Anderson hangs for shorter power endurance routes are excellent.
What type of routes do you need the fitness for? This will make a huge difference on how you train.
Thanks all. Mainly for trad really.I've done 400m of ladder climbing (wind turbines) in the last 3 days, front 2 and back 3 today for extra impact.
You'll be absolutely annihilated afterwards but it's amazing fitness training.
Jeez, so 64 problems in total?!
Mischa - that sounds brutal. I might try to set some problems at that level tonight and give it a go next week.I've been wondering similar about getting a bit fitter for routes this summer.I'm really bad at structured things (low motivation) so I've been trying to incorporate it into short board sessions where I'm not trying hard problems. I've been doing a circuit (pretty easy - fine to warm up on) and then climbing it into a boulder problem (kind of level where I'd expect to get it first go each time now) and then rejoining the circuit after the boulder and doing another lap. So kind of romp-crux-romp. I also think about how I'm way fitter at the end of a 1-2 week sport trip where I've just been having some redpoints and doing a bunch of flash/onsighting.I wondered about doing a board "trip". So every few days just going for maximal effort every 45 mins or something whilst working. Either do the circuit and just keep going until I fall off, or doing similar with foot on campusing. Just going for max means no thought is needed each time, and going for max also means it'll only take a short time before I'm completely boxed and can resume work.No idea what this would train or how effective it would be relative to something more structured but it would be interesting to hear any thoughts.
Define a circuit between 20 and 30 moves. The movement and holds should simulate thestyle of climb you are currently trying or want to try. Define 1-2 moderate to goodrests, ideally including sub-optimal positions such as a single heel hook for feet or one bad hold, one goodhold, or a good hold with bad feet.The difficulty of the circuit should be at or slightly above onsight. This means you shouldarrive at the rest pumped, and have to recover significantly before continuing.Pull onto the circuit and complete one lap. Recover in the rest for as long as youneed too, making sure to maximise regeneration. Attempt a second lap, climbinguntil failure.3-5 sets depending on skin and psyche with 15 mins rest between sets