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Hippocampus, Stanage (Read 1556 times)

remus

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Hippocampus, Stanage
March 21, 2021, 10:04:33 pm
Hippocampus. The sit start overhanging arete right next to help the young. It's short but climbs really nicely, campusing off your bum to place the toe hook and is well worth doing. It needs a strong downgrade though from the 7C given. It's no harder than 7B with the toe hook, maybe even 7A+...

I wonder whether this might be a height thing? As a shorter gent I thought getting the toe in was desperate, and even trying to do the move off the toe felt hard. Im no DG toe hook wizard though so maybe my skills are just lacking.

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#1 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 21, 2021, 10:26:18 pm
Hippocampus. The sit start overhanging arete right next to help the young. It's short but climbs really nicely, campusing off your bum to place the toe hook and is well worth doing. It needs a strong downgrade though from the 7C given. It's no harder than 7B with the toe hook, maybe even 7A+...

I wonder whether this might be a height thing? As a shorter gent I thought getting the toe in was desperate, and even trying to do the move off the toe felt hard. Im no DG toe hook wizard though so maybe my skills are just lacking.

For the start I pull off my bum with no feet on into a deadhang off the crimps then sort of front lever a bit to reach the toe hook. It does need full engagement of the toe hooking muscles to keep it locked in though! I think my height helped the next part a lot when it came to bumping left hand up the arete.

cheque

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#2 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 21, 2021, 11:01:46 pm
S - Stanage Plantation.

 :wave: I’m the bloke who pointed you towards Help the Young.

Where’s Hippocampus given 7C? I’m completely out of date with bouldering but it’s 7B in the Vertebrate book and V8 in the BMC one.

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#3 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 22, 2021, 07:03:32 am
Where’s Hippocampus given 7C? I’m completely out of date with bouldering but it’s 7B in the Vertebrate book and V8 in the BMC one.

On UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_plantation-101/hippocampus-437779

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#4 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 22, 2021, 07:59:59 am
Where’s Hippocampus given 7C? I’m completely out of date with bouldering but it’s 7B in the Vertebrate book and V8 in the BMC one.

On UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_plantation-101/hippocampus-437779

Hi Cheque, I should have known better than to trust UKC! 

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#5 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 23, 2021, 09:10:20 am
Quote from: Liamhutch89

Hippocampus. The sit start overhanging arete right next to help the young. It's short but climbs really nicely, campusing off your bum to place the toe hook and is well worth doing. It needs a strong downgrade though from the 7C given. It's no harder than 7B with the toe hook, maybe even 7A+...

When Iain first climbed this it was without the toehook and basically went up the rhs. He ended up getting the high dish with his left then campusing for the top I think (hence the name). Deffo feels like 7C to me that way.
It also seems that a fair number of ascents now are not from an actual sit start. Starting fully sat with your feet on the ramp on the right adds some tricky climbing, not sure if it pushes the toehook way to 7C though. Either way the difficulty is very much dependant on reach.
It'd be good to see the original reclimbed. They seem sufficiently distinct to me for the new beta to be called Hippocampus Lefthand and get it's own grade.

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#6 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 23, 2021, 09:44:01 am
Quote from: Liamhutch89

Hippocampus. The sit start overhanging arete right next to help the young. It's short but climbs really nicely, campusing off your bum to place the toe hook and is well worth doing. It needs a strong downgrade though from the 7C given. It's no harder than 7B with the toe hook, maybe even 7A+...

When Iain first climbed this it was without the toehook and basically went up the rhs. He ended up getting the high dish with his left then campusing for the top I think (hence the name). Deffo feels like 7C to me that way.
It also seems that a fair number of ascents now are not from an actual sit start. Starting fully sat with your feet on the ramp on the right adds some tricky climbing, not sure if it pushes the toehook way to 7C though. Either way the difficulty is very much dependant on reach.
It'd be good to see the original reclimbed. They seem sufficiently distinct to me for the new beta to be called Hippocampus Lefthand and get it's own grade.

Thanks for the clarification. The way I did it seemed fine from a full sit with obvious starting holds, so having 2 lines makes sense. I did it off a 2 pad stack, but this was just because I didn't have anywhere else to put my 2nd pad. I tested the sit start moves off 1 pad afterwards and this didn't make much difference for me, but I suspect 2 pads would be needed without my lank. Here's a video below for anyone interested in trying it:



PS. Am I right in thinking Reborn Again at Bradley Edge is your FA? I'd like to try this on my next venture to the Peak, is it difficult to find? It actually looks similar in style to Brass Monekys.

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#7 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 23, 2021, 10:28:35 am
I couldn't reach the crimp from sitting off one pad. It's a tricky setup if you start on the lower break with feet out right =on the ramp.
No idea where the upgrade from 7B to 7C arose from. Like Mike says it's 7B in the VG guide.

I messaged Iain about it:
"Yes, full sit, feet out right. It actually climbs the front face following the line of the arete. pretty much. I think it only uses one hold on the arete."

Needs a re-ascent this way to confirm the grade I guess. And the new beta could do with a defined start position, otherwise the grade is even more related to how tall you are and pad thickness.

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#8 Re: Hippocampus, Stanage
March 23, 2021, 10:32:46 am
For Reborn Again - From the normal Bradley parking follow the footpath/track all the way to the bottom of the woods. At this point break right off it and follow the uphill side of the wall right/eastward for 200m. then head back uphill via a vague path/gully to arrive at the left side of the crag (Bradley tor). This slightly convoluted approach is to avoid access issues which have arose in the past using more direct ways in.

 

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