Last week I managed to sprain the a4 pulley in my left pinky - thankfully not a bad one but it got me thinking that actually a lot of my historical finger injuries have come about when encountering a weird grip type on rock, then boning down on it and hearing something pop.
With this in mind I thought it'd be worth putting together a little list of dodgy grip types to load in a controlled way to hopefully avoid some future popping. Here's my suggestions:
- Back two crimp (the cause of the most recent sprain, the pinky got loaded hard in a full crimp undercut position when I bumped he other hand)
- Split middle/front two (i.e. two monos or a two-finger pocket with a spike in the middle etc - I've injured a collateral ligament in this grip)
- Small monos (lumbricals are put under a lot of stress)
- Front two full crimp
Any other weird suggestions or bright ideas for how to carefully build them up beyond the usually progressive hanging? I'll be experimenting with weight edge lifts to help rehab the pinky as it'll mean I can load it better in the position it got injured.
