[Sidehaas]

Looks like Alex will be through with four tops. Max just did problem 2 as well - I think so far everyone who did that has gone on to four tops and looks like qualifying.

[Duma]

Yes! Go Alex! Look like 4 tops is pretty much the minimum to make semis

[Bradders]

Anyone know what happened to Molly T-S? Climbs 8B during the week, managed just one zone in the comp! Maybe she was tired.

[Duma]

Not sure how much relevance 8B has to bouldering comps these days. She had a disappointing qualification last weekend too.

Nice to see Janja "hoping for some hard stuff tomorrow" !

[205Chris]

Spoilers

NSFW  :

Looks like Janja got her wish.

Max qualifies for finals in 6th.

Shame we didn't get to see Alex on men's 2

[Fiend]

Semis got pretty exciting overall for a few reasons! Some great problems especially Ws. Psyched for the finals.   

[Coops_13]

Watched both finals live tonight, v impressive US display and good fun to watch

[monkey boy]

Spoilers

NSFW  :

Looks like Janja got her wish.

Max qualifies for finals in 6th.

Shame we didn't get to see Alex on men's 2

Alex took a while to figure the start of Men's 2 but got his hand on the finish hold but then ran out of time for another go. Great performance from Max and Alex.

[remus]

NSFW  :

janja in not-first shocker!! She is mortal.

[Steve R]

Good comp but not quite as good as it could've been due to the setting.  Men's slightly too easy in the semis with women's too hard. Then the reverse (over compensation?) in the final.  That said, lots of great moments, B Raboutou only woman managing that grim looking arse bar problem in the semis was good.  Shame there wasn't something hard in the final for Grossman and Garnbret to actually compete on rather than just attempts. A personal favourite little moment was S Gejo's reaction here: https://youtu.be/3yM1wjzE-ss?t=11690  surely a meme maker's dream.  Would've liked to have seen Ondra on the desperate looking techy ones that didn't get done in the final.   

[cheque]

Just checked the ifsc webpage and saw that Kiromal Katibin broke the world record in speed by quite a bit in the qualifiers in Salt Lake. 5.25 seconds compared to the old record of 5.48

Oh well, the record stood for a few hours until his landsman Leonardo Veddriq made a 5.21 s run in the finals.

This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? 

[GraemeA]

This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? 

Yes I did, it was pretty much bob on

The tolerance is +1.5/-0.5 and it was never more than 0.1 out

[tomtom]

This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? 

Yes I did, it was pretty much bob on

The tolerance is +1.5/-0.5 and it was never more than 0.1 out

At altitude. Less dense air - less drag 😁

[GraemeA]

This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? 

Yes I did, it was pretty much bob on

The tolerance is +1.5/-0.5 and it was never more than 0.1 out

At altitude. Less dense air - less drag 😁

Both of them were short arses. Less body mass, less drag.

[danm]

Do you also check the autobelays to see if they have a secret motor built in, like they do on the bikes on Le Tour etc?

[Fiend]

Well, the balance wrt M/W finals was bolloxed, but the climbing was very good, some great movements indeed. The level of climber/crowd psyche was great too. Good watching, cheers IFSC.

[joel182]

The IFSC has apparently issued a copyright claim against the small time youtube channel BoulderingHighlights that had been making highlight videos of the World Cups since the first Salt Lake City round this year.

Their videos had been very popular pulling in way more views than the official IFSC highlights, and in Speed Cup more views than the official livestream.

I hope some arrangement is reached. Issuing copyright claims against community creators does not seem like the right thing to do here.

[danm]

Whose content is it? Are they editing footage shot by the IFSC or shooting their own?

[joel182]

They are editing footage from the IFSC livestream.

[abarro81]

Not surprised then tbh.. YouTube is a revenue stream nowadays innit

[Teaboy]

I hope an arrangement is sorted out too but the defences that have been put forward by their supporters seems pretty weak, it seems to boik down to two things. Either ‘they should be allowed to use it because they only use the best bits of footage they have nicked’ or ‘They are making more money from the Ifsc official footage than the ifsc are’

[danm]

If it's IFSC footage, then it's theft plain and simple, regardless of how good a job they are doing. Who pays for the film makers to travel? Just about the only valid rationale I can see for it is if the IFSC are doing such a poor job at it that these guys want to show them that they can do it better and deserve a contract to do it for the IFSC.

[teestub]

If it's IFSC footage, then it's theft plain and simple, regardless of how good a job they are doing. Who pays for the film makers to travel?

This.
I remember Ondra used to use footage for his vlogs which seemed fair game as it was him climbing, but they put a stop to that too.

[Bradders]

Shauna quitting after the Olympics. Not really a massive surprise, seems injuries have taken their toll physically and no doubt mentally.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQEcSWyB9f4/?utm_medium=copy_link

[Dexter]

I hope an arrangement is sorted out too but the defences that have been put forward by their supporters seems pretty weak, it seems to boik down to two things. Either ‘they should be allowed to use it because they only use the best bits of footage they have nicked’ or ‘They are making more money from the Ifsc official footage than the ifsc are’

Seems like they should sue them for copyright then straight after give them a job making their highlight videos.