so I think an easier week with lots of stretching/mobility/conditioning is in order. The DIP joint of my right middle finger was also giving some worrying twinges yesterday so I want to give that a chance to settle down.

Hi Rob, I too found the normal finish off UTB pretty uninspiring...
I did a different finish a while ago which I think is better than the original. It's a couple of extra crimps to a proper finishing jug, rather than just reaching then slinking along the slopey shelf.

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#46 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 03:14:50 pm
Hi Rob, I too found the normal finish off UTB pretty uninspiring...
I did a different finish a while ago which I think is better than the original. It's a couple of extra crimps to a proper finishing jug, rather than just reaching then slinking along the slopey shelf.

Nice, that looks much more like it! Will have to give that a go at some point.

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#47 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 03:42:22 pm

I can very consistently get to this point though and the top looks alright so just all about getting that one move I guess! I've stepped up the core training and been doing L-sits and tuck plan planche progressions to help.

Forget all that, just release the right foot before you get so stretched, at the position you're in at 20s and before you bump the LF.  Push with the LF to oppose the swing, sort your feet, bit of a faff to swap your hands around then it's done

What Ian said - in the position you're in at 23 sec, bring your right hand DOWN, and kinda palm down in the horizontal ledge you start off, and use that while dragging the heel-toe out.

I spent a LOT of time failing with your beta in your video, and the minute I switched it up and did the above I did it in a session.

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#48 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 27, 2021, 10:00:57 pm
Cheers for the beta all, much appreciated. I'll be giving it another look this weekend so I've now no excuses for not making any progress!

 

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