Foundry Wave
I've had a vaguely similar experience to Tom. My winters used to be mainly spent on long, weekend sessions at the Depot, usually playing on whatever reds and purples appealed. This last winter, with Covid19 and WFH, I fingerboarded and had brief midweek sessions on my woodie (I can't use my board on a weekend). After a few weeks to readjust to real rock, I've had a really good Spring for bouldering - ticking off loads of problems from my wish list, some of which had eluded me for near a decade. I think having more brief, targetted sessions has been beneficial - making gains from sessions, working replicas of my goals -specific and intense work but short enough not to destroy my ramshackle body.
Quote from: moose on April 23, 2021, 12:53:33 pmI've had a vaguely similar experience to Tom. My winters used to be mainly spent on long, weekend sessions at the Depot, usually playing on whatever reds and purples appealed. This last winter, with Covid19 and WFH, I fingerboarded and had brief midweek sessions on my woodie (I can't use my board on a weekend). After a few weeks to readjust to real rock, I've had a really good Spring for bouldering - ticking off loads of problems from my wish list, some of which had eluded me for near a decade. I think having more brief, targetted sessions has been beneficial - making gains from sessions, working replicas of my goals -specific and intense work but short enough not to destroy my ramshackle body.How much of your good spring is a factor of consistently good conditions on the crag and the removal of the distraction/temptation to go indoors instead? It may be that climbing indoors can be very beneficial to outdoor climbing, but in practice often ends up being less so, or even counterproductive. People end up doing less outdoor climbing when walls are open and being generally less fresh as they've probably had an indoor session not long before each outdoor session.I have friends who routinely use the flimsiest of weather pretexts to go indoors instead of out under normal circumstances. i imagine this is common. I expect focus and number of hours in a given climbing setting count for more than absolute measures of strength or fitness.
I fingerboarded and had brief midweek sessions on my woodie (I can't use my board on a weekend).
It may be that climbing indoors can be very beneficial to outdoor climbing, but in practice often ends up being less so, or even counterproductive.
Quote from: moose on April 23, 2021, 12:53:33 pmI fingerboarded and had brief midweek sessions on my woodie (I can't use my board on a weekend).Out of interest, how come? Creaky board bothering the neighbours?
Indoor grading seems pretty throwaway at best and usually inaccurate one way the other. Most predominantly outdoor climbers i think tend to just ignore indoor bouldering grades.
Lower grade (sub 6A) indoor stuff and the same grade outdoors tend to be very different. Indoors that means jugs. Outdoors that does not mean jugs at all.
I agree with Stu, but also find it funny how everyone is saying they get injured jumping around on blobs but not pulling hard on small holds on a board. Goes to show how individual these things are I guess, it's the opposite for me.