[shark]

Think I’m probably a bit slow on the uptake with this gizmo.

Be interested to hear how people have used it and how useful it’s been re:

- identifying weak points
- for benchmarking
- to use in actual training

Also are there alternative gizmos or methods of monitoring which achieve the same thing?

[gollum]

Use one for benchmarking predominately and think it very useful for that.

Training wise, seem to be able to use it for recruitment/velocity type pulls as can see how long it takes to pull and then how long am holding the pull for. Although, not convinced by these as training methods quite yet.

Not sure how this will all translate into being useful outside, as only had it during lockdowns and, also, reckon that I am a long way from using it to it’s potential.

Also, just remembered that it was useful in measuring how much a pulley system was actually taking off, which as led me to using an actual pulley much more often rather than just throwing a sling over a bar.

[peewee]

I've had one over 6 months now, got crusher to make me a hold to hang off it with a 20 and 18mm edge. Found it very good for benchmarking at the start of a session during warming. Had it plotted on a spreadsheet and can see peaks and troughs in strength. They have correlated with good and bad board sessions and can better measure weaknesses in grip types/arm position etc.

[shark]

Thanks guys. All sounds pretty useful

[duncan]

Not seen the Tindeq itself but have used a DIY equivalent in a series of shoulder pain projects (visualising the subacromial space with ultrasound under different loading conditions). I think this is an interesting area to look at in climbing performance measurement. Bluetooth load cells are cheap as chips so it comes down to how good/easy-to-use the Tindeq software is for the money.

[tomtom]

I had a look a few weeks/months ago at Bluetooth load cells - and from what I found they were not that cheap - abs the Tindeq wasn’t mega expensive compared to others.

But - I may well have been looking for the wrong thing etc... the right keyword may have led me somewhere else.

[Oldmanmatt]

Is the Tindeq available easily in the UK? Or is it only US?

[gollum]

IIRC it comes from Norway, think mine arrived within a week.

[Oldmanmatt]

IIRC it comes from Norway, think mine arrived within a week.

Was that pre-Brexshit?

I just ordered one and I wonder if it will arrive with a tax bill...

I noticed that, when I opened the cart, it totalled $175, until I updated with the shipping address and it dropped to $140 (so dropped VAT I assume).

Edit:

Should be good as it’s value is less than £135 (unless the dollar has been uber awkward this week).

[tomtom]

Post up a report when you get it Matt? I’ve a friend who’s interested (honest) 😁

[gollum]

IIRC it comes from Norway, think mine arrived within a week.

Was that pre-Brexshit?

I just ordered one and I wonder if it will arrive with a tax bill...

I noticed that, when I opened the cart, it totalled $175, until I updated with the shipping address and it dropped to $140 (so dropped VAT I assume).

Edit:

Should be good as it’s value is less than £135 (unless the dollar has been uber awkward this week).

Yep, it was pre~Brexit, which meant no particular delays in some port on the Easy coast and no additional taxes.

Overall cost me £102 when converted to Sterling and did do thing where shipping costs fell.

Hope you find it useful.

[duncan]

I had a look a few weeks/months ago at Bluetooth load cells - and from what I found they were not that cheap - abs the Tindeq wasn’t mega expensive compared to others.

But - I may well have been looking for the wrong thing etc... the right keyword may have led me somewhere else.

I was the ultrasound guy. A great lab technician and keen students sorted out the electronics. I’m just going on what they said!

There is a whole bunch of geeky stuff to do - or has been done for all I know - looking at rate of decay of force production, speed of onset of contraction, percentage muscle recruitment (Electrically stimulating a muscle twitch as the muscle is contracting voluntarily. Unpleasant, don’t volunteer for this!). Theoretically this seems like it might have good application to climbing though I’m no muscle physiologist.

[Oldmanmatt]

IIRC it comes from Norway, think mine arrived within a week.

Was that pre-Brexshit?

I just ordered one and I wonder if it will arrive with a tax bill...

I noticed that, when I opened the cart, it totalled $175, until I updated with the shipping address and it dropped to $140 (so dropped VAT I assume).

Edit:

Should be good as it’s value is less than £135 (unless the dollar has been uber awkward this week).

Yep, it was pre~Brexit, which meant no particular delays in some port on the Easy coast and no additional taxes.

Overall cost me £102 when converted to Sterling and did do thing where shipping costs fell.

Hope you find it useful.

Ooph!

You got ripped off!

Mine cost £101.62. 😝

So far...

[tomtom]

IIRC it comes from Norway, think mine arrived within a week.

Was that pre-Brexshit?

I just ordered one and I wonder if it will arrive with a tax bill...

I noticed that, when I opened the cart, it totalled $175, until I updated with the shipping address and it dropped to $140 (so dropped VAT I assume).

Edit:

Should be good as it’s value is less than £135 (unless the dollar has been uber awkward this week).

Yep, it was pre~Brexit, which meant no particular delays in some port on the Easy coast and no additional taxes.

Overall cost me £102 when converted to Sterling and did do thing where shipping costs fell.

Hope you find it useful.

Ooph!

You got ripped off!

Mine cost £101.62. 😝

So far...

£20 vat bill on arrival id wager. Unless they labelled the form as “free sample”

[Oldmanmatt]

Just arrived, by DHL (I didn’t pay for any “special” shipping).

No bill, VAT or otherwise.

Shall take it for a test run later, got an appointment with number 4 child (who doesn’t return to school until Thursday) and some quality time charging down steep slopes in the woods on an MTB, right now.

[Duma]

not a tindeq, but I bought a sweater from snap (in france) in early jan - they refunded me the VAT but there was a charge for customs cleareance - no vat or charges at this end

[Oldmanmatt]

It’s alright, init.

It will be useful.

I actually tried to make something similar, many bunches of moons ago now.



A 25 and 18 mm campus rung on a moving board, hooked onto an anchored load cell.
I was trying to build up to one armers and figured, if I could generate 2xBW on a 25 mm edge, with two arms, I would be getting close to being able to pull BW with one.
I’d added a toe hook bar, to pull against and made the frame height adjustable. I had a real problem finding a load cell sensitive enough, or rather in the right range, micro and 1 tonne plus being easily obtainable but hard put to find something that would cover 20-200kg, or so.
This one certainly worked, but nobody could ever hold it long enough or steadily enough for the meter dwell to catch. So we had to have a second person to read and “assess” peak load.
Just not good enough to be really useful.

Anyway, this Tindeq is perfect for this and worked straight out of the box. I only had a half hour to play around today. So I kept it simple and did a quick assessment of my proximity to a one armer now.
So when I built my rig in 2015, I weighed 78.something kg and after around four months specific training, I could manage 3 one armers on each side and pull ~ 2 x BW on my rig.
These days my expensive bathroom scales tell me I weigh 83.3 kg, naked, first thing in the morning, so I figured it would be a good place to start.

How far off a one armer am I today?

(Secretly, I felt I wasn’t all that far off. Pride, is a totally delusional  bitch, of course).

It took a full five minutes to rig and test. I used a rockring for simplicity. Did a two arm deadhang, to establish my fully clothed and shod weight.
(Fuck. I mean really. I knew I hit 90 over Xmas, but I’ve been running, working out and watching my food for two and a bit months. Must have been all the money in my pockets).

A two armed pull up, just to see what peak load that actually generated. I’m not sure that is truly accurate as a target figure to complete a one arm pull, as I suspect that load was actually hit as I reached the nadir of my descent and arrested the drop. Unfortunately, though the app will graph live readings, I’ve yet to sus if recording those graphed results is possible. The peak load just gives a figure.
Still, ultimately I wasn’t too far off with my right arm.
I can’t quite one arm the three finger slot on the rockring, at the moment and since my right pinky is in a splint, I didn’t see any point in using the four finger slot. I also didn’t see using the jug as worthwhile, as that would just end up with me weighing myself again...

Hopefully, that means the force generated/peak load, I could achieve on a bar, should be higher than I hit on the test.



Me being me, I didn’t do it in order...

I don’t think I am a long way off a one armer. I rather suspect, if I wasn’t so lardy, I still mange one per arm now.

Sat listening to Vivaldi and playing with the export functions now.

[IS2]

Not Tindeq but I bought an Entralpi force plate just before the current lockdown. Imported from Canada so fairly expensive when postage and import duties added.
Initially was a faff as it is particularl about which devices it will interface with but works very well once that is sorted. It is basically a set of scales Bluetooth linked to phone, tablet or lap top. I use it with a 20mm door frame sanded to make a nice edge.
I use it for single hand hangs, as it obviously stops working if you lift off with two hand pulls. ( can add a weight vest to stop that being a problem but part of its appeal is not messing about with weights ).
So far been doing max hangs with it and seen steady progress each week. I started doing a couple of aerobic sessions each week a couple of weeks ago 40 5s 35% max force pulls per hand alternating hands. Initially this felt like I was getting really pumped but now feels easy. One feature of the software is you can easily build your own workouts alongside the ones they provide. So I’m about to design a critical force test and do that during next deload week... then talk to my coach about designing more specific endurance workouts for the return to the crag.
There is a Facebook group to share stuff and you can see the type of data it will produce ... e.g. max force, average force, strain ( force time) and rate of force production.
Cons... flippin expensive and fussy to get interfaced
Pros ... masses of data ..if you like that sort of thing all of which can be exported for analysis, much easier than pulley and weights faff, easy to set up in the house rather than freezing bum off in the garage.
Happy to respond to any questions

[IS2]

There is also a device and board from “climbro.com” ... looks very promising but It is about 680€ But you can spread the amount over various payment plans... Eva Lopez has reviewed it favourablely recently. I was thinking about buying one but emailed them asking about carriage and delivery and drew a blank so given the cost I have not chased it up.